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When you say "segmented " do you mean the turbo style with the grooves on the side of the blade ? Or the ones with notches cut into the cutting edge of the blade .
Actually "segmented" means the cutting portion of the blade is made of segments. You can have a segmented blade of nearly any size. They may or may not be thick like the one Jim loves above.
The "super grinder" we discuss is originally an affordableway to make a grinding wheel using stacked common cutting blades.
Jim's does this buy starting out real thick. No stacking required.
Once again jamesp finds a novel and effective process. No doubt his mother had an easy childbirth do to his innate abilities. 💪. 🍻
That's what I was thinking . The Hot Dog blade I use on the tile saw is segmented , notches in the rim . Would you call the turbo grinding blades continuous rim ? Or maybe something like segmented continuous rim . They are wet or dry rated and cheaper , so I was thinking of using those . I really want to get 1 1/2 - 2 " of width .
Actually "segmented" means the cutting portion of the blade is made of segments. You can have a segmented blade of nearly any size. They may or may not be thick like the one Jim loves above.
The "super grinder" we discuss is originally an affordableway to make a grinding wheel using stacked common cutting blades.
Jim's does this buy starting out real thick. No stacking required.
Once again jamesp finds a novel and effective process. No doubt his mother had an easy childbirth do to his innate abilities. 💪. 🍻
That's what I was thinking . The Hot Dog blade I use on the tile saw is segmented , notches in the rim . Would you call the turbo grinding blades continuous rim ? Or maybe something like segmented continuous rim . They are wet or dry rated and cheaper , so I was thinking of using those . I really want to get 1 1/2 - 2 " of width .
No specific knowledge of brands. I wouldn't call continuous rim segmented. No spaces. Those are "sintered".
2" wide? The wider you go, the more force you need to cut, the more horsepower you need to stay effective. Large surface area and effective grinds will bog lower horsepower implementation.
That's what I was thinking . The Hot Dog blade I use on the tile saw is segmented , notches in the rim . Would you call the turbo grinding blades continuous rim ? Or maybe something like segmented continuous rim . They are wet or dry rated and cheaper , so I was thinking of using those . I really want to get 1 1/2 - 2 " of width .
No specific knowledge of brands. I wouldn't call continuous rim segmented. No spaces. Those are "sintered".
2" wide? The wider you go, the more force you need to cut, the more horsepower you need to stay effective. Large surface area and effective grinds will bog lower horsepower implementation.
Agree 100% 2" is wider than I want . Get this idea bigger is better sometimes , point taken . Okay , so would the sintered blades be a good choice on a grinder ? Another question , have any idea what rpm pillow block bearings are rated for ? Or is 1725 fast enough for 7" blades on a SG
Yes, at first I wanted wide faces. 3/4 wide does a good job for all around. It depends on what shape you are going for and the shape of the rock you have.
The most important factor I have found is an unknown, the sharpness and size of the diamonds. Along with the hardness of the matrix for longevity.
2 out of 6 sinterings I have used had very sharp diamonds. Ate rock with low pressure. Low pressure is way safer. Lasts longer. The sharper diamonds are more likely to remove a little flesh. But a rock breaking or slipping out of grip when you are having to bear down hard due to dull diamonds on any wheel can cause worse injury.
A 1/4 radius contour bit is in my sight that would do 2 or 3 inch spheres. Like this but sintered(this one has brazed diamonds):
Agree 100% 2" is wider than I want . Get this idea bigger is better sometimes , point taken . Okay , so would the sintered blades be a good choice on a grinder ? Another question , have any idea what rpm pillow block bearings are rated for ? Or is 1725 fast enough for 7" blades on a SG
manofglass has this replacement for pillow block bearings. Just drill alligned holes through hardwood!
I seem to remember using a LDPE (low density polyethylene) sheet which was 1/16" thick. I cut out a rough circle maybe 3 inches in diameter and then drilled a hole in the center for the shaft. I can take a couple of better pictures once I get home.
The spacer was not as rough as I remembered. I don't remember spending much time on them though.
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Members with real questions or comments that need an actual response, please post on the main forum - not here! Casual PG-13 posts only, no politics or religion please!
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Welcome to the Rock Tumbling Hobby Forum where we share a love of rocks and a sense of community as enduring as the stones we polish.
The RTH Forum of www.RockTumbling.com is an Amazon Associate site and we earn money from
qualifying purchases you make after clicking on our links such as this
Rock Tumbling Supplies on Amazon
link for instance, or any of our various product ads and banners. By clicking our links every time you begin your Amazon shopping
experience, you are generating a bit of revenue for the forum which helps us cover our expenses. Thank you for your support!