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Post by Pat on Jan 15, 2017 15:24:38 GMT -5
My old faithful 4" tile saw suddenly developed a problem; it turns off by itself. Over and over.
Is this fixable? Is it dying? Is it dead?
Thanks.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2017 18:06:41 GMT -5
Probably something causing it to overheat and the thermal prot ction switch turning it off. Has anything changed recently? BTw the answer is yes. We and all our gear are dying. Slowly and at unpredictable times.  |
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 15, 2017 18:38:35 GMT -5
If you can access the motor see if it has brushes. What brand is it? The switch could be faulty. See if motor shaft has play (moves up/down or back/forth/ If so probably bad bearings and time to replace saw.
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Post by Pat on Jan 15, 2017 19:16:38 GMT -5
johnjsgems I cannot access the motor, and I see no access point for brushes Brand: Plasplugs Diamond Wheel Tile Cutter, 1/2 horsepower 2600rpm Product Code DWW101
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Post by Pat on Jan 15, 2017 19:19:02 GMT -5
@shotgunner Nothing has changed. Overheating theory sounds plausible, but I had only trimmed one cab (Burro Creek lavender) and had just begin the palm root.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483 
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Post by ziggy on Jan 15, 2017 19:38:18 GMT -5
My old faithful 4" tile saw suddenly developed a problem; it turns off by itself. Over and over. Is this fixable? Is it dying? Is it dead? Thanks. Does it do it at regular intervals or just stop unpredictably? If at regular intervals and you need to let it cool down before it restarts I would ditto what shotgunner said. If it does it just whenever it could be a loose wire or bad connection in the circuit. Does it come back on by itself too? If it comes back on by itself after a short cool off it is almost certainly thermal stoppage. Why would that shutting off condition develop suddenly? Normally it wouldn't and I would think the thermal overload circuit is messed up if the motor isn't hot to the touch. Knowing exactly the way it acts when shutting down and how you get it to come back on matters as it could be something as simple as a worn on off switch. |
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Post by Pat on Jan 15, 2017 19:55:42 GMT -5
ziggy I'll check out your questions. First time it turned off, I checked to see if it were still plugged in. Yes. Turned it back on. Stopped. Repeat. The on intervals got smaller faster. More off than on time. That's when I quit. Motor is entirely enclosed. I did not think to feel the plastic on the bottom.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Jan 15, 2017 20:00:23 GMT -5
ziggy I'll check out your questions. First time it turned off, I checked to see if it were still plugged in. Yes. Turned it back on. Stopped. Repeat. The on intervals got smaller faster. More off than on time. That's when I quit. Motor is entirely enclosed. I did not think to feel the plastic on the bottom. Ewwww. That doesn't sound real good. Does it free spin to a stop? Or does it stop like the brakes were put on? Free spin would be good. Some motors have built in brakes but not usually 1/2 HP ones (some circular saws and radial arm saws are the exception to that.) If it stops like the brakes were applied but it is not a braked motor, it is probably a bad ball bearing or more likely, sleeve bearing. The shorter and shorter run time thing sounds like bearing issues. Also I am guessing by looking at the design of that unit that it is a direct drive from motor to saw blade with no belts or pulleys. If I am wrong on that, it would be another thing to look at. I can't see how they could fit in stuff like that in that saw though. |
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Post by Pat on Jan 15, 2017 20:09:23 GMT -5
Just checked to a few things. Turned on well, removed thumb, and it quit. Off button would not move. Hit on again and it turned on. Removed thumb and it stopped.
Sounds like a switch issue.
Blade kept spinning. No brake.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Jan 15, 2017 20:12:46 GMT -5
Just checked to a few things. Turned on well, removed thumb, and it quit. Off button would not move. Hit on again and it turned on. Removed thumb and it stopped. Sounds like a switch issue. Blade kept spinning. No brake. Yep. By golly I think you've got it. Easy fix. Switches fail often. Can be little buggers to figure out. |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2017 20:16:12 GMT -5
Just checked to a few things. Turned on well, removed thumb, and it quit. Off button would not move. Hit on again and it turned on. Removed thumb and it stopped. Sounds like a switch issue. Blade kept spinning. No brake. Easy peasy electrical fix. Both you and ziggy nailed it! |
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Post by Pat on Jan 15, 2017 20:18:05 GMT -5
Yes, it was ziggy who nailed it. I'd almost rather eat a bug than fix it!  Should add that it is Plasplug from England. Can't find any US outlets. |
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Jan 15, 2017 20:34:50 GMT -5
Yes, it was ziggy who nailed it. I'd almost rather eat a bug than fix it! Should add that it is Plasplug from England. Can't find any US outlets. I was looking at the switch they used but the picture was not the best quality. Is it a split switch? With a separate button for on and off? Is it a single push to start/push to stop single button switch? Or, is it a rocker on/off switch? I see it has an indicator light built in. All three can be replaced with american stuff if the switch and switch mount isn't too proprietary and custom made. |
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Jan 15, 2017 20:41:44 GMT -5
Found a different picture and it looks like it is a square style Push on/push off with a light or a lighted rocker under a clear cover. Looks like two phillips head screws hold it in. Make sure it's unplugged and take the switch out to see if there is something obviously wrong with it.
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Post by Pat on Jan 15, 2017 20:49:39 GMT -5
Will do. It is a square covered with plastic. Rocker. Thanks.
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Post by wigglinrocks on Jan 15, 2017 20:53:25 GMT -5
I would by-pass the switch and put an in line switch in the cord
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Jan 15, 2017 21:02:37 GMT -5
I would by-pass the switch and put an in line switch in the cord wigglinrocks' idea of dropping the bad switch would work. Not a bad idea if you can't get the right rocker to fit. Plan B. As long as you know what wires will make the circuit live when joined you could tape them up and drop that switch altogether. The indicator light wire can be taped off and left unused. |
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Post by Pat on Jan 15, 2017 21:14:28 GMT -5
I've contacted Plasplug. Will see what they have to say.
Will undo switch tomorrow. Appreciate all the knowledgeable suggestions.
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Mark K
Cave Dweller 
Member since April 2012
Posts: 2,819 
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Post by Mark K on Jan 15, 2017 21:44:28 GMT -5
Just remember that you are working with water. Few things are as fun as getting set on your ass.
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Post by Pat on Jan 16, 2017 15:46:03 GMT -5
Switch push button was the problem. Traded it for another. Didn't do the cord style switch for safety reasons. Now it hums along beautifully. stoner. Ed fixed it. Appreciate the education from all of you, and to Ed stoner for the work. I'm back in business 😀 |
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