LORTONE LS12 Unveiling Dilemmas

I'm always up for suggestions Capt'n!!! I'll do that today!! Great idea btw cause I can't stand being in the middle of something, having a hiccup and having to wait on a part!!

You want a v-belt pulley. The one shown has a set screw to lock against a flat surface on the motor shaft. You will want to know the diameter to determine the speed of the belt relative to the motor's rpms.

I got confused by Peruano's explanation regarding knowing the size of the pulley you need so as to know the speed of the belt, probably not alone here. You need to know the size of the pulley to purchase as it has an effect on the speed of what you are driving with the motor. Speed of the belt is moot. A pulley the same size on the motor as on the driven shaft means the driven shaft runs at motor speed. Smaller on motor than driven runs the driven shaft slower than motor, larger runs the driven shaft faster than motor. Basic math, divide diameter of "driven" by diameter of "drive", and motor speed by result of that to get speed of driven shaft.

If my motor cunningly does just the right revs, is it not simply the case that I need a v-belt pulley at the same diameter as the motor's pulley wheel? Then the grinding wheels will do just the same revs?

Will check the link. Thank you.

Everything that Quartz said is correct. Perhaps I didn't explain my meaning adequately, but the only reason for changing the size of a pulley on either end is because it causes more or less belt to be moved per revolution of the machine. Hence the belt will go faster or slower in terms of inches per second or whatever speed units you want to use resulting in a change in the rpms at the other end. I used to teach children how to understand multispeed bicycles (same principles but easier to change combinations so people could understand what was the result), but I didn't try to do it over the internet at 0600 in 25 words or less. The concept is particularly important when setting up saws because a big saw blade's outside circumference (cutting surface) is going by the rock at a much faster linear speed than a small saw blade's cutting surface. Hence we often slow down the rpms on the blade end of a big saw, but not so much on a small saw, even tho we started out with a motor on the other end that had the same rpms. I just didn't want the OP to get to the store and have the clerk ask "What size pulley did you want"? without being prepared to answer.

But change the other pulley (motor side), which is the one being purchased, and the belt speed changes with every pulley size change. Go figure.

Time to mess that purdy new saw up a bit. I need to send you some banded iron to really muck things up!

I've never heard of dressing a new blade before. You read somewhere you are supposed to do that?

Don't know if you saw my last post on the previous page as you were probably typing out the above when I posted.

But I have another question - what are you using to glue your rocks to the wood?
I have never had the courage to do that rock-glue-wood thing. Know people do so all the time, but I have nightmarish visions of the rock popping off the wood and ruining my day. Being a tumbler, I've never needed that last slab or two. End cuts can be fed to the tumblers in my world.

I've used waterglass for a long time to attach rocks to wood for cutting, but only after I've established a flat surface to glue after taking a cut or more and cleaning the piece. Never had one pop off. I put them in boiling water and they come loose in no more than 5 minutes, Goodwill hotplate works great.