zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Apr 20, 2017 20:49:15 GMT -5
I decided to make a magnetic polisher to help polish jewelry and larger bronze sculptures but buying a large enough polisher would cost hundreds to thousands of bucks. So instead here is my build. It works by spinning steel pins around inside a container. The pins hit the objects you put inside and polish it to a high shine finish. It does not erode the detail on the object and polishes very quickly. Here is the finished machine. Here is the cabinet that will house the motor. One side will function as a door for maintenance. I cut it out of two 3/4" thick, 24" wide x 48 long" boards from home depot. This is the piece of wood that the motor mounts onto. I cut it out with a hand held jig saw. This is the motor connected to the wood. This wood will be mounted inside the cabinet just like a shelf. This is a 12" steel arbor for a shopsmith with a piece of wood on top. I will mount the magnets above this. Added more photos:I added hinges I got them on ebay. The hinges are "Probrico 105º Full Overlay Self Close Concealed Hidden Face Frame Cabinet Hinges" they cost me $13 for four of them shipped. I also attached the plexiglass to the top of the cabinet with screws and moved the circuit board to the door so it is easily accessible in the future. Here is a video of it running without any paint and without any liquid in it.
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Apr 20, 2017 20:52:49 GMT -5
This is how I wired up the speed controller: I bought one "AC Line/Armature Fuse Block Kit" from ebay which consists of two fuse blocks suitable for any KBIC controller board. It uses 1/4” x 1-1/4” 3AG type fuses which I also got from ebay in the appropriate 5 amp "3AG 5A 312 250V LITTELFUSE" variety which I think are the correct rating for my 90v motor. I got a pack of 10, so I expect they will last me a longer than the motor/controller will last. Found this picture of how to wire the grounds up, basically exactly what you said, wire both to the frame. madmodder.net/index.php?topic=8391.0
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Apr 20, 2017 20:55:39 GMT -5
Got five of these "5x20mm 15A Slow-Blow Ceramic Fuse T15a 250v." The socket apparently takes "Fuse Size : 20 x 5mm / 0.8" x 0.2"(L*D)" according to the Walmart page for the socket. Got them from ebay of course: www.ebay.com/itm/5-Qty-5x20mm-15A-Slow-Blow-Ceramic-Fuse-T15a-250v-/400645212062?hash=item5d4850c79e:g:EJMAAMXQQtNRyd7aI assume T15a is the fuse type? Here are some pictures of the socket, I measured it and drew a little box where I wanted the hole. Then I drilled out as much of the wood as I could and then used my Dremel with a tungsten carbide bit to gouge out the wood into a rectangle shape. Then I used a file to tidy it all up until the socket fit snugly. And here it is pushed into place. Just need to paint the cabinet first, put the fuse in, wire it up and then I'll screw it into its final place. Finished wiring it up. This is how I did it. The switch works and everything. I didn't have a T splitter to make the connection for the white wire, so I drilled a tube connector and then stripped one of the wires and ran it through. Not sure if this is to code or whatever, but it seems to work well and protects the bare wire from touching anything. Got some cable fastener things and tidied up the wires inside the cabinet. Going to attach the speed knob to a metal plate in the front and maybe get a larger dial for it. This is the plug on the back all flush and in place. I'll prime and paint it soon with some latex paint. Perhaps 2 coats, maybe 3. Then I'll secure the plug in place and it should be ready to good. I cut a slot for a metal plate that I can mount the dial into (the wood isn't fancy enough to attach the dial into). It would be nice to find a dial to slide over the white plastic peg. Something to grab onto. Perhaps I'll buy one, if I can find one, or maybe cast one? Then I drilled, counter sunk and polished a piece of 1/8" steel plate I had lying around. I also reorganized the wires in cabinet a bit so the wires don't bump into the shelf when the door closes. Did a little more work on the dial area, polished the face plate up and bought a dial for the front. I also filled in 2 spots where I originally tried to attach different hinges. I'll add another coat of the wood filler stuff tomorrow then sand it down. Hopefully when it dries it will allow latex paint to stick to it. Then at some point I'll finally get around to painting it.
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Apr 20, 2017 20:56:36 GMT -5
I spray painted the inside white and primed the outside with 3 coats of primer (white latex Killz 2 primer). I'll be painting the outside cabinet with black latex paint soon. Look at that expert taping job! Magnets are from magnetics4less (part number: NB057-0-N48, qnty 4), mounted in staggered configuration N-S-N-S poles. (polarized through thickness, NOT LENGTHWISE) Motor (Ebay): 90VDC, 1/3HP (or less) is fine. Max RPM is 1750 Motor Controller (Ebay): K&B KBIC-120 Got the first coat of latex paint on the outside. I'll probably do 2 more to ensure a good finish. I'm unsure if clear epoxy will stick to the latex paint, but if it does I think I'll give it a final coat of it to give a nice slick looking finish.
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Apr 20, 2017 20:57:57 GMT -5
Here are some examples of before and after polishing. I just ran my first piece for about 10-15 mins. On the left is what the flower looked like before polishing, on the right is what it looks like after. The polish is fairly high for so little time in there. It also didn't dent or damage the piece in any way. I'm quite impressed with it so far. I'm running 2 more flowers now, then I'll run my little plant and see how it turns out. I think that this polisher is going to turn out to have been well worth it. After an hour and a half in the polisher: Before the polisher (actually I did an acid bath after this picture, before I put it in the polisher but I forgot to take a pic of it!!)
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Deleted
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Member since January 1970
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Post by Deleted on Apr 20, 2017 22:09:37 GMT -5
I dont understand the action. Got a video of it working?
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Post by fantastic5 on Apr 21, 2017 8:17:07 GMT -5
I dont understand the action. Got a video of it working? @shotgunner he very first video (first image at the beginning of the thread) shows it running. zapins - love the build and your tutorial is truly fantastic. Thanks for sharing!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 21, 2017 8:38:28 GMT -5
Thanks Ann. Tommy needs to see this one. zapins Nice build. You are a craftsman with vision. I see how it works. But don't understand why it works. Why do tiny pins banging on the surface not cause a pitted frosted effect?
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Apr 22, 2017 2:34:21 GMT -5
I'm not sure, but I think it is because the pins are so low mass that they don't really dent the surface very much at all. Also, after spinning the pins around in the chamber the points dull and aren't sharp so they don't dig into the piece.
I have noticed that silver hardens up considerably once it has been polished in the machine. Probably because of the millions of impacts that slowly work hardens the surface. This helps for very thin castings like the orchid flowers and the aquarium plants.
The pins manage to find their way into every nook and cranny. Into places that can't be polished by hand at all.
I used some detergent soap to help lubricate the water and a little splash of ammonia.
After running the pins for a while the water tends to become murky with steel dust. It takes a few rinses with ammonia and running the polisher for a few minutes and repeat flushing to clean the dust off the pins and surface of the container. This has to be done fairly regularly to ensure the dust doesn't coat silver stuff. Also the faster the machine spins the more dust is made so I usually run it at around 2/3 of max speed.
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Post by toiv0 on Apr 22, 2017 5:34:34 GMT -5
I like this build, I have seen the smaller ones at rio on close out and I couldn't afford one even pennies on a dollar. I just scavanged 4 dc motors 3 gear boxes and 2 motor controllers. I was glad to see how you hooked up the motor controller, I had a good idea on how to do it but your pics were a lot clearer than the vision in my brain. Thanks for all of this and great build.
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Deleted
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Member since January 1970
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2017 18:03:15 GMT -5
I can visualise the pins in tiny nooks and crannies doing their work.
Thanks for the knowledge about keeping the solution clean. I'll bet some of the black is silver nitrate from the ammonia. Perhaps another way to increase pH?
Fantastic build. Looks like a finished product. That is a goal of mine that you have helped push me to work harder on. Thank you!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2017 18:08:45 GMT -5
zapinsAnd BTW How about a tute for casting orchids and other delicate organic stuff!?!?!?!
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Apr 23, 2017 0:42:35 GMT -5
Interesting thought about silver nitrate causing the discoloration. That could be one possibility.
Thanks. The orchids and organic castings are pretty easy to do. I use a centrifugal casting machine with jewelry investment. I can probably post photos of that setup, but there isn't much to it really. Pretty simple & easy.
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Apr 23, 2017 21:00:24 GMT -5
Awesome build! Well done, sir.
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