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Post by Jugglerguy on Jun 14, 2017 20:59:49 GMT -5
After five years of continuous running, my Lortone 33B motor finally quit. There was a power outage that didn't help. I've ordered one of those GCFIs that were discussed recently that need to be restarted after a power loss. It also ruined the shafts on my QT66. I'm not sure what happened exactly, but the rubber on the shafts was melted off on the ends where the metal lid rides. The rubber was all gummy and actually missing at the very ends. Weird. Anyhow, I was wondering if there is a good way to remove the crimped on wire connectors. There is very little wire on the inside of the motor box. The little plastic thing that protects the cord as it goes through the hole looks like it's not made to be removed, so I can't just cut the crimp off and use more of the cord wire. I suppose I could start cutting the plastic off the crimp and then pry it open, but I thought there might be a better way. Any ideas?  |
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Post by wigglinrocks on Jun 14, 2017 21:05:25 GMT -5
Could cut the wires off the motor and crimp those onto the new wires .
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Post by Jugglerguy on Jun 14, 2017 21:15:12 GMT -5
Could cut the wires off the motor and crimp those onto the new wires . I hadn't thought of that, but I could. I'd rather keep things a little more tidy if possible. I don't want the wires getting into the pulley or the fan. |
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Post by spiceman on Jun 14, 2017 21:23:41 GMT -5
The metal used that crimps the wires together is soft.
You might be able to use a small screw driver to loosen
Up enough to pull the wires out.
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grizman
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since July 2011
Posts: 878
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Post by grizman on Jun 14, 2017 21:35:24 GMT -5
When I replaced a motor on one of my Lortones, I just used a small pair of pliers, maybe needlenose?, and squeezed the plastic caps on the opposite side than they had been to crimp them. It worked just fine as they slipped right off for me. You might try the same thing. Good luck!
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Post by aDave on Jun 14, 2017 21:38:18 GMT -5
After five years of continuous running, my Lortone 33B motor finally quit. There was a power outage that didn't help. I've ordered one of those GCFIs that were discussed recently that need to be restarted after a power loss. It also ruined the shafts on my QT66. I'm not sure what happened exactly, but the rubber on the shafts was melted off on the ends where the metal lid rides. The rubber was all gummy and actually missing at the very ends. Weird. Anyhow, I was wondering if there is a good way to remove the crimped on wire connectors. There is very little wire on the inside of the motor box. The little plastic thing that protects the cord as it goes through the hole looks like it's not made to be removed, so I can't just cut the crimp off and use more of the cord wire. I suppose I could start cutting the plastic off the crimp and then pry it open, but I thought there might be a better way. Any ideas? I just replaced the motor on a 45C. I was staring at much of what you're dealing with now. That plastic piece is removable. If you look at it closely, there is a segment you can squeeze with pliers (needlenose) from the outside of the tumbler case, and then you can pull outward. The piece is reusable. It's not an easy pull and you may need to "rock" the connector to have it come free. It is removeable...it just has to be done outward from the frame. After I removed the plastic piece, I simply cut the crimp connectors out of the circuit. When I replaced the motor, I used wire nuts to aid replacement in the future. I'm not sure if that's what you're looking for, but again, I did a total motor replacement, so it should be similar. If you need additional photos to help with my description of what I did, let me know. I'll be happy to let you know what I did. Dave |
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Post by wigglinrocks on Jun 14, 2017 21:38:49 GMT -5
The metal used that crimps the wires together is soft. You might be able to use a small screw driver to loosen Up enough to pull the wires out. I think the crimp connectors are aluminum . So , as spice said , you might be able to pry them open enough to get the new splice done . Might squeeze the grommet that goes through the housing with pliers , it might pull out . |
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Post by coloradocliff on Jun 14, 2017 22:09:23 GMT -5
Needle nose pliers to work the crimp in opposite directing to the crimp. Light squeezes should get your wire able to get worked out. Probably have already done it though. What did you end up doing?
Cliff
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notjustone
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2017
Posts: 426 
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Post by notjustone on Jun 14, 2017 23:25:35 GMT -5
as others have said the plastic piece (wire strain) is removable. squeeze it with pliers. snip your wires strip them back wire nut to new motor pop wire strain back in with a little more wire pushed through.
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Post by Jugglerguy on Jun 15, 2017 5:29:10 GMT -5
Thanks everyone. I'll play around with it more tonight. Today is the last day of school, so I might be a little more relaxed working on it after that,
Rob
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Post by johnjsgems on Jun 15, 2017 10:37:42 GMT -5
You could open the black cord clamp and pull a little more cord through. Then cut off old connectors, strip ends of wires and connect with wire nuts.
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Post by Jugglerguy on Jun 15, 2017 19:13:31 GMT -5
The tumbler is running again. I got the crimps off by squeezing and wiggling while pulling. No problems after that. Thanks again.
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mgroothuis
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since November 2022
Posts: 167
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Post by mgroothuis on Apr 1, 2023 13:46:14 GMT -5
Resurrecting an old thread, but I had a 33B motor failure today after a power outage. It was apparently seized and blisteringly hot. I smelled it upstairs as soon as we got home from breakfast. Pretty scary what might have happened had we not come home for a few more hours. I was able to un-crimp the wires fairly easily and replace the motor.
It was slow to start up a week or so ago, so I went ahead and bought a new motor anticipating a problem in the future. Sure enough 8 days later, the motor failed.
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Post by manofglass on Apr 1, 2023 14:04:29 GMT -5
I don't leave my tumblers run when I'm not home I had a vibe burn up once
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mgroothuis
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since November 2022
Posts: 167
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Post by mgroothuis on Apr 1, 2023 19:06:46 GMT -5
I don't leave my tumblers run when I'm not home I had a vibe burn up once Sure makes me think about it more, for sure. I have a camera on all my tumblers just to check on them when I'm not home. It think a smart plug might be in order if I need to shut things off remotely. |
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docharber
has rocks in the head
Member since October 2008
Posts: 716
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Post by docharber on Apr 16, 2023 21:27:02 GMT -5
It's pretty easy to find an equivalent C-motor for the Lortone 33B- I've done the surgery on mine before and it's easy. Make sure the shaft size, thickness and length, match and that the distance between the bolts that hold the stack of magnet plates together (and the motor to the housing) are the same distance apart- these motors are pretty standardized-and you should be able to switch out the motors easily. As for the rollers, you can get replacement rollers and bearings from Lortone or on eBay. Lortone is very proud of their motors and you should be able to get one for under $20 instead of $35. The roller degraded becauee of the lubricant eating the roller sleeve. I thought it was vinyl and it should have resisted this. I don't use oil, but instead use lithium grease or even vaseline They tend to stay put. Petroleum products will also attack the barrels, belts, etc. so be careful lubing the bearings. Lortone used to offer new drive pulleys and other parts. Even if the parts are not in the catalog / online, call customer service at Kingsley North. They often have odd lots of parts lying around and may have just what you're looking for. They had parts for my QT 12 no one else had in stock
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hplcman
spending too much on rocks
Looking forward to my Friday Night Barrel Clean out!
Member since August 2022
Posts: 491
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Post by hplcman on Oct 27, 2023 19:46:26 GMT -5
I just replaced the motor in mine and I replaced those plastic clips with Wago 221 connectors. I had to pull more of the outlet wire through into the motor housing area. These little connectors are great, super easy to disconnect and reconnect just by flipping the orange lever.  |
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Post by Son Of Beach on Oct 27, 2023 20:11:21 GMT -5
I just replaced the motor in mine and I replaced those plastic clips with Wago 221 connectors. I had to pull more of the outlet wire through into the motor housing area. These little connectors are great, super easy to disconnect and reconnect just by flipping the orange lever. Wait, how do these work? I'm not very electrical minded..... |
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adam5
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since August 2023
Posts: 153
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Post by adam5 on Oct 27, 2023 20:39:43 GMT -5
I just replaced the motor in mine and I replaced those plastic clips with Wago 221 connectors. I had to pull more of the outlet wire through into the motor housing area. These little connectors are great, super easy to disconnect and reconnect just by flipping the orange lever. I am an electrician and have been using wire nuts for 38 years, so that is what I would have probably used. But I do think that Wago connectors are great  |
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hplcman
spending too much on rocks
Looking forward to my Friday Night Barrel Clean out!
Member since August 2022
Posts: 491
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Post by hplcman on Oct 28, 2023 12:01:49 GMT -5
I just replaced the motor in mine and I replaced those plastic clips with Wago 221 connectors. I had to pull more of the outlet wire through into the motor housing area. These little connectors are great, super easy to disconnect and reconnect just by flipping the orange lever. Wait, how do these work? I'm not very electrical minded..... They're pretty sweet. They are used to splice the ends of 2 wires together, in this case the wires from the outlet and the wires from the new motor. The traditional way is to use wire nuts, which are those plastic things that you twist into the twisted ends of the wires. Those are great, but they require a bit of technique to use properly. These Wago connectors work by sliding the ends of the two wires you want to splice into the holes on the end of the connector and closing the orange lever. This clamps the wires securely in place. What I like about them is that, if the motor fails, you won't have to deal with the issues Jugglerguy had to deal with when he was going through his motor exchange. Also, they work with a wide range of gauges of wire, as well as with solid and braided wires!! They are convenient, easy to use and, for this application, a great option. |
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