zekester55
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2017
Posts: 111
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Post by zekester55 on Aug 24, 2017 20:04:01 GMT -5
Assuming I am cutting mostly quartz and agates, how many cuts should I expect to get out of a new blade? How often should i dress the blade? 10" Lortone, Baranca blade. if there is already advice on here somewhere, i didn't;t find it, just point me there. The pinned thread at the top of this category has no useful info as I can't see the photos.
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,504
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Post by Sabre52 on Aug 25, 2017 8:21:03 GMT -5
I run a ten inch saw and cut mainly real hard agate, jasper and pet wood. How often I dress kind of depends on the size of the agate I am cutting. If I'm slabbing agates big enough to be the max my vice will hold ( maybe 2 1/2 by 4" or so) I dress before I start to slice each new rock, which would mean after about four or five cuts. Small stuff, I might slab up three or four rocks between dressings. You can usually tell when it's necessary to dress by running your thumb along the edge of the blade, when it's not running of course. Your blade edge should feel rough with exposed diamond. When it feels glazed and smooth, it means metal has been dragged over the diamond and not as much cutting surface is exposed. That is when you dress to removed the steel and expose a fresh diamond surface......Mel
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Aug 25, 2017 8:27:22 GMT -5
I run an 18" and a 24" and rarely ever dress a blade. And only then to diagnose a problem feeding.
Proper cutting action of hard materials slowly erodes the matrix holding the diamonds all by itself. The rocks dress for you every cut.
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Fossilman
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,723
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Post by Fossilman on Aug 25, 2017 8:55:10 GMT -5
I cut a lot of rock...I also cut a lot of Obsidian,A LOT... So it helps me and my saw out....
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Post by johnjsgems on Aug 25, 2017 9:03:26 GMT -5
Depends on many things. Like Scott I rarely had to dress the blade on my HP24. On my hand feed saws (MK101 and my Cut Above 10) you can readily tell when you need to dress blade as pushing too hard will glaze the blade and slow the cut. On the larger Lortones the feed is way too fast and frequent dressing would be needed. Not sure on the 10". If one of the older saws I only hear great things so maybe they cut slow. I know people cutting High Desert hard rock that dress every 6 or 7 cuts. If 303C, 301, or 305 blade they actually cut better speeded up a little (blade speed, not feed speed). Run at 2000-2200 they will cut better than the old book recommendation of 1500-1800. How long a blade lasts depends on what you cut, how much you cut, what coolant you use and how careful you are when clamping rock in vise. Bear in mind the MK/BD blades use a fairly soft matrix so they cut fast and smooth but will wear out faster than harder matrix blades.
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Post by wigglinrocks on Aug 25, 2017 9:10:14 GMT -5
Depends on many things. Like Scott I rarely had to dress the blade on my HP24. On my hand feed saws (MK101 and my Cut Above 10) you can readily tell when you need to dress blade as pushing too hard will glaze the blade and slow the cut. On the larger Lortones the feed is way too fast and frequent dressing would be needed. Not sure on the 10". If one of the older saws I only hear great things so maybe they cut slow. I know people cutting High Desert hard rock that dress every 6 or 7 cuts. If 303C, 301, or 305 blade they actually cut better speeded up a little (blade speed, not feed speed). Run at 2000-2200 they will cut better than the old book recommendation of 1500-1800. How long a blade lasts depends on what you cut, how much you cut, what coolant you use and how careful you are when clamping rock in vise. Bear in mind the MK/BD blades use a fairly soft matrix so they cut fast and smooth but will wear out faster than harder matrix blades. Just curious , what blades are you using in the two saws mentioned above ?
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Aug 25, 2017 10:13:26 GMT -5
For a point of reference - on my BD10 with the MK303 blade, I get about 3 cuts of a max size hard rock when I'm using water with additives and hand feeding (trying to be non-aggressive with the pressure but you know how it is). Blade wears out fast with this system. More cuts probably with oil between dressing. I'm interested in other people's answers.
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,504
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Post by Sabre52 on Aug 25, 2017 13:11:03 GMT -5
Man, when I ran a 20 inch saw I had to dress it constantly and it was always bogging down in the cuts and that was after slowing the feed way, way down by changing my pulleys. *L* Of course mechanical skill wise I totally suck eggs...Mel
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Aug 25, 2017 13:34:13 GMT -5
I never dress. I do all of my slabbing naked. Whoops, I misread the question.
I never dress my blade. If you have to dress a blade, there is something causing glazing over of the metal. Fix that problem. Lortone has a slow & fast feed drive for their 12 & 14" saws. The fast one often feeds faster than the blade can cut, so it glazes over. Lynn
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Post by accidentalrockhound on Aug 25, 2017 14:11:05 GMT -5
I have an HP24 model U, I had it is once last summer never have dressed the blade. Cutting mostly hard material. I cut on the slowest speed and I think the blade is a green line that came with the saw when it was purchased new.wonder if I need to dress the blade,
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Aug 25, 2017 15:32:14 GMT -5
I have an HP24 model U, I had it is once last summer never have dressed the blade. Cutting mostly hard material. I cut on the slowest speed and I think the blade is a green line that came with the saw when it was purchased new.wonder if I need to dress the blade, Is it cutting problem free?
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Post by accidentalrockhound on Aug 25, 2017 17:01:42 GMT -5
I have an HP24 model U, I had it is once last summer never have dressed the blade. Cutting mostly hard material. I cut on the slowest speed and I think the blade is a green line that came with the saw when it was purchased new.wonder if I need to dress the blade, Is it cutting problem free? As far as I know the Cuts are clean and smooth cut lots of different material. Today I am cutting a piece of pet wood from Here in Colorado. The cuts are clean and smooth will post pic's of the wood later, after reading this I may run a fire brick through it just to see if I feel a difference on the blade. I figured since I cut super slow the blade has time to wear, I do know the oil needs changed badly gonna clean it out for the winter and order new oil come spring time, pretty sure it's the original oil as well, same blade same oil sitting there since 78', moved it here to my home full took 7 guys to lift it into ànd out of my trailer.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
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Post by Deleted on Aug 25, 2017 17:36:04 GMT -5
If cuts are clean and smooth I wouldn't think dressing is in order
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Post by stardiamond on Aug 25, 2017 17:46:58 GMT -5
I hate my Covington saw because it keeps binding. I called Covington recently and was told to make a couple dressing cuts before cutting hard material. I had talked to them previously and was told to dress until you could feel the diamonds on the cutting edge. I am using a 14 inch 303 blade in the 16" saw. It feels sharp but still binds. The clutch feed adjustment doesn't change anything.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Aug 25, 2017 19:15:52 GMT -5
I hate my Covington saw because it keeps binding. I called Covington recently and was told to make a couple dressing cuts before cutting hard material. I had talked to them previously and was told to dress until you could feel the diamonds on the cutting edge. I am using a 14 inch 303 blade in the 16" saw. It feels sharp but still binds. The clutch feed adjustment doesn't change anything. Mine only binds on full height cuts. I think because the blade is not perpendicular and parallel to the vice. I need to call them about this.
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Post by johnjsgems on Aug 25, 2017 20:08:20 GMT -5
I use a 301 on the MK101 and generally have a 305 in the Cut Above. The Cut Above is my demo saw so abused by customers at shows. Generally dress it at beginning of show and as needed during show. Both these saws are about 3200 rpm, water cooled and easy to cut abusively. My old HP24 had the old MK 301 red notched rim blades (24" and 20"). I don;t think I dressed the 24" until it started to dish. When it got too bad I put the older 20" on. I ran the feed on slowest pulley and left the blade speed as it left the factory. Covington's slipping vise is a common complaint. At least one customer "fixed" his slipping clutch by using a 301 blade (10" Covington). Covington clutch is designed to slip but I do hear a lot of complaints. Some Lortones have a dressing stick holder on the vise. What does that say about their "fastest saw in the West"?
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mikeinsjc
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2010
Posts: 329
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Post by mikeinsjc on Sept 1, 2017 17:26:55 GMT -5
Ever use a Skilsaw with a dull blade? It takes more force to push through the wood, wanders off the line when it gets really dull, and the sound changes. A dull skilsaw blade emits an obnoxious high-pitched squeal- a sharp blade is soft and quiet. Also look at the teeth on a dull blade. The corners are rounded.
Check the profile on a new lapidary blade vs. one that has seen a lot of use, and you will notice the same square vs. rounded profile. When you dress a blade, you want to restore that same sharp edge.
Think about this: how do they resharpen (dress) your table saw blade? They grind it. They don't run it through a piece of ironwood or lignum vitae, they GRIND it. That's what you need to do to your lapidary blades. After I started grinding blades, I am convinced that all the traditionally used methods of "dressing" a diamond blade are pretty much bogus- the white stones, bricks, obsidian, old grinding wheels, etc. Think about this- do you think they sharpen the diamond blades used to cut asphalt, etc, by running them through red bricks?
If you use a good quality blade and it is properly aligned, you will get a smooth cut if you are feeding properly. The first indicator of a blade needing dressing for me is the sound it makes. Just like the skilsaw blade, I can tell when the sound changes. Secondly, the cuts get rougher. There is no predictor for how long this takes- as was mentioned above there are too many factors in play here to put a time to it. I say dress the blade when it doesn't cut as well as it did new.
If I want to learn how to do something right, rather than trying to reinvent the wheel I go to the people who do that thing for a living. I copy their tools and techniques. I know an outfit in the NW (you've heard of them) that runs probably 15-20 16" and greater HP saws continuously cutting all types of material. That's where I learned the blade grinding technique. There may be more than one way to skin a cat, but I will pay more attention to the guy who skins cats all day long.
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doublet83
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 118
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Post by doublet83 on Sept 1, 2017 22:27:20 GMT -5
How does one grind the blade? (newbie here)
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2017 9:34:49 GMT -5
How does one grind the blade? (newbie here) By cutting an abrasive grinding wheel. The diamond cuts thru just fine and the abrasive grinds out some metal matrix between the diamond. This exposes the diamond for better cutting.
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