meviva
Cave Dweller
Member since July 2013
Posts: 1,474
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Post by meviva on Oct 22, 2017 19:35:14 GMT -5
I have never polished the back of the cabs I have made. I kind of like being able to see what the rock looked like before polishing, but I think I want to start polishing them. Do you polish the back before you dop it or after it’s completed? Do you polish it on the wheels or something else?
Thanks, Andrea
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Post by fantastic5 on Oct 22, 2017 19:50:20 GMT -5
I have never polished the back of the cabs I have made. I kind of like being able to see what the rock looked like before polishing, but I think I want to start polishing them. Do you polish the back before you dop it or after it’s completed? Do you polish it on the wheels or something else? Thanks, Andrea I usually don't dop, which makes it easier to polish the backs once the front is completed. I have also dropped them in a Lot-o polish load with mixed result. I've lost some to undercutting.
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Roger
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2013
Posts: 1,487
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Post by Roger on Oct 22, 2017 22:15:29 GMT -5
I polish the backs on most of mine. I use the cab machine, same as on the fronts. If the back is too rough I sometimes use a 220# lap to flatten and smooth them before I start on the cab.
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Post by rockjunquie on Oct 22, 2017 23:33:02 GMT -5
I rarely do, but when I do, I use the 600 wheel. Sometimes I use the flat lap, like what Roger said. If the back is in bad shape- it's off to the flat lap. I always grind the back edge down a little, though. I do that on the 600.
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Post by Pat on Oct 22, 2017 23:38:26 GMT -5
I polish the backs on the Genie or flat lap. Starting at 600 works because shaping isn’t needed. Also gently modify bottom edges to prevent chipping, and to improve finished look.
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 23, 2017 9:16:45 GMT -5
I never polish the backs of mine unless I know I'm going to set it in an open back setting. But then, I don't sell them. I do bevel the corners, as Pat and Tela mentioned. When I do polish, I try to do it on the wheels, and if necessary switch to the flat lap. For the flat lap, I'll redop with the wax on the polished face. But I don't dop for the wheels anymore.
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Post by pauls on Oct 23, 2017 16:01:22 GMT -5
You should polish the backs of any translucent cab, anything that light will show through benefits greatly from having the back polished. Light entering the front of a translucent cab will hit the frosted back if its unpolished and scatter giving a milky muddy effect, the same stone when the back is polished will reflect the light back and you will get a nice clear clean bright colour. It will really pop.
The best way to do it is actually very simple and surprisingly quick for a completely manual method. You will need a few scraps of sheet metal about 6 inches or so square, and about 1/16th thick, stainless is nice but galvanised is also good or failing that just plain steel. Don't get too hung up about the size if its 3 inches wide and six long, who cares, just whatever you can scrounge as offcuts from your local sheetmetal place.
Start with a small sprinkle of 100 grit on one steel plate and a spray of water, put your cab on this and just lightly rub in a circle changing direction often, you can try a figure eight if you like. Wash and dry and inspect after a minute or two and look carefully for any saw marks, if there are marks continue for another minute with a bit more fresh grit sprinkled on, repeat. When all traces of saw marks are gone move on to 240 grit for a bit, then 600, then 1000 or 1200. when you have a nice even finish with the 1200 wash the stone and your hands carefully, then just take it to your normal polishing wheel. I never dop to polish the backs, I just hold one end and polish the other on the edge of the buff then hold the polished end while I polish the rest.
Try this way of doing it you will be really really surprised how quick and painless it is, and you will be amazed what a difference it makes to some stones.
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meviva
Cave Dweller
Member since July 2013
Posts: 1,474
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Post by meviva on Oct 23, 2017 17:08:00 GMT -5
Thanks for the info pauls Do you think it would work with wet sandpaper? I have used wet sandpaper for amber. Andrea
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Post by pauls on Oct 24, 2017 1:06:37 GMT -5
Andrea, if its Silicon Carbide sandpaper then it will work fine, Sandpaper comes in all sorts though so beware of what you are buying, sand, glass, emery, garnet are all used for wood, metal etc but are pretty useless for rocks. The best place to buy the correct stuff is paint shops that supply the auto body repair trade, usually way cheaper than consumer hardware stores.
You really don't need much loose grit to do my method though, if you have anyone near you tumbling see if you can beg a salt shaker full of each grit, it will last years.
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