bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34 
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Post by bmw2002 on Apr 27, 2018 15:50:37 GMT -5
I believe my old Star Diomond 10" motor is about to conk. It hesitates a lot these days, so it could be the capacitor, or something else that needs an overhaul. My question is that original GE motor is a 3/4 HP @1725 rpm's. I would like to upgrade to a 1 HP with the same 1725 rpm's if that is possible? Should I stick with the mfg's standard 3/4, or is there any benefit in increasing the HP to 1.00? Thanks with any comments.
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Post by parfive on Apr 27, 2018 16:27:03 GMT -5
My 14” Lortone runs just fine with a 1/3 hp motor.
Hard to believe that ¾ horse is original equipment on a ten-inch saw.
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Post by parfive on Apr 27, 2018 16:42:24 GMT -5
Hmm? Covington website no longer lists motor size for their big slab saws, 18” and up.
Covington's Combination Slab and Trim Saws feature a 1/2hp motor on all units: 12” 14” & 16”.
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Apr 27, 2018 16:51:07 GMT -5
My beacon star 14" came stock with 1/2 Hp and that has always worked great. Never heard of a 10" saw needing that large of a motor unless it were part of one of the old combo units where the saw and several grinding wheels we sharing a motor.
Chuck
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Apr 27, 2018 16:53:48 GMT -5
If your saw is the same as this one it should be 1/3 HP   Chuck |
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Post by woodman on Apr 27, 2018 17:08:24 GMT -5
my 10 inch Lortone slab saw has a 1/3 hp motor at 1725 rpm. It works great.
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Post by pauls on Apr 27, 2018 22:58:40 GMT -5
Hows your mechanical aptitude?
If you can handle tools reasonably competantly then undoing a few bolts and having a look could be worthwhile.
Unplugged from the electricity first of coarse, wires probably will be push on terminals, if you need to remove any make yourself a diagram and tag the wires but you should be able to just pop the end off enough to get a look at the switch points, one of them will possibly be dirty, clean it with a small piece of wet and dry sandpaper. reassemble and see how it goes.
It's also possibly the capacitor which only cost around $10 at your local electrical wholesaler.
While you have it apart oil the bearings.
Easy peasy, if you seriously stuff something remember you were going to throw it away anyway.
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bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
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Post by bmw2002 on May 3, 2018 18:38:59 GMT -5
Thanks to everyone. After messing with the arbor shaft, and pulleys on the saw, I noted that the set screw on the pulley of the arbor shaft was not connecting to the key. For some reason it had sheared off. Got a new one, put some spacers between the reservoir and the motor which helped tightened the loose belt as it had too much play. Cleaned up the motor, put a new blade in, and am happy to say that I am now slip, slabbing away!! Thanks to all of you for your help. I would have never figured it out. Yes, I agree that a 1/3 HP, 1725 RPM is more than sufficient. Only thing is that Star Diamond put in a 3/4 HP unit as original equipment, as I bought this saw used. Maybe some one previously did a change out. Works like a champ now. I am a SD fan!!
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Post by johnjsgems on May 4, 2018 11:18:43 GMT -5
Glad you got it done cheap. For the record, sometimes a vastly unloaded motor will run hot for some reason. Best to run somewhere in the 2/3-3/4 of rated running amps. Always good to periodically blow out motors with compressed air. A buildup of dust on windings can cause problems over time. Just blow air through any air vents.
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