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Post by lpl on May 21, 2018 10:56:28 GMT -5
Hi all, I just picked up a CabKing on the cheap from Craigslist, really these good deals never come my way, so I jumped on this when I saw it! It's a learning curve from my Graves CabMate for sure. I do have a question as to how people dry off the cabs between wheels. I towel them off, but they never really dry enough for me to see the scratches, and they all look great and I keep going, then I see to my horror after I have finished that there are a ton of scratches missed. So is there a best practice? Towel? Time? Compressed air? Just curious what other folks are doing. Thanks! John
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<'))))>< Fish
Cave Dweller
Gone Fishing
Member since April 2005
Posts: 1,842
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Post by <'))))>< Fish on May 21, 2018 11:05:26 GMT -5
I use a towel, if you geting scratches, stay longer on the 280 wheel
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fishnpinball
Cave Dweller
So much to learn, so little time
Member since March 2017
Posts: 1,491
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Post by fishnpinball on May 21, 2018 11:11:38 GMT -5
I use an aluminum scribe to ensure my doming is good, and take a break after the 280 wheel to check for any other scratches. Doesn't need to be a long break... 5-10 minutes.
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Post by mohs on May 21, 2018 12:11:26 GMT -5
Ha ha Drying the cab between grind step to check for scratches that problem used to really ![(old-timer)](//storage.proboards.com/1258779/images/PcLbHKUCKsbMLjVDxKQG.gif) me I hated waiting-- wanted to be grinding Towel was less than efficient Paper towel worked-- but got expensive and unwieldy quickly So I hooked a up hair dryer ![(thumbs-up)](//storage.proboards.com/1258779/images/poyofurZTHYIzGrfVSom.gif) After certain amount of practice/experience The process gets mush easier and wet stones were no longer a problem mostly
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Post by lpl on May 21, 2018 12:26:10 GMT -5
</div>I'm on the 280 for what seems like an eternity! ...but maybe not long enough...
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Post by lpl on May 21, 2018 12:28:30 GMT -5
I use an aluminum scribe to ensure my doming is good, and take a break after the 280 wheel to check for any other scratches. Doesn't need to be a long break... 5-10 minutes. I had one guy tell me to cover the surface with sharpie and once the sharpie color is gone, move to the next wheel. Is that sort-of what you are doing with the scribe?
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Post by lpl on May 21, 2018 12:30:49 GMT -5
Ha ha Drying the cab between grind step to check for scratches that problem used to really ![(old-timer)](//storage.proboards.com/1258779/images/0SuX0sPsKSHYBJFArBWI.gif) me I hated waiting-- wanted to be grinding Towel was less than efficient Paper towel worked-- but got expensive and unwieldy quickly So I hooked a up hair dryer ![(thumbs-up)](//storage.proboards.com/1258779/images/dWwJpCFLtbQGkvxhuKsq.gif) After certain amount of practice/experience The process gets mush easier and wet stones were no longer a problem mostly All of this! I hate to wait, since I want to be grinding. I just got a bottle of compressed air that I'm going to try out next time and see if I can speed up the drying process. But, if I need to slow down and/or take a break, then that's what I will do. I like the hair dryer idea!
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Post by Pat on May 21, 2018 12:54:54 GMT -5
I use a towel, or paper towel, and go stand in the sun. All above suggestions are good! My Genie has a magnifying glass and a lamp; that's helpful, too.
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Post by parfive on May 21, 2018 12:55:13 GMT -5
Previously . . . Most of us cab with a light bulb right next to us, so it’s easy to check progress . . . frequently.
Just give the cab a quick wipe, hold it up to the bulb for a few seconds and it’s bone dry. Check it with the loupe and you’re back on the wheel in no time.
forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/73093/flat-spots
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Post by stardiamond on May 21, 2018 13:55:05 GMT -5
My eyes aren't as good as they were, are more sensitive to glare and I don't see scratches easily. I break after 220 Nova. The 220 is more aggressive than the 280 and doesn't scratch more. I dry the cabs and then bring them inside and sit down in a place with good lighting. I repeat the break after 1200. After final polishing I inspect again and anything with scratches gets put aside for the next session. Frequently, the scratches are not evident until after final polishing.
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Post by rockjunquie on May 21, 2018 14:17:20 GMT -5
I have 2 strong lights on my Gene. I wear optivisors and I always have a towel. I have no problems drying between wheels with the towel. It is best if it is a cotton towel. Actually, what I have is an adult bib with a long front. It velcros at the neck. I got them on Amazon. Cotton. The first 2 wheels on Gene throw up a little bit of water, hence the bib. ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) I also replaced my 280 with a 220 Nova. Best thing I ever did. Never looked back.
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Post by lpl on May 21, 2018 14:22:46 GMT -5
Thanks for all of the great suggestions. I'm just so impatient and want to be grinding, since I have so little time to do it. But it seems like patience is the key.
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Post by pauls on May 21, 2018 14:34:40 GMT -5
I just stop the water for a few seconds, a tiny bit of heat and a tiny bit of mud dried in the scratches shows them up easily.
I am not dry sanding or standing in a cloud of silica dust, this is just long enough to dry the stone.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on May 21, 2018 17:17:10 GMT -5
When looking at the title " drying cabs between wheels", I thought: " How thick does a preform have to be to get stuck between the wheels? And what good would it do to try and dry them there?" My answer would be to first get them out from between the wheels and then dry them off. But reading the other replies, I figure that's not what you were going for ![(blush)](//storage.proboards.com/1258779/images/KrpCJdhvVypudEAbwRrn.gif)
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fishnpinball
Cave Dweller
So much to learn, so little time
Member since March 2017
Posts: 1,491
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Post by fishnpinball on May 21, 2018 17:42:09 GMT -5
I use an aluminum scribe to ensure my doming is good, and take a break after the 280 wheel to check for any other scratches. Doesn't need to be a long break... 5-10 minutes. I had one guy tell me to cover the surface with sharpie and once the sharpie color is gone, move to the next wheel. Is that sort-of what you are doing with the scribe? Close. I make my dome then check it. Then just do a fairly quick run over the dome to make sure the whole surface is hit. If just a small amount is left I work on the dome till it is gone. If more is left I do that and then mark it up again and repeat. A whole lot showing flat may push you back a wheel.
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sophia13
spending too much on rocks
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star_teal.png)
RIP Jason Strickland, AKA sophia13
Member since March 2018
Posts: 327
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Post by sophia13 on May 21, 2018 17:53:22 GMT -5
I have 2 strong lights on my Gene. I wear optivisors and I always have a towel. I have no problems drying between wheels with the towel. It is best if it is a cotton towel. Actually, what I have is an adult bib with a long front. It velcros at the neck. I got them on Amazon. Cotton. The first 2 wheels on Gene throw up a little bit of water, hence the bib. ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) I also replaced my 280 with a 220 Nova. Best thing I ever did. Never looked back. So, what is your grit/wheel setup now if I may ask
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Post by rockjunquie on May 21, 2018 18:00:54 GMT -5
I have 2 strong lights on my Gene. I wear optivisors and I always have a towel. I have no problems drying between wheels with the towel. It is best if it is a cotton towel. Actually, what I have is an adult bib with a long front. It velcros at the neck. I got them on Amazon. Cotton. The first 2 wheels on Gene throw up a little bit of water, hence the bib. ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) I also replaced my 280 with a 220 Nova. Best thing I ever did. Never looked back. So, what is your grit/wheel setup now if I may ask The standard Genie set up except I substituted the 280 soft for 220 soft and I added 14k, 50k and 100k. So, it's 80, 220 hard, 220 soft, 600, 1200, 3000- my outside wheel is 14k and I have 2 spin on wheels for 50k diamond paste and 100k diamond paste.
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Post by mohs on May 21, 2018 20:00:16 GMT -5
Thanks for all of the great suggestions. I'm just so impatient and want to be grinding, since I have so little time to do it. But it seems like patience is the key. That was my problem when starting to cab could only do it on the weekends & I wanted finished products by Sunday's end So staying on the wheel was a priority I really struggled on some those early grinds Learning curve drying the stone was really only a minimal problem Looking back Your technique really improves with practice Grinding because much more efficient & scratches become non- existent Best of luck & grind on
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minerken
Cave Dweller
Member since August 2013
Posts: 466
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Post by minerken on May 21, 2018 20:17:23 GMT -5
I have a bench grinder with buffing wheels on it next to the cabbing station and just reach over and use that to dry it off works great and fast
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Post by stardiamond on May 21, 2018 20:35:26 GMT -5
Thanks for all of the great suggestions. I'm just so impatient and want to be grinding, since I have so little time to do it. But it seems like patience is the key. That was my problem when starting to cab could only do it on the weekends & I wanted finished products by Sunday's end So staying on the wheel was a priority I really struggled on some those early grinds Learning curve drying the stone was really only a minimal problem Looking back Your technique really improves with practice Grinding because much more efficient & scratches become non- existent Best of luck & grind on I've been cabbing for over 15 years and am self taught. Ideally, I try to do as much work as possible on a wheel before moving on. I also try to not have to go backwards because of scratches. The hardness of the material dictates how much you can do on a grit. Some material dictates starting on the 220 and the harder material requires better technique to remove scratches. Montana is a good example of that. Something softer is easier. What I miss on the 220 soft can be dealt with on the 600.
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