llanago
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2004
Posts: 1,714
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Post by llanago on Jul 11, 2004 2:32:56 GMT -5
BE and I have been using continuous rim diamond blades for our rock cutting. We are going to have to get a new blade soon and I have been doing a little research on diamond blades. I have come across numerous sites that have notched lapidary blades. Does anybody use a notched blade? Do they last longer, cut better, etc?
Also, how many cutting hours can we expect from a diamond blade? We think we may be wearing our blades out faster than we should, but we really don't know how long they should last. We got our saw from John about mid- April and we are on our 4th blade. We have been cutting a lot of rocks, so wearing out 3 (almost 4) blades in 3 months may be normal. We haven't kept a record of how many hours we have used the blades. We also think we have not been using enough Tool Lube, so that is probably one reason why they don't last longer.
And, of course, we haven't bought any of those blades in the $40-$60 range! The most expensive one we bought was a Diamond Hard Premium Continuous Rim blade with a 10mm rim height, but it didn't fit the saw, even though it's the right size.
The blades we have were all made in China. I am wondering if an American made blade might last longer, even though it would probably be a bit more expensive.
So, what's your 2 cents?
llana
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Post by docone31 on Jul 11, 2004 3:17:32 GMT -5
Wow, that is a lot of blades in a short time. I am still on my original blade and I have abused the daylights out of it. A notched blade cuts a little more agressively, it is like using island laps. The space between the cutting surfaces has a tendancy to flush the cut. With all my lapidary tools, I have found you get what you pay for. I cut a lot of turquoise. Turquoise is not like agate, Alexandrite. Turquoise cuts like butter, Alexandrite and agate cut like quartz. Big difference. Big difference in the effect of the blade also. Side pressure, cut pressure can affect the longevity of the blade. Going too slow also prematurely affects the blade. Additives like cool tool, or mineral oil help prevent rust more than protect the diamonds. Diamonds in wheels, blades, and laps fracture. This gives additional cutting points, as well as the diamond migrating in the sintered, or pressed surface. Also with the notched blade, the kerf is wider than continous rim blades.
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Post by BearCreekLapidary on Jul 11, 2004 3:33:38 GMT -5
Hello llana, All of my saws 4", 6", 8", 10" and the ol' 14" all run Continuous rim "notched style" blades and they have for many years. As far as how many hours can you expect to get from a diamond blade ... that is the six million dollar question ;D! It depends on the speed at which your blade is turning, the type of lubricant you are useing, the way they you cut the stones (are you being too aggressive and forcing the cut), the quality of the blade and the kind of rough you are cutting. There are many factors that you can use to prolong your blade. I personally use only blades that have been made in the USA ... I did use an imported blade once, and I wasn't too excited about the quality or cutting action of the blade ... so it was quick to be changed! I have a 10" Lortone (with a MK Diamond - Gemking Blade approx costs of the blade 130.00 new) that gets used every day and it has probably seen close to 300 pounds of rough in either slabbing or trimming and I still have a bunch of life left on the blade. My 14" Star Diamond Slab Saw has MK Diamond Gemking Blade (approximate cost new 250.00) in it as well, and at approximately 700 to 800 pounds of rough slabbed, it's still cutting like it should and there is a lot of cutting area left on this blade as well. I am a firm believer that quality blades/equipment will ALWAYS save you money in the long run ... it will cost you more to begin with, but you wont be replacing the blade in a month. I also have some Raytech Black Blazer Diamond Blades that perform very well. I use a 10" Pro-Slicer blade for most of my trimming and whenever I am cutting quality fire opal. My Pro-Slicer is 4 years old and it has been used for thousands of trim cuts and it still cuts extremely well. I think I paid 48.00 for it on eBay years ago and it was new. I believe that you can find them at or around that same price today. My smaller saws all use baby oil as a lubricant and the 14" has a food grade oil in it ... roughly a 10 weight oil, very light and safe to use . I do not use any water additive coolants in my saws, as they are basically water (not much lubrication there) and a rust inhibitor/lubricant (not much lubrication there either). I use Cool Lube in my Genie's (cabbing machine) as it works great for that particular purpose ... I just do not personally use it in my saws. Everyone is different with their own preferences ... this is just my preference. I don't know if I have been of much help, but this is what I am using and everything as of right now is still in very good condition and not needing to be replaced anytime soon. If I can be of any help at all, please let me know. Enjoy, John
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llanago
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2004
Posts: 1,714
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Post by llanago on Jul 11, 2004 11:17:19 GMT -5
Thanks Doc and John. I have been thinking one reason our blades go so fast is because they are not high quality blades. I have learned over the years that qualiity does count but since BE and I are just getting started with this rock cutting stuff, we have never discussed investing in a more expensive blade. I do mostly straight cuts, but BE is getting more creative. Yesterday she cut an arrowhead with rabbit ears! I don't think the rabbit ears were intentional, but for her first try, she did a darn good job! I would say most of the rocks we cut are around a 7 on the MOH - lots of agate, quartz, etc. We have cut some softer rocks, but most are pretty hard. We keep the tray full of water/lubricant and I don't think we are forcing the rocks. We get together about once a week and cut rocks, so it's not used every day. We cut alot of rock when we get together, but I bet we have never cut more than about 10 pounds at a time, if that much. I KNOW we haven't cut anywhere close to 200 or 300 lbs. of rock since we got the saw. Going too slow also prematurely affects the blade. All of our cuts seem slow to me, but the only thing I have to compare it to is cutting a 2 X 4,6,8,10 with a diamond blade - now thats FAST! But can hardly be used as a comparison when cutting rocks! John, BE and I talked about using baby oil and would have sure used it yesterday if we would have had it. Although the Skin So Soft seemed to work just fine - but it DID NOT make our rocks any softer! Ah, but they smelled so good! I use baby oil when I get out of the shower and it's some slippery stuff. Does it make the rocks slippery and hard to hold on to? I am thinking it might be time for us to invest in a higher quality blade! Where do ya'll get your blades? llana
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Post by BearCreekLapidary on Jul 11, 2004 15:53:38 GMT -5
Hello llana,
The last blade I purchased was from Kingsley North, and I know that there other places to buy from. I have done business with Kingsley North for some time now and I have always been pleased with the level of service.
If you have a local rock shop, they may have an assortment to choose from. If not you may want to check out:
Raytech Diamond Blades Graves - Lapidary supply MK Diamond Blades Lortone Inc. Diamond Pacific Inc.
That is a few places to start with.
Enjoy,
John
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llanago
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2004
Posts: 1,714
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Post by llanago on Jul 11, 2004 23:04:26 GMT -5
BE was just telling me she read in the description of a 10" rock saw that it would cut 8" of rock per hour. Is that right? I know we cut more than 8" of rock per hour.
Also, on KD's trim saw thread, Cal said cutting a couple of slabs off an aluminum oxide sharpening stone would expose more diamonds. Has anybody else tried this? We're going to just as soon as we get an aluminum oxide sharpening stone. But first we have to find out where to get one! Our local hardware store doesn't carry them.
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Post by docone31 on Jul 11, 2004 23:48:09 GMT -5
I might hesitate before I cut an aluminum, or corundum sharpining stone. That is just me. I might consider putting the blade, if it is continous rim, on backwards for a few cuts. A blade will only make so many good cuts. If any tool is hogged performance will be sacrificed.
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llanago
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2004
Posts: 1,714
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Post by llanago on Jul 11, 2004 23:57:09 GMT -5
Hogged? I really try not to hog the saw when BE and I are cutting! LOL!
I know that's not what hogging means in this case, but I don't know what it means. Ya' know what I mean? ;D
llana
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Post by docone31 on Jul 11, 2004 23:59:22 GMT -5
Hogged means to take too big a bite. Basically pushing the piece too hard. Too slow can glaze the blade.
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bschultz
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2004
Posts: 234
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Post by bschultz on Jul 12, 2004 8:59:41 GMT -5
Hey Llana, I've always heard that taking a few cuts off an ordinary clay brick will help your blade. You try calling the folks at Alamo and explaining you blade problems and see if they have any suggestions.
Bob
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Post by sandsman1 on Jul 12, 2004 16:23:48 GMT -5
yea bob i herd that too about the red brick said it would clean the glaze off the diamonds make them sharp again
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shorty
spending too much on rocks
Member since December 2003
Posts: 392
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Post by shorty on Jul 12, 2004 18:05:40 GMT -5
hi all i wish you all wouldnt have started this thread i used up my 10inch blade today . and its all your fault it couldnt have ben mine i only used it 6 mounths not bad i dont think . owel shorty
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bwalters
has rocks in the head
Member since March 2004
Posts: 557
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Post by bwalters on Jul 12, 2004 19:14:40 GMT -5
Hi All, Hey, Llana and I can certainly try the brick trick. I have several of those stacked within about 20' of the saw! I was kinda wondering why I had those there. ;D ;D ;D
BE
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WarrenA
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since November 2003
Posts: 1,530
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Post by WarrenA on Jul 12, 2004 23:21:53 GMT -5
I was working on a new house where they were cutting bricks with a big saw and it wouldn't cut anymore so they took the blade to a guy who sharpens blades and he told them to put it back on the saw and get a piece of asphault and cut that and the blade would be as good as new. it worked
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