jamesp
Cave Dweller 
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,612
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Post by jamesp on Jul 19, 2018 7:22:21 GMT -5
I am sawing glass and do not need rock cutting oil(water does perfect) for the 18" MK 303S saw blade but do need lubricant for moving parts in saw.
I would prefer to use straight water and some kind of 'super stick' aerosol lubricant for the moving parts.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 19, 2018 10:55:29 GMT -5
I heard Kingsley sells a good product. The Smokey's EZ Cut is good too. Both would prevent rust but not to lubricate saw parts. You could maybe use silicone grease or spray lubricant on the moving parts. I use silicone spray when using my MK101 to keep sliding tray sliding. That blade is overhead and uses a pump so no issues with water.
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Post by orrum on Jul 20, 2018 16:49:06 GMT -5
I use Johns Smokey and some borax in pink antifreeze. Sounds like a witches brew but sure works in my 10 inch slab saw and 6 inch and 4 inch trim saws.
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,612
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Post by jamesp on Jul 23, 2018 4:46:25 GMT -5
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 30, 2018 12:48:50 GMT -5
Barranca modified all their saws to work with water or water soluble coolants to supply equipment to universities and other test labs, etc. that can't use oil. They zinc coated all cast iron vise components and plated the vise rods. Water will really eat up any cast iron so after cutting I would spray everything down with WD40 or similar water displacing compound to preserve. If you could really get everything really clean, you could likely use expensive epoxy paint to coat anything that could rust or corrode.
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,612
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Post by jamesp on Aug 6, 2018 10:35:48 GMT -5
Barranca modified all their saws to work with water or water soluble coolants to supply equipment to universities and other test labs, etc. that can't use oil. They zinc coated all cast iron vise components and plated the vise rods. Water will really eat up any cast iron so after cutting I would spray everything down with WD40 or similar water displacing compound to preserve. If you could really get everything really clean, you could likely use expensive epoxy paint to coat anything that could rust or corrode. Cut many a rock on this Covington johnjsgems. For 12 years. Never had the paint crinkle and fall off. This glass is soda lime glass with near concrete alkalinity, can tell the way it works on skin. I cut a whole bunch of glass without changing the water over 3 day period. The ph of the water skyrocketed and the 12 year old paint started crinkling and falling off. All the internal paint was about gone, the aluminum parts totally lost their paint. Covington said to drain the water every use to avoid this situation. Especially when sawing soda lime glass. The glass mud is like wet concrete when scavenged, hardens into some serious hard balls when molded to such shape. |
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Post by johnjsgems on Aug 6, 2018 11:32:29 GMT -5
Draining water after use a good idea in any saw unless an overhead type saw where everything is out of the water (like my MK101) or the old Raytech plastic sump insert trim saws.
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NRG
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since February 2018
Posts: 1,688
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Post by NRG on Aug 10, 2018 0:36:48 GMT -5
Wow
I woulda never guessed that alkali water would destroy Covington paint.
But then again it explains why the paint on mine is toast. The Geo lab used it with water alone.
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Post by grumpybill on Aug 13, 2018 12:29:42 GMT -5
...an overhead type saw where everything is out of the water (like my MK101)... Off topic, but I'm curious about what blade you run on that saw. I assume an Agate Kutter? Asking because I'll soon need a new blade for my ancient Diamant Boart tile saw. |
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