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Post by TheRock on Sept 15, 2018 21:56:18 GMT -5
New cabbin’ machine . . . new wheels . . . but slower than expected. I’m thinkin’ maybe new operator just gotta get a feel for the game. Yeah that must be it.  Keep your day time job, you would Starve being a comedian. |
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Post by wigglinrocks on Sept 15, 2018 22:06:58 GMT -5
Fire up the ole supergrinder for hoggin off excess material .
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Post by TheRock on Sept 15, 2018 22:26:38 GMT -5
Fire up the ole supergrinder for hoggin off excess material .  |
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Post by wigglinrocks on Sept 15, 2018 22:28:56 GMT -5
That should cure a bit of impatience for sure .
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Post by TheRock on Sept 15, 2018 22:41:45 GMT -5
Oh I wasn't going to use that on Rock's, this was to trim my Toe Nails |
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Post by TheRock on Sept 16, 2018 13:07:30 GMT -5
Thank you for everyone's feedback even my Comedian Friend parfive  I decided to go with Hans because I received Some PM's about their products. I got a 60 grit ~ 100 Grit ~ and a 220 Grit. That will take care of the left side of the machine for now.  |
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Sept 16, 2018 14:53:50 GMT -5
I've been using an 8" 60 grit sintered wheel from Lapidary Tools (MoHan) from China for about 6 1/2 years. It was about $230 shipped, but costs more now. He sells on Amazon, eBay & direct.
It started with 5mm deep of diamond/bronze mix. I've cut several hundred or even more than a thousand cabs with it & I hardly notice any wear. It may outlive me!
Inland brand have 3mm of diamond.
It is recommended to get it one step coarser than you use in a plated wheel. So 60 instead of 80, etc.
I think that the 100 grit you're buying is overkill. I'd do 60 & 180. You get most of your shaping done on the 60. The 180 refines it & then you jump to your 280 soft wheel. I actually have a 360 plated wheel in between.
Lynn
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Post by TheRock on Sept 16, 2018 15:57:47 GMT -5
I've been using an 8" 60 grit sintered wheel from Lapidary Tools (MoHan) from China for about 6 1/2 years. It was about $230 shipped, but costs more now. He sells on Amazon, eBay & direct. It started with 5mm deep of diamond/bronze mix. I've cut several hundred or even more than a thousand cabs with it & I hardly notice any wear. It may outlive me! Inland brand have 3mm of diamond. It is recommended to get it one step coarser than you use in a plated wheel. So 60 instead of 80, etc. I think that the 100 grit you're buying is overkill. I'd do 60 & 180. You get most of your shaping done on the 60. The 180 refines it & then you jump to your 280 soft wheel. I actually have a 360 plated wheel in between. Lynn Well Lynn I Figure the 60 is and 80 the 100 is a 120 and the 220 is a 240 It might be a little overkill out of range, But I have an Intarsia with 8 different size Grits in that range too, so I have something to get the Job Done. You were one of the reasons from another thread I think it was Tommy's when he said he was TOASTING DP GALAXY'S So thanks. forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/72547/sintered-wheels-neosint-inland-lapidary |
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Post by pauls on Sept 16, 2018 16:31:37 GMT -5
That sounds like a good combination of wheels, I think you will be blown away by how well they work. The 60 will leave pretty deep scratches so you will need to refine things on your 220 before going to the soft wheels.
I know the cost is staggering but you get a lot of diamond for that, well worth it in the long run.
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Post by rockjunquie on Sept 16, 2018 16:50:11 GMT -5
OK, so if I want to replace an 80 grit, then I should go with 60 grit? What I was reading made it sound the other way around. Would a 220 galaxy still remove the scratches? I wasn't planning on getting a sintered 220 or would that be 180? Are the inland wheels aluminum or steel? eta- Tommy answered my questions in another post. Except I read that the steel core inland wheels are too much for genie. Is that true? |
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Post by TheRock on Sept 16, 2018 22:15:54 GMT -5
OK, so if I want to replace an 80 grit, then I should go with 60 grit? What I was reading made it sound the other way around. Would a 220 galaxy still remove the scratches? I wasn't planning on getting a sintered 220 or would that be 180? Are the inland wheels aluminum or steel? eta- Tommy answered my questions in another post. Except I read that the steel core inland wheels are too much for genie. Is that true? Tela you will want to get a 60 Grit wheel. If you go Hahns wheels like I got they are 5mm thick on the Diamond and Bronze Thickness which from what I have seen are 1.5 to 2mm thicker than the others I have seen Including the one Tommy Got. If You are using 6" you will get off Cheaper they are $220.00 -vs- the $ 280.00 I Spent. Their shipping is a Killer lapidarytool.com/mall/lapidary-processing/lapidary-diamond-wheel/diamond-sintered-wheel/6-x1-1/2-60-grit-diamond-metal-bonded-grinding-wheel.html To my place its like 68.00 shipping but that's 3 days so they don't play they get it to ya quick. They also have soft wheels advertised to last 4 times longer than others. |
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Post by TheRock on Sept 16, 2018 22:18:40 GMT -5
** UPDATE ** I am getting a 60 Grit 180 Grit and 220 Grit They switched the 100 Grit Wheel to a 180 Grit for me! So I am more Better! |
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Sept 16, 2018 23:13:47 GMT -5
I bought Hans' 80 and 220 sintered wheels about seven or eight years ago. They have been great. No complaints over the quality of the wheels but I do wish I had ordered 60 and 180 grit wheels instead of 80 and 220. Sintered is definitely not as aggressive as an equal grit plated wheel. And I don't think going from a 180 sintered hard wheel to a 280 Nova sanding wheel would be too much of a leap.
One thing that should probably be noted though about Hans' wheels v.s. Inland's is that Hans' wheels have steel hubs and Inland's have aluminum hubs, so Hans' is much heavier. I use mine mounted on the section of the shaft between the two pillow block bearings of an old HP unit so the extra weight is not an issue for my machine. But it might would be on a Titan or Cab King style machine where the arbor extends out from the motor and is only supported on one end.
Larry C.
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Sept 17, 2018 10:15:10 GMT -5
I bought Hans' 80 and 220 sintered wheels about seven or eight years ago. They have been great. No complaints over the quality of the wheels but I do wish I had ordered 60 and 180 grit wheels instead of 80 and 220. Sintered is definitely not as aggressive as an equal grit plated wheel. And I don't think going from a 180 sintered hard wheel to a 280 Nova sanding wheel would be too much of a leap. One thing that should probably be noted though about Hans' wheels v.s. Inland's is that Hans' wheels have steel hubs and Inland's have aluminum hubs, so Hans' is much heavier. I use mine mounted on the section of the shaft between the two pillow block bearings of an old HP unit so the extra weight is not an issue for my machine. But it might would be on a Titan or Cab King style machine where the arbor extends out from the motor and is only supported on one end. Larry C. I am glad someone brought up the weight. The Chinese ones with steel cores weigh about 3 times what the inland ones with aluminum cores weigh. I would not want two or three of those heavy wheels hanging off one side of my machine and then three very light nova wheels on the other. I think if I were going to run sintered steel core wheels for 60 and 180 I would get a separate 2 wheel arbor and put one on each side. That also frees up room on the six wheel machine to add 50,000 and 100,000 wheels. I use galaxy wheels for my first two and I took those off the genie and moved them to a separate arbor long ago just to make room on the genie and to keep my shaping and finishing operations separate. 8" Galaxy wheels are listed at 5 pounds. Hans Lapidary sintered 8" wheels are listed at 17 pounds. Chuck |
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Post by johnjsgems on Sept 17, 2018 12:09:48 GMT -5
If sintered wheels get worn from improper use you can use a dressing stick to flatten them out. You will lose diamond though.
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slomoshun
starting to shine!
Experienced bad influence
Member since April 2018
Posts: 38
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Post by slomoshun on Sept 17, 2018 14:12:06 GMT -5
I’ll add my $.0002 here. Regarding the wearing of diamond wheels mentioned earlier, unless you are grinding a diamond the diamond chips in the wheel do not wear**. What happens with both plated and sintered wheels is that the chips fall off as the bonding material wears.
How long a plated wheel lasts is dependent upon the thickness of the nickel/diamond coating, and how much pressure you put against the wheel when grinding. Jamming the stone hard against the wheel wears the nickel faster. Moderate pressure and good irrigation makes a happier plated wheel.
As ‘pauls' mentioned, with thicker sintered wheels there are more layers of diamond as the bronze binder wears, so they obviously last longer. Although this doesn’t happen much in lapidary when grinding soft rock, in other applications where harder materials or metal are being abraded the cutting action of sintered can slow as the binder smears (burnishes). The fix for that is dressing the wheel with pressure and something like quartz which will wear away the bronze and expose fresh diamond. If you happen to groove a sintered wheel there are dressing widgets to smooth the surface, but the process reduces the life of the wheel.
Regarding cutting efficiency, with each having the same grit size plated wheels tend to cut faster than sintered. Ponder two common roadway pavements: asphalt, and chip seal. When laid, hot asphalt mix is spread and then rolled flat and smooth. With the cheaper chip seal road surface, asphalt emulsion is sprayed over a layer of crushed rock. The rolled asphalt road is a smoother drive because the rock is embedded in a binder, like a sintered wheel. The chip seal surface lacks the encapsulation so the surface is rough, like a plated wheel. It tends to wear down tires faster, or you if you fall off your bicycle on it.
** I have since seen images from an electron microscope which show that diamond particles on a lap or wheel can be affected from extended use and/or by heavy pressure. The wear is actually micro chipping of the diamond particle. Chipping creates a fresh sharp edge but it also lowers the particle’s height and takes it out of contact with the rock being cut. Fewer tall particles slows cutting action which typically promotes more pressure against the wheel…. which causes more chipping and eventually wheel death.
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Post by TheRock on Sept 17, 2018 14:31:04 GMT -5
Thank you all definitely something I didn't consider. I will just run the 60 grit on the left side and am researching 3 steel wheels NON SINTERED for the right side. |
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Post by TheRock on Sept 17, 2018 15:37:38 GMT -5
Does anyone know where to purchase 8" Steel Wheels in 600, 1200, 3000 grits? of course NON SINTERED.
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Sept 17, 2018 16:02:02 GMT -5
Does anyone know where to purchase 8" Steel Wheels in 600, 1200, 3000 grits? of course NON SINTERED. I am curious about this request. I am not sure I have ever heard that requested. Steel hard wheels in those grits would never work for me. Back in my flat lap days I hated using those hard diamond plates past 220. It is very difficult to get things to smooth out without being able to push into the soft padded wheels. basically there are facets (flats) created all of the cab at 220 and the those get smoothed by the 280 soft wheel. If they are hard to find in those grits there may be a reason? My only guess is that you want hard wheels so they last longer? I think you would regret it when it comes time to produce cabs if that is the case. Chuck |
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Post by TheRock on Sept 17, 2018 18:59:55 GMT -5
Well what I am trying to do is balance the weight on each side, but you are bringing up things that I am not considering. Back to the Drawing board.
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Keep your day time job, you would Starve being a comedian.
I decided to go with Hans because I received Some PM's about their products. I got a 60 grit ~ 100 Grit ~ and a 220 Grit. That will take care of the left side of the machine for now. 
