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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 2, 2018 12:21:47 GMT -5
If the hole is enlarged it should be fairly easy to bore an oversized hole and press in a bronze bushing. Fix before using the new blade unless you ae buying your blades from me. I can always use more sales. I hear every now and then of blade repair places in North West but 10" blade would not be feasible. 301 has high carbon tool steel core so I don't think you would be successful hammering it straight like the old mild steel core blades.
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Coxxxy
off to a rocking start
Member since October 2018
Posts: 19
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Post by Coxxxy on Oct 2, 2018 14:52:11 GMT -5
My ST-10 has similar play in it as Woodman’s does. I’ve been a little concerned about it, but the saw cuts fine, so I don’t think it’s necessarily a big problem. I'm starting to think mine just needs a good re-squaring on both arbor and sled. Would be nice to get that wobble out though. check with Tony Funk catmando his has lots of parts Thank ya. Is that a forum member or what? Lol. If the hole is enlarged it should be fairly easy to bore an oversized hole and press in a bronze bushing. Fix before using the new blade unless you ae buying your blades from me. I can always use more sales. I hear every now and then of blade repair places in North West but 10" blade would not be feasible. 301 has high carbon tool steel core so I don't think you would be successful hammering it straight like the old mild steel core blades. Haha. I have the bushing already so hope i can get that done pretty easy, may have to buy a larger OD, not sure yet. Thanks for the hammer info. Just heard of it but didnt know the technicals about it. Makes sense smaller blades are sorta outside feasibility. |
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Post by rockpickerforever on Oct 2, 2018 14:56:45 GMT -5
My ST-10 has similar play in it as Woodman’s does. I’ve been a little concerned about it, but the saw cuts fine, so I don’t think it’s necessarily a big problem. I'm starting to think mine just needs a good re-squaring on both arbor and sled. Would be nice to get that wobble out though. check with Tony Funk catmando his has lots of parts Thank ya. Is that a forum member or what? Lol. Yes. His screen name is catmandewe . |
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Coxxxy
off to a rocking start
Member since October 2018
Posts: 19
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Post by Coxxxy on Oct 2, 2018 14:59:53 GMT -5
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Post by woodman on Oct 2, 2018 18:37:55 GMT -5
Mine has had that wobble ever since I bought it 12 years ago and have had no problems with it cutting. Always knew it was there but never worried about it.
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gemfeller
Cave Dweller 
Member since June 2011
Posts: 4,062 
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Post by gemfeller on Oct 2, 2018 19:36:36 GMT -5
My LS-10 also has that wobble. Yet it's cut many thousands of square inches of slabs with no problems. It' a helluva workhorse little saw.
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Coxxxy
off to a rocking start
Member since October 2018
Posts: 19
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Post by Coxxxy on Oct 3, 2018 10:25:04 GMT -5
My LS-10 also has that wobble. Yet it's cut many thousands of square inches of slabs with no problems. It' a helluva workhorse little saw. Mine has had that wobble ever since I bought it 12 years ago and have had no problems with it cutting. Always knew it was there but never worried about it. Its starting to sound like i didnt square it properly to begin with. Thanks for the input ya'll. |
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Post by woodman on Oct 3, 2018 11:17:04 GMT -5
My LS-10 also has that wobble. Yet it's cut many thousands of square inches of slabs with no problems. It' a helluva workhorse little saw. Mine has had that wobble ever since I bought it 12 years ago and have had no problems with it cutting. Always knew it was there but never worried about it. Its starting to sound like i didnt square it properly to begin with. Thanks for the input ya'll. I like to camp a pointer or even a wood pencil in the vise and position it so that it just barely clears the blade at the from, then run the carriage all the way back while watching the pointer, it should stay the same. if not adjust till it does. also position the pointer as before and mark the blade at the pointer, then rotate the blade until the mark its at the back, again the clearance from the pointer to the blade should remain the same. I have also used a dial indicator to do this. goodluck |
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Post by roy on Oct 5, 2018 11:15:15 GMT -5
My ST-10 has similar play in it as Woodman’s does. I’ve been a little concerned about it, but the saw cuts fine, so I don’t think it’s necessarily a big problem. I'm starting to think mine just needs a good re-squaring on both arbor and sled. Would be nice to get that wobble out though. check with Tony Funk catmando his has lots of parts Thank ya. Is that a forum member or what? Lol. If the hole is enlarged it should be fairly easy to bore an oversized hole and press in a bronze bushing. Fix before using the new blade unless you ae buying your blades from me. I can always use more sales. I hear every now and then of blade repair places in North West but 10" blade would not be feasible. 301 has high carbon tool steel core so I don't think you would be successful hammering it straight like the old mild steel core blades. Haha. I have the bushing already so hope i can get that done pretty easy, may have to buy a larger OD, not sure yet. Thanks for the hammer info. Just heard of it but didnt know the technicals about it. Makes sense smaller blades are sorta outside feasibility. yes |
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Coxxxy
off to a rocking start
Member since October 2018
Posts: 19
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Post by Coxxxy on Oct 13, 2018 18:56:18 GMT -5
If the hole is enlarged it should be fairly easy to bore an oversized hole and press in a bronze bushing. Fix before using the new blade unless you ae buying your blades from me. I can always use more sales. I hear every now and then of blade repair places in North West but 10" blade would not be feasible. 301 has high carbon tool steel core so I don't think you would be successful hammering it straight like the old mild steel core blades. Got that bushing put in by a shop down the road. Solved the issue 100%. Got it squared properly and tightened up. Like a new saw. |
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