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Hi all. Im in need of refurbishing the feed table and sliding surfaces on my Lortone LS-10. Lotone said they didnt have ANY parts for LS-10's or eng. diagrams of the feed table ect in order to get one machined. They told me to find another used one. Id reather not. So im here in search of Some help finding a feed table for a LS-10. There is some good wear that allows left to right play that creates increasing pressure on the blade as the feed advances. I dont want to have to redo the old one but it may have to happen in the meantime if im forced to take drastic measures. Any insights or leads would be helpful.
I remeber seeing a thread, maybe not on this forum, where a memeber had photos of a faeed table he had machined. I cant locate it now though.
Could you clarify what you mean by "feed table?" Are you referring to the vise assembly, or is it the optional metal table that turns the LS-10 into a trim saw?
Hi all. Im in need of refurbishing the feed table and sliding surfaces on my Lortone LS-10. Lotone said they didnt have ANY parts for LS-10's or eng. diagrams of the feed table ect in order to get one machined. They told me to find another used one. Id reather not. So im here in search of Some help finding a feed table for a LS-10. There is some good wear that allows left to right play that creates increasing pressure on the blade as the feed advances. I dont want to have to redo the old one but it may have to happen in the meantime if im forced to take drastic measures. Any insights or leads would be helpful.
I remeber seeing a thread, maybe not on this forum, where a memeber had photos of a faeed table he had machined. I cant locate it now though.
Thanks guys/gals.
If you are getting increase side pressure on the blade as the carriage moves, Then I would suggest that you check the alignment of the blade first.
Ill do that for sure. I realize now that it wasn't in alignment to begin with. Its my first saw of this type and as imagined it cut good for about several weeks with the new blade then went to crap. Definitely learning from my mistakes. The table components that slide need replacing before the alignment can happen as theres VERY noticible play that i shouldve been fixed, i just wanted to cut something like a newbie!
ALSO: Ive got a dished blade if anyone knows a blade fixer as ive got a month old 10" 301 thats dished slightly, lol.
What parts are worn that allow that left to right play? I got an old ls10 and don't have any problems with it. Ifa the alignment of the blade arbor is off, that may be why your new blade is dished. I don't know anyone who repairs blades any more and anyway a 10 inch one may be cheaper to replace than repair.
What parts are worn that allow that left to right play? I got an old ls10 and don't have any problems with it. Ifa the alignment of the blade arbor is off, that may be why your new blade is dished. I don't know anyone who repairs blades any more and anyway a 10 inch one may be cheaper to replace than repair.
The bar that the table rides (in and out) has worn the hole SIGNIFICANTLY. I put an extra "support" screw on the bottom but it doesn't fix it as im just pushing into the worn groove.
What parts are worn that allow that left to right play? I got an old ls10 and don't have any problems with it. Ifa the alignment of the blade arbor is off, that may be why your new blade is dished. I don't know anyone who repairs blades any more and anyway a 10 inch one may be cheaper to replace than repair.
The bar that the table rides (in and out) has worn the hole SIGNIFICANTLY. I put an extra "support" screw on the bottom but it doesn't fix it as im just pushing into the worn groove.
I would have to take mine apart to see what it looks like but have too much on the table right now to do so. a good machine shop should be able to make a bushing for that, finding the true center might be a problem tho.
Hi all. Im in need of refurbishing the feed table and sliding surfaces on my Lortone LS-10. Lotone said they didnt have ANY parts for LS-10's or eng. diagrams of the feed table ect in order to get one machined. They told me to find another used one. Id reather not. So im here in search of Some help finding a feed table for a LS-10. There is some good wear that allows left to right play that creates increasing pressure on the blade as the feed advances. I dont want to have to redo the old one but it may have to happen in the meantime if im forced to take drastic measures. Any insights or leads would be helpful.
I remeber seeing a thread, maybe not on this forum, where a memeber had photos of a faeed table he had machined. I cant locate it now though.
Thanks guys/gals.
For a temp fix, how about using a small c-clamp to tighten after rock is set, then remove clamp and feed rock, then re-tighten. The trick is finding the correct two spots to clamp to eliminate the "wobble". It's not elegant, but it could work. I have an old LS-10 that I have not run in 5 years. Will open up tomorrow and see if I can figure something out as mine had the same problem. Fixing it on mine might put it back in the active fleet.
A made to fit bushing would be much better. 30 years ago in my old neighborhood there were several machinist who would have made me something in short order. These days, everything has gone high-tech and small little one-off projects are not on the agenda.
There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, Than are dreamt of in your philosophy.
Hi all. Im in need of refurbishing the feed table and sliding surfaces on my Lortone LS-10. Lotone said they didnt have ANY parts for LS-10's or eng. diagrams of the feed table ect in order to get one machined. They told me to find another used one. Id reather not. So im here in search of Some help finding a feed table for a LS-10. There is some good wear that allows left to right play that creates increasing pressure on the blade as the feed advances. I dont want to have to redo the old one but it may have to happen in the meantime if im forced to take drastic measures. Any insights or leads would be helpful.
I remeber seeing a thread, maybe not on this forum, where a memeber had photos of a faeed table he had machined. I cant locate it now though.
Thanks guys/gals.
For a temp fix, how about using a small c-clamp to tighten after rock is set, then remove clamp and feed rock, then re-tighten. The trick is finding the correct two spots to clamp to eliminate the "wobble". It's not elegant, but it could work. I have an old LS-10 that I have not run in 5 years. Will open up tomorrow and see if I can figure something out as mine had the same problem. Fixing it on mine might put it back in the active fleet.
A made to fit bushing would be much better. 30 years ago in my old neighborhood there were several machinist who would have made me something in short order. These days, everything has gone high-tech and small little one-off projects are not on the agenda.
That sounds like a great temp plan. Thank you for the suggestion. New blade gets here tomo. Will hold me over till i find someone to do a "hard fix".
On the bottom large rail I "think" there is an adjustment for the slop in my photo, but it may change the 90 degree blade to sled setting, but this is uncharted territory for me.
For a temp fix, how about using a small c-clamp to tighten after rock is set, then remove clamp and feed rock, then re-tighten. The trick is finding the correct two spots to clamp to eliminate the "wobble". It's not elegant, but it could work. I have an old LS-10 that I have not run in 5 years. Will open up tomorrow and see if I can figure something out as mine had the same problem. Fixing it on mine might put it back in the active fleet.
A made to fit bushing would be much better. 30 years ago in my old neighborhood there were several machinist who would have made me something in short order. These days, everything has gone high-tech and small little one-off projects are not on the agenda.
That sounds like a great temp plan. Thank you for the suggestion. New blade gets here tomo. Will hold me over till i find someone to do a "hard fix".
I would check the blade to sled alignment before using your new blade.
For a temp fix, how about using a small c-clamp to tighten after rock is set, then remove clamp and feed rock, then re-tighten. The trick is finding the correct two spots to clamp to eliminate the "wobble". It's not elegant, but it could work. I have an old LS-10 that I have not run in 5 years. Will open up tomorrow and see if I can figure something out as mine had the same problem. Fixing it on mine might put it back in the active fleet.
A made to fit bushing would be much better. 30 years ago in my old neighborhood there were several machinist who would have made me something in short order. These days, everything has gone high-tech and small little one-off projects are not on the agenda.
That sounds like a great temp plan. Thank you for the suggestion. New blade gets here tomo. Will hold me over till i find someone to do a "hard fix".
Word of caution, test out the clamping method without a rock and move the carriage back and forth through it's cutting range to make sure that movement is not restricted. You don't want to burn up the feed drive motor. or run the clamp into the blade!!
There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, Than are dreamt of in your philosophy.
A made to fit bushing would be much better. 30 years ago in my old neighborhood there were several machinist who would have made me something in short order. These days, everything has gone high-tech and small little one-off projects are not on the agenda.
That sounds like a great temp plan. Thank you for the suggestion. New blade gets here tomo. Will hold me over till i find someone to do a "hard fix".[/quote] I have that brass bushing, just need to try to fix i guess. Looks like thats whats needed at a minimum though.
On the bottom large rail I "think" there is an adjustment for the slop in my photo, but it may change the 90 degree blade to sled setting, but this is uncharted territory for me.
Yes, there is. Im pretty sure i tried that and couldn't get the front/back slack completely out. Will investigate more today.
Word of caution, test out the clamping method without a rock and move the carriage back and forth through it's cutting range to make sure that movement is not restricted. You don't want to burn up the feed drive motor. or run the clamp into the blade!!
My ST-10 has similar play in it as Woodman’s does. I’ve been a little concerned about it, but the saw cuts fine, so I don’t think it’s necessarily a big problem.
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rocknrob: That was one heck of a windstorm that thankfully missed me. I guess Seatac almost hit 60mph gusts. I bet those were some fun landings
Nov 20, 2024 21:55:16 GMT -5
rocknrob: I'll always love my pet rock, he's such a geode boy.
Nov 22, 2024 9:27:33 GMT -5
Welcome to the Rock Tumbling Hobby Forum where we share a love of rocks and a sense of community as enduring as the stones we polish.
The RTH Forum of www.RockTumbling.com is an Amazon Associate site and we earn money from
qualifying purchases you make after clicking on our links such as this
Rock Tumbling Supplies on Amazon
link for instance, or any of our various product ads and banners. By clicking our links every time you begin your Amazon shopping
experience, you are generating a bit of revenue for the forum which helps us cover our expenses. Thank you for your support!
