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Post by sophia13 on Oct 4, 2018 7:32:36 GMT -5
Does anyone have instructions on how to set up an aquarium pump/5 gallon bucket drip system for a cabbing unit? Tried looking for but couldn't find online. Thank you.
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Oct 4, 2018 9:04:48 GMT -5
Just hooked up the first one I've ever tried here. Ordered an 80 GPH pump with 4-5 foot lift. Wanted that lift height so I could keep the bucket beneath the workbench instead of taking up workspace.
First trial run told me 80 GPH is probably more than necessary. I think 40 GPH would be good, but couldn't find one with enough lift. Someone with more experience with these will surely be able to help you more.
There are lapidary pump systems available, but I went with the less expensive option. Tubing and valves will cost a few bucks, depending on how yours will be set up. That's about all I know so far, so I'll be watching this thread too.
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Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,907
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Post by Tommy on Oct 4, 2018 9:39:18 GMT -5
I built my own system for about $20 (mostly out of parts I already had) but I wouldn't call it a drip - it's pressurized when I want it to be. In summary - I picked up a free 29 gallon glass aquarium off Craigslist and glued in a plexiglass divider six inches from the left, with a one inch opening slot at the bottom creating a return chamber filter stuffed with polyfiber from old pillows. Three bottom tray drains flow waste water into this into this filter chamber unless I'm rough grinding something nasty in which case I pull out the hose and drain into a bucket for disposal. The water is delivered by a cheap impeller type aquarium pump which lives at the bottom of the main aquarium chamber. I think is 120 gph but I can't remember and it's been running for a few years and Ebay purchase history has dropped off. Water is sent through 1/2 clear vinyl hose up to a manifold above the machines that I made from 2" PVC with "drip" lines dropped to the machines. On the return side of the manifold I have a diverter valve and when it close it water is forced to the machines. When the diverter valve is open the pump is continuously looping water from the aquarium up through the chamber and back. Edited: I tracked down and added the link to the aquarium pump I used
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 4, 2018 11:36:08 GMT -5
You can use brass needle valves (1/4" compression is what I use with copper tubing). I use angled valves, 1/4" compression on one side and 1/8" pipe on the other. On a thin tin hood I think it is a 3/8" hole and pipe fitting side will thread right into the tin. Tees as needed. A barb fitting at inlet to hook up plastic hose from submersible pump. If you don't recycle the water any submersible pump with enough lift will work. As stated before if not enough lift you will need to have bucket and pump on table. Before I moved here I tapped into a washing machine cold water supply and avoided the pump and supply bucket. As I added equipment the garage looked a little bit like a mad scientist's workshop. The fittings are easily found at hardware store. Pumps generally found as "fountain pumps". Aquarium pumps generally are air pumps. Use separate waste water bucket and treat your landscaping with the mineral rich water.
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goatgrinder
spending too much on rocks
Make mine a man cave
Member since January 2017
Posts: 368
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Post by goatgrinder on Oct 4, 2018 18:53:10 GMT -5
I have an 8 gallon hanging kitty litter bucket. I drilled and assembled the valves and hoses and tapped on each wheel. Times three for my big, medium, and small grinders. Pressure is more than decent and the entire kit cost under $20 (for each of three kits). But then I don't spend as much time in the basement and many of you so I don't need fancy.
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goatgrinder
spending too much on rocks
Make mine a man cave
Member since January 2017
Posts: 368
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Post by goatgrinder on Oct 4, 2018 19:07:58 GMT -5
Oh, and it's the same deal for my saws and rotating lap. Cheers.
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