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Post by rockjunquie on Nov 17, 2018 11:22:38 GMT -5
My 220 lasts a very long time. I wonder if you should be taking more off with 80 before you get to the 220? Can't help with your questions. Sorry.
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sophia13
spending too much on rocks
RIP Jason Strickland, AKA sophia13
Member since March 2018
Posts: 327
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Post by sophia13 on Nov 17, 2018 12:15:10 GMT -5
I preform and get to shape on the 80 and start doming with the 220. Have been starting dome with 80 since 220 started to poop. 6 here half dozen there I suppose. Gonna invest in two sintered I believe. Thanks
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hummingbirdstones2
fully equipped rock polisher
Vince A., 1958-2023
Member since August 2018
Posts: 1,461
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Nov 17, 2018 20:08:38 GMT -5
Yeah, the 220 should be for smoothing out the 80-grit grind marks and minor removal of material. If you're actually shaping the dome profile on the 220 that is a lot of extra wear.
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Post by rockjunquie on Nov 17, 2018 21:37:34 GMT -5
I only use my 220 for removing 80 grit scratches.
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minerken
Cave Dweller
Member since August 2013
Posts: 466
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Post by minerken on Nov 17, 2018 23:49:48 GMT -5
with the above 220 only to clean up after 80
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hummingbirdstones2
fully equipped rock polisher
Vince A., 1958-2023
Member since August 2018
Posts: 1,461
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Nov 18, 2018 10:05:02 GMT -5
Yeah, especially on harder stones like the agates you mentioned.
Some soft stones would start on the 220, but otherwise it's like rockjunquie and minerken said.
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 18, 2018 17:40:59 GMT -5
Don't do the doming on the 220. I do all my shaping on the first wheel, which is a sintered 60 grit. All I do on any subsequent wheel is fine tune the shape & remove scratches from the previous wheel. I've had my 220 plated wheel for 6 years. Several hundred/thousand cabs. Lynn
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Post by socalagatehound on Nov 18, 2018 19:54:57 GMT -5
I only use my 220 for removing 80 grit scratches. Yup!
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sophia13
spending too much on rocks
RIP Jason Strickland, AKA sophia13
Member since March 2018
Posts: 327
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Post by sophia13 on Nov 18, 2018 20:16:05 GMT -5
I was afraid of taking off too much but you guys have a bazillion cabs worth of knowledge so I shall change it up Should speed things up for me Thanks all …..still think I'm gonna ask Santa for some sintered wheels
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gemfeller
Cave Dweller
Member since June 2011
Posts: 3,813
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Post by gemfeller on Nov 19, 2018 17:41:16 GMT -5
One word of warning about doing all your doming on 80 or 100 grit. I try to avoid deep scratches on the very top portion of my cab domes because they're annoyingly difficult to remove in later stages. I complete them on a 220 hard wheel and that saves a lot of frustration. Ditto on the backs of cabs. Depending on the slab surface I start grinding them flat on 220 hard or even 600 soft.
I use Neosint steel sintered wheels on my Genie and I'm very pleased with them. For some reason unknown to me Kingsley-North is closing them out and they have sale prices on selected grits/diameters. I've also heard good things about sintered wheels from Han Lapidary in China but haven't personally used them.
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 19, 2018 18:28:51 GMT -5
One word of warning about doing all your doming on 80 or 100 grit. I try to avoid deep scratches on the very top portion of my cab domes because they're annoyingly difficult to remove in later stages. I complete them on a 220 hard wheel and that saves a lot of frustration. Ditto on the backs of cabs. Depending on the slab surface I start grinding them flat on 220 hard or even 600 soft. I use Neosint steel sintered wheels on my Genie and I'm very pleased with them. For some reason unknown to me Kingsley-North is closing them out and they have sale prices on selected grits/diameters. I've also heard good things about sintered wheels from Han Lapidary in China but haven't personally used them. I never let that first wheel touch the center of the dome. Deep scratch doo-doo! The center gets worked on the 120 or even the 360 hard wheel I have. Lynn
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hummingbirdstones2
fully equipped rock polisher
Vince A., 1958-2023
Member since August 2018
Posts: 1,461
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Nov 19, 2018 20:11:48 GMT -5
Yeah, what gemfeller and zarguy said!
That's the "minor material removal" I was talking about. Like these two preceding posts say, you don't want to work your dome profile all the way down on that coarse 80-grit wheel. On the other hand, you don't want to do all the rough shaping of the dome on the 220. Just get it close with the 80 and finish it with the 220.
Sorry I'm not better at explaining things. I'd be a really bad teacher... .
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Post by As I in does tries! on Dec 5, 2018 7:00:23 GMT -5
I use 60 Sintered hard only for de-skining hard agates that I cannot be bothered cutting with a saw, 280 sintered hard for preforming, 600 soft, 1200 soft, 3000 Soft then expando drum for 14000 and 50000 if required.
The sintered wheels came from Hans Lapidary in China and had an uneven bore 25mm - 25.4mm and not balanced, so they would damage your arbor over time, my 6" x 1.5" weighs 4.4kg(9.68lb) each.
At home it takes around ten minutes to setup the saw and another ten minutes to empty, dry off and put away, I am using soft water as coolant.
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Post by johnjsgems on Dec 5, 2018 12:07:50 GMT -5
Neosint wheels were a Reentel product (manufacturer of CabKing). They bought Inland last year so dropped Neosint line and sellin the Inland sintered (Neosit was a Chinese made less expensive copy of Inland).
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Post by stephan on Dec 5, 2018 17:32:36 GMT -5
Yeah, the 220 should be for smoothing out the 80-grit grind marks and minor removal of material. If you're actually shaping the dome profile on the 220 that is a lot of extra wear. That depends on the material. For hard stones like agate and jasper, yes, use the 80 to shape. For softer material (like lepidolite or seraphinite), or stones that are prone to splintering (like sodalite) or under-cutting (like many moss agates), I will shape with the 220.
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hummingbirdstones2
fully equipped rock polisher
Vince A., 1958-2023
Member since August 2018
Posts: 1,461
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Dec 5, 2018 19:21:17 GMT -5
Yeah, most people figure it out pretty quick when a stone starts disappearing or blows up when it hits the 80.
Looks like the initial post in this thread has been removed, where he specifically mentioned cutting mainly agates. Cutting softer stones was mentioned in 2-3 later posts.
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