bmw2003
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2018
Posts: 14 
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Post by bmw2003 on Dec 30, 2018 14:35:20 GMT -5
I was fortunate to get a bunch of this stone recently at a rock sale. The rough mostly fits my 10" oil cooled saw which allowed me to cut some ok slabs. It did not fracture all that much when slabbing the material, but when I started to cut pre-forms for cabbing, it would fracture while cutting. Now I do realize this material is basically a copper salt based composite of cuprite, and chrysocolla, but it also features some azurite, and some other silicates. Any suggestions about the best way to trim the material? I really do not want to go through and try to stabilize these slabs to see if that would help, but maybe there is no choice. Would thin kerf saw blades have any appreciable advantage?
This is very beautiful material and I was able to cab these easily on an Expando with 100/220g SiC belts to get a nice preform. In looking up this material on the web, I see many folks calling this stone "Sonoran Sunrise"? Any suggestions from members who have worked with this stone would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Post by vegasjames on Dec 30, 2018 21:04:30 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum.
Keep in mind that a lot of the copper ores were mined using blasting, which can create fractures in the stone. If I have pieces that break when cutting them I often free form the pieces.
If your pieces are fracturing too badly then you may need to stabilize the pieces or maybe back them.
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bmw2003
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2018
Posts: 14
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Post by bmw2003 on Jan 1, 2019 16:03:37 GMT -5
Thanks James. I always consider your advice and expertise on copper ore type stones, and many others for that matter. Thanks again!
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Don
Cave Dweller 
He wants you too, Malachi.
Member since December 2009
Posts: 2,616
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Post by Don on Jan 2, 2019 0:10:09 GMT -5
You could always back it with something stronger. I chased the chrysocolla dragon for a few years and came to the conclusion that most of it should be stabilized or backed to maximize cutability.
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Post by vegasjames on Jan 2, 2019 0:40:03 GMT -5
You could always back it with something stronger. I chased the chrysocolla dragon for a few years and came to the conclusion that most of it should be stabilized or backed to maximize cutability. If actual chrysocolla then definitely since chrysocolla is soft mineral. The term "chrysocolla" though also gets loosely used for a variety of unidentified copper minerals, which can vary a lot in hardness and stability. |
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 2, 2019 11:19:56 GMT -5
Any thin high quality lapidary blade should trim it if the slab saw blade doesn't. Are you using a tile blade?
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bmw2003
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2018
Posts: 14
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Post by bmw2003 on Jan 2, 2019 11:26:13 GMT -5
I agree with both James and Don. I got frustrated with chrysocolla many years ago. Arizona stichtite and larimar are some others. I received this batch of cuprite and Chrysocolla awhile back and it sat in my garage for several months. I have seen James' parrot wing and other copper ores which inspired me to cut this material and start the polishing process. James is right. You can salvage many of the stones by going slower, and accepting a percentage of waste. A large piece had some fracture issues, but did not break entirely or turn to rubble. It cabbed up nicely. I am usiing SiC belts and an expando. Keeps the banging around issue to a minimum.
The initial grinding/ polishing process without backing or stabilization seems to be working out. I hate the resin smell of opticon, and I have had my fill with backing larimar. That was an ordeal.
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bmw2003
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2018
Posts: 14
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Post by bmw2003 on Jan 2, 2019 11:34:13 GMT -5
Thanks John. No, I am using a standard 10" continuous MK303 blade. A guy up in Prescott designs thin kerf blades for cutting opal and other material where you want to get the most of the stone. I have wanted an excuse to buy one, so I wanted someone else to justify my so called reasoning.
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Jan 3, 2019 12:14:34 GMT -5
Aaaaah, bmw2003, you now have THE PERFECT EXCUSE to acquire another toy! You need a smaller saw. A little trim saw of one sort or another. Then when you put a 4" or 5" 303b blade on it, the blade will be nice and then. That won't help with your fracturing much though, lol. |
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bmw2003
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2018
Posts: 14
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Post by bmw2003 on Jan 3, 2019 12:58:01 GMT -5
You are definitely right, Blue Sky. I do have a 6" trim saw, in a Star Diamond combo unit. It is a great piece of equipment. The only problem is that in winter, I am in the desert foot hills near Cave Creek, AZ and in the summer, I have a small place in the Puget Sound where I keep the 6" saw.
Winter here this year has been, well, not typical AZ weather. I hope it warms up in Q in the next few weeks. Thanks for your response.
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Fossilman
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,723
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Post by Fossilman on Jan 3, 2019 15:24:34 GMT -5
Trim saw with very thin blades, is the ticket...I like the 6" I bought..
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