don
off to a rocking start
Member since January 2019
Posts: 9
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Post by don on Feb 1, 2019 14:11:46 GMT -5
Q1: I will be purchasing a 6 inch Lortone tumbler. The Rock Shed sells 2 sizes of ceramics for tumbling. Which would you recommends for a 6 inch tumbler?
1) An angle cut cylinders measuring 3/8" x 5/8" and can be used in all steps from start to finish; and
2) An angle cut cylinders measuring 5/32" x 5/16"and can be used in all steps from start to finish.
Q2: Does a anyone use a mixture of ceramics and pea gravel in the first two stages?
Thanks for your help.
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Wooferhound
Cave Dweller 
Lortone QT66 and 3A
Member since December 2016
Posts: 1,434 
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Post by Wooferhound on Feb 1, 2019 14:45:47 GMT -5
Using a QT66 with dual 6 pound barrels here.
I don't use anything in the first 2 stages , just rocks, water & grit.
Only use plastic beads in all the remaining stages.
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70karmann
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2011
Posts: 190
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Post by 70karmann on Feb 1, 2019 19:46:07 GMT -5
I only use the ceramic when polishing soft stones.
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El JeffA
spending too much on rocks
Member since February 2016
Posts: 353
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Post by El JeffA on Feb 1, 2019 22:09:21 GMT -5
When I started out, I bought both sizes but I don’t use them in rough grind stage either. I only use them in final stages in the Lot-O. I no longer purchase the smaller size as the larger size gets reduced over time. I did mix the sizes and still do as they wear down. I tried the aquarium gravel but got more junk than agate sized pea gravel. Separating was too tedious for me. The ceramic really does help in cushioning the rocks.
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,663
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Post by jamesp on Feb 2, 2019 7:22:01 GMT -5
Using ceramics in step 1 is not necessary.
It just wears good ceramic media down and wastes grit.
Best to get the right kind of ceramic media(non-abrasive) thru the Rock Shed.
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gatorflash1
spending too much on rocks
Active in Delaware Mineralogical Society, Cabchon Grinding and Polishing, 2 Thumlers B's and a UV-18
Member since October 2018
Posts: 375
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Post by gatorflash1 on Feb 2, 2019 10:03:16 GMT -5
Here's my $.02.
I use mixed ceramic blend in all my stages. I usually tumble agate and related, hard stuff. The shape and hardness (mohs 9+) of the mixed ceramic media allows it to carry the grinding grit into all the little spaces on your rough that would not be reached by the grit clinging to you other much larger rough stones. That is why I use it. It helps to spread and pressure the grit to make for better grit grinding on my rough rocks. Some of the smaller ceramic pieces are formed with 45 degree angle ends which really reach into all those small crevices on your rough stone. The ceramic media lasts just about forever so you can reuse the same ceramic media for most of your media after giving it a good cleaning first. I would recommend getting the mixed blend if you go with it. In the polishing stages, because it is small, it seems to act as a buffer/cushion and doesn't cause any scratching.
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Post by gmitch067 on Feb 2, 2019 14:23:54 GMT -5
The only time I use ceramics in the first stage (80 grit load) is to wear down the sharp edges of end cuts so the hard ceramics does not scratch softer stones during later stages. After that the use of ceramics in the first stage loads is not necessary. For that first stage just use rocks - and more rocks.
I DO use ceramics as a filler and cushion throughout all remaining polish stages... the smaller ceramics as the "cushion" for fragile stones (like glass and obsidian... and smaller tumbled stones), and the larger ceramics as a "filler" after the first stage. As time goes by, the large and small ceramics get mixed together and wear down - getting so small that their separation becomes tedious. I now just leave them mixed together.
I am still unsure of when and when-not to use pea gravel (aquarium gravel)... still getting 50/50 polish results there when using it in a rotary tumbler... seems to work best when I do 80-grit and 220-grit stages of obsidian and glass stones for shaping, but not so well during the final polishing stages (for those stages I use mainly small ceramics or plastic beads). If you do end up trying aquarium gravel, run them separately from the first 80-grit stage to final polish stage before using them as a substitute for ceramics... otherwise their roughness will cause more harm than good.
I still use plastic beads as a cushion in the final polish stage when rotary tumbling obsidian and glass (especially Apache Tears). I only use them in the rotary tumbler... Their use in the vibratory tumbler became VERY messy+++ so I do not use plastic beads in the vibratory tumblers.
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agatemaggot
Cave Dweller
Member since August 2006
Posts: 2,195
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Post by agatemaggot on Feb 2, 2019 16:26:22 GMT -5
I used actual de-burring media (cylinders ) 3/8 x 5/8 for removing burrs and other sharp edges from machined steel parts.
I did my finish shaping on a 220 grit wheel and then started with 220 grit and the Ceramics. I ran Cabs 24 hours in 220 then 24 hours each grit up to 600. After the 600 I ran 24 hours with polish called (TXP) I purchased from Minnesota lapidary Supply. I have a larger Vibro unit that is rated at 18 lbs but when full of Cabs and grit I imagine the load in there would have the Manufacture's wringing their hands. I liked the TXP final polish because you only use 1/3rd
as much as the other grits and it is not any more expensive. 24 hours does (NOT) seem to be long enough in anyone's
book but with all the weight bearing down it makes the grit work very quickly, the finish always turned out like glass
and that included the ceramic de-burring stone believe it or not. I did have one problem, after I had all the de-burring stones polished (50 lbs. ) worth, I had to run my metal parts an extra 24 hours to remove the shine and get them cutting the steel parts again !
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gatorflash1
spending too much on rocks
Active in Delaware Mineralogical Society, Cabchon Grinding and Polishing, 2 Thumlers B's and a UV-18
Member since October 2018
Posts: 375
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Post by gatorflash1 on Feb 3, 2019 9:18:51 GMT -5
What is TXP polish made from?
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Post by aDave on Feb 3, 2019 16:41:58 GMT -5
What is TXP polish made from? Aluminum oxide. |
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agatemaggot
Cave Dweller
Member since August 2006
Posts: 2,195
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Post by agatemaggot on Feb 3, 2019 17:09:24 GMT -5
I myself don't know , but I believe aDave is right ! I ask Val Carver at Minnesota Lapidary and he wasn't sure but stated it had 3 different components in it. Whatever it is it is reasonably priced , polishes fast and takes very little to get the job done, you use 1/3 rd the amount as your regular type grits. I polished a lot of Cabs in my Vibro unit and had the quickest and best results with the (TXP )! You could split a # with a couple buddies and do some cheap research, that way your not out an arm or leg. It is formulated for harder stones and anything that can put a Glass like finish on abrasive grinding stones has got to be efficient ! If you are using one of the more well known polishes and like the results don't fix it, but, if you would like to check it out and possibly save a bit of time, try it. I personally liked the time saving part because Mom was wrapping 6 to 10 Cabs a day and I was hard pressed to keep up with her with the tumbler finishing ! When the wife (Mom) gets an interest in something, she is like a little kid and a big mud puddle, she doesen't ease into it, she jumps in with both feet and gets it all over herself !
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