luke
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2014
Posts: 20
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Post by luke on Feb 17, 2019 21:02:20 GMT -5
Hello, I’ve been researching saw options for slicing smaller stones (2-4”) into tumbling and cabbing material and I need some help. I’ve been using a 4” harbor freight tile saw which sort of gets the job done but is very noisy, messy, and difficult to cut bigger pieces. It just doesn’t feel like the right tool for the job. I’d like something I can run indoors while safely and reliably slice up some stones.
To to this point from what I’ve read on this site I’m considering a Rock Rascal model J trim saw and MK-170. The Rock Rascal is only a 6” blade and seems better suited for trimming slabs, the MK-170 looks to be similar to what I have now just bigger and potentially more capable.
Can someone offer advise on which way to go here? Should I be considering something a little bigger and more expensive like the TS-8 or BD7? I’ve read the Hitech saw isn’t reliable. Any help would be great.
Thanks
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Post by manofglass on Feb 17, 2019 21:10:17 GMT -5
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Feb 17, 2019 22:03:39 GMT -5
Sounds like you really would want a 10" saw.
Think if I was buying a new one I'd get a Lortone TS-10C, but any old used 10" would do what you want.
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Post by grumpybill on Feb 18, 2019 7:33:54 GMT -5
I have an ancient 10" overhead tile saw I use outdoors, weather permitting. I bought it used for low $$$ from a tool rental place. I currently have an MK/BD 305 "Agate Kutter" blade on it that I like better than any tile blade I've tried. I recently bought a Rock Rascal J for winter/indoor use. I haven't used it enough to really comment on, other than to say it's quiet and that it doesn't make any mess. Kingsley North had the best price.
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mikeinsjc
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2010
Posts: 329
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Post by mikeinsjc on Feb 18, 2019 18:48:36 GMT -5
luke, get something with an auto feed. You will get bored with this hobby very quickly having to tediously hand feed a 2" rock through a trim saw. The resulting surface will leave the rock useless for anything but tumbling.
I would stay away from combo units. I have never seen a decent saw on the end of a combo setup.
Tile saws don't seem like the right tool for the job probably because they aren't. I'm amazed at their proliferation among lapidaries. Again, you are stuck with hand-feeding. If you do decide to polish a slab that you've cut on a tile saw, good luck, as it will likely be so rough you will never get the saw marks out. Different machines, different blades, different intended purposes.
Get the biggest saw $ and space allow. I have never heard anyone complain about their saw being too big. Be aware you pretty much get what you pay for. Generally, I would say any new saw costing a grand will probably accomplish what you desire, but just be aware for that money the feed, carriage assembly, and vise will likely be unimpressive. If you find an 18" Highland Park used, get it. You will not regret it.
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NevadaBill
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2019
Posts: 1,332
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Post by NevadaBill on Feb 18, 2019 19:43:10 GMT -5
Good advice so far here. I am also looking for the same kind of thing, and not decided yet. My 2 favorite contenders are the MK-170, and a PorterCable PCE980.
1) Noise is a consideration 2) Water spillage is a consideration 3) Looking primarily at a water lube saw, and not really wanting to get in to oil
Don't really want to turn this in to a Slab Saw, but ultimately I will be "cabbing", and will buy a Slab Saw.
Some of my confusion is why you can buy a table top wet tile saw between $159 and $229, where most can do this. And an actual trim saw from a "Highland Park", "Covington", "Lortone", "Barranca Diamond", are all like $450-$650 for a 6" or saw of the similar circumference.
I could buy a $3000, high end 18+" saw with quality feed, fence, from an ace manufacturer. But I'm afraid the wife would have me sleeping in the garage next to it.
[edit] Did not mean to Hyjack this thread. I wish I could contribute more information.
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Feb 18, 2019 20:15:23 GMT -5
Heh - anything with "lapidary" in the description will have the price jacked up relative to the same equipment for other purposes.
Just as an example, Robin's "reloading" vibe tumbler cost a lot less than similar size "lapidary" vibe tumblers.
A word or two about hand-feeding saws. Sometimes it's the only way to get the orientation you want, or the vise just won't hold the stone. A simple sheet-metal angle "fence" to give you even slices yields good results.
Many slabs I've posted on here were hand-fed. All it takes is a steady hand and the correct size saw. With a decent blade, of course.
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luke
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2014
Posts: 20
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Post by luke on Feb 18, 2019 22:44:13 GMT -5
Thanks for the advise here, I’m still undecided however. I agree with the notion of buying the biggest saw possible. I sort of wish I had somewhere to test drive a few of these saws but unfortunately don’t know of anywhere. There isn’t much of a used gear market in my corner of the Midwest (Cincinnati) either.
I thought the power feed saws were reserved for cutting large stones that’s took 30+ minutes or for more valuable rough?
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 19, 2019 0:39:43 GMT -5
For slabbing indoors you're going to need a saw with a hood. And since you're wanting a trim saw too you may consider a 10" combination trim/slab saw. Any brand with a totally enclosed hood would do (with the exception of Covington's 10" which has a history of problems). I've had dozens of used saws that I acquired in collections that I've bought and sold over the years and the one combination model I always keep one around for myself to use indoors is a Raytech deluxe 10" trim/slab saw. In addition to a clear Plexiglas hood it has a removable plastic sump pan and is easy to clean. So if I want to cut a porous material with water or just trim a few slabs in the winter indoors using water I can and with a quick easy clean-up and dry-out afterwards. (I do use Raycool as a water additive to help prevent rust). And in warm weather it goes into the non-climate controlled building I keep my larger slabs saws in to use as a slab saw with oil. Or if I want to trim slabs with oil in warm weather it's light weight enough that I can carry it out and set it on a table under a shade tree and have at it trimming slabs. Raytech lapidary products have been around for close to 50 years and had a good reputation until back in the late 80s or early 90s when a shooters supply company who only wanted the Raytech line for the vibrating tumblers to sell to their ammo reloading customers bought them out. The shooter's supply company had no interest in lapidary and let the lapidary line and customer service diminish somewhat. But in recent years the rights to produce most of the Raytech lapidary line of products has been purchased by Rick Scott who is the son of the man who originally produced the Raytech-Shaw faceting machines for Raytech. I've had a few phone conversations with Rick and he is a lapidary enthusiast himself and has always been happily helpful in answering questions. Here is a link to some of his lapidary products and contact information if anyone is interested: rick8260.wixsite.com/raytechsawLarry C.
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Feb 19, 2019 7:59:34 GMT -5
There ya' go! An old Raytech 6" is my favorite small saw. If I bought a new 10" the Raytech would be the one.
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NevadaBill
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2019
Posts: 1,332
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Post by NevadaBill on Feb 19, 2019 11:41:54 GMT -5
Great write up on the Raytech unit there, Quailriver! I would be interested to know if this Raytech 10" water/oil saw (equipped with proper Agate Kutter or equivalent), will make SHORT WORK of trimming down the stock (sometimes 2" - 3" in size) that I am going to throw in the tumbler?? I guess that would mean getting soaked with water, very likely though too. Hmm. Just looking to hand feed smaller materials at this time, preform cabs later. [Edit] Found an RTH forum thread that helps describe Raytech L-10S here: forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/42482
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NevadaBill
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2019
Posts: 1,332
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Post by NevadaBill on Feb 19, 2019 12:15:15 GMT -5
Also, Luke, with regards to "I sort of wish I had somewhere to test drive a few of these saws", you might want to contact or meet up with one of your local Rock clubs in your area.
Some of them have nice machine shops which, in some cases, might even offer you access to use the machinery for a very small price.
Just an idea.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 20, 2019 1:47:43 GMT -5
Great write up on the Raytech unit there, Quailriver! I would be interested to know if this Raytech 10" water/oil saw (equipped with proper Agate Kutter or equivalent), will make SHORT WORK of trimming down the stock (sometimes 2" - 3" in size) that I am going to throw in the tumbler?? I guess that would mean getting soaked with water, very likely though too. Hmm. Just looking to hand feed smaller materials at this time, preform cabs later. [Edit] Found an RTH forum thread that helps describe Raytech L-10S here: forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/42482I haven't used the blade labeled the BD-305 Agate Cutter. But I have used the MK-225 Hot Dog blade which according to the factory tech I talked to before purchasing is the exact same blade as the Agate Kutter blade but just repackaged and marketed for lapidary work. The MK-225 Hot Dog blade is my new favorite trim saw blade! After talking to the factory tech on the phone last summer I bought one of 10" MK-225 blades late in the summer and so far have only used it with oil for trimming slabs on my Raytech 10" saw. And man does it eat through those agate and jasper slabs like no other blade I've ever used. I've been planning to do a review of this blade after trying it for slabbing later when I got around to testing it more. But so far I've trimmed over 350 preforms from slabs, many from larger slabs requiring a lot of cutting and the blade has held up great! The only draw-back I've seen with it so far is that being a slotted blade it's "chippy". Definitely have to wear eye protection when using it without a saw hood. My safety glasses, arms, dust mask and front of my shirt got covered with micro-chips of stone every time I used it. Especially until the blade began getting broken in better. I suspect it will be a great blade for slabbing too but only while using the vice. I wouldn't try free-hand slabbing with a slotted blade because if you let the rock get twisted in your hands and one of the corners of the blade kerf at the cooling slots gets caught on the edge of the rock cut I would imagine that things could get ugly (and potentially dangerous) quickly! As for using the MK-225/BD-305 blade with water I haven't tried that yet and even though they are marketed as being made to be used with water. I could not get the factory tech I spoke with to confirm that they will hold up better than a MK/BD-301 Gemking blade when using water. I tried several times to get an opinion about using water with the MK-225/BD-305 blades and he dodged the question each time. So I would still assume that it's doable slabbing small agates and jaspers using just water but that blade life won't be as good as with using oil. tinyurl.com/yyuy5nw5Larry C.
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NevadaBill
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2019
Posts: 1,332
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Post by NevadaBill on Feb 20, 2019 2:09:52 GMT -5
Lots of great advice in your reply Larry. Thanks, I just learned a good deal! I've spent parts of my day reading about saws on this forum, and the MK Hot Dog blade is mentioned very positively.
It looks like I am going to end up with a 6 or 7 inch wet tile saw. Slap a good blade on it, and call it a day. It's going to make noise, and a mess likely. But I need to start trimming some rock right now. Would like buy a nice oil rig though.
But at least now I have a better idea of what to buy, when it is time to get a good one.
Didn't mean to hijack this thread, but appreciate all who took the time to write in it. The topic appears to be a common one.
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luke
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2014
Posts: 20
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Post by luke on Feb 21, 2019 10:35:22 GMT -5
What are the opinions on the Highland Park 6” saw? I understand this is a reputable brand. I guess my questions are around what the largest stone I could cut with this?
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Don
Cave Dweller
He wants you too, Malachi.
Member since December 2009
Posts: 2,616
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Post by Don on Feb 21, 2019 11:28:05 GMT -5
What are the opinions on the Highland Park 6” saw? I understand this is a reputable brand. I guess my questions are around what the largest stone I could cut with this? about 2" - 2.5" diameter or so.
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Post by johnjsgems on Feb 27, 2019 12:38:53 GMT -5
6" saws at most will cut 2" but generally don't have the power for maximum height cuts. Better as slab trimmers. Tile saws always have high speed, powerful motors so will cut faster than same size lapidary saws. Also will generally be very loud and offer free showers with every cut. I've used tile saws with lapidary blades for years and find most lapidary trim saws too underpowered now. As far as price differences, most of the big box store tile saws are "throw aways". The better lapidary saws with proper maintenance can last so long you will forget what you paid for them.
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Post by grumpybill on Feb 27, 2019 12:58:25 GMT -5
johnjsgemsCan you comment on the above post about the Agate Kutter and Hot Dog blades being the same?
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pizzano
Cave Dweller
Member since February 2018
Posts: 1,390
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Post by pizzano on Feb 27, 2019 13:08:33 GMT -5
Purchased an MK-170 awhile back.......lack space for storage and wanted something to cut 2" to 3" stones....:
forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/82246/mk-170-wet-cutting-trim
7" blades are pretty easy to find at Home Depot, Lowes and other popular hardware places. Have had very good results with Makita general purpose rim diamond blades, KD Tilepro diamond rim blades and my favorite, the Avanti Pro diamond turbo notched rim blades......with a little practice even 4" stones can be tackled.
The saw doesn't soak you with a lot of over spray, is a bit noisy due to being a "brushed" motor, the water recirculation system works great but the catch pan is small and the cutting table is made of a polymer which wears over time.......both of those issues can be remedied with a little creativity.
It's been a fine tool thus far, easy to clean and blade changes are seamless.........Just a thought.
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luke
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2014
Posts: 20
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Post by luke on Mar 4, 2019 21:06:21 GMT -5
I appreciate all the replies, I picked up a 7” overhead tile saw from Lowes this weekend. It’s a bit noisy but cuts bigger rocks than I could cut before and it’s less messy than the table style saw I had before. I have a hotdog blade on the way, should be able to make some nice pieces to tumble with that.
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