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Post by rockjunquie on Apr 23, 2019 18:54:18 GMT -5
This is turning into a great topic. I am already learning a lot. Thank you rockjunquie for starting it. New to cabbing (again), I am going to be returning to this thread often for tips and tricks. I hope that others who drop by less frequently will see it also, and contribute what they can. Thank you and you're welcome.  I hope more "old timers" chime in. |
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brotherbill
spending too much on rocks
Member since October 2018
Posts: 388
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Post by brotherbill on Apr 24, 2019 4:35:04 GMT -5
I have recently acquired some thin slices of a very pretty plume agate. I would like to try my hand at making some doublets for the first time. Any suggestions or experiences with backing materials would be helpful.Thanks in advance ☺
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Post by rockjunquie on Apr 24, 2019 11:38:10 GMT -5
I have recently acquired some thin slices of a very pretty plume agate. I would like to try my hand at making some doublets for the first time. Any suggestions or experiences with backing materials would be helpful.Thanks in advance ☺ There are some good threads here about backing. I don't know if they got moved to the tutorial section. Do a search using the google tool box above and see what you can find. I know a guy named BikerRandy was using different stones to back his. You can use glass, too. Clear glass would probably be best for plumes, but that's just my opinion. There are some people who sell thin material for backing either white howlite or black basalt. Some people use better material for more expensive cabs, like black jade. But, some people will ise a stone like lapis and red jasper or some artificial colored stones because they like the color to show up and it highlights the plumes. I prefer them natural. |
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Tommy
Administrator 
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,993
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Post by Tommy on Apr 24, 2019 20:18:13 GMT -5
I know a lot has been discussed already as well as a lengthy segment on tumbling cabs, but pulling back to the heart of the post I will try to add a few posts with my two cents about achieving a world class cabochon. Questions are welcome of course.
Tip - dome it right or you'll chase your tail later.
In my opinion a properly shaped dome with no flat spots when viewed from every angle is the single most important step of cabbing. More important than size, shape, girdles, symmetry - unless you are creating a bezel-calibrated cab. Everyone's method of achieving dome, shape, and girdles is somewhat different depending on how they learned, but a perfect dome is a perfect dome regardless of how you got there or if it is thick or thin. After rough grinding in from the outer edges and achieving what you see as a good dome, step back, dry it off and stare at the side of the cab, rotating it to look at every angle, and see if it is a perfect uninterrupted curve from every direction even when looking at the skinny end of an elongated cab. If it's not, go back and work on it some more otherwise you'll spend a lot of time and frustration chasing scuffs/scratches in that flat spot and wondering why they won't disappear.
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Post by stardiamond on Apr 24, 2019 20:59:34 GMT -5
I know a lot has been discussed already as well as a lengthy segment on tumbling cabs, but pulling back to the heart of the post I will try to add a few posts with my two cents about achieving a world class cabochon. Questions are welcome of course. Tip - dome it right or you'll chase your tail later.In my opinion a properly shaped dome with no flat spots when viewed from every angle is the single most important step of cabbing. More important than size, shape, girdles, symmetry - unless you are creating a bezel-calibrated cab. Everyone's method of achieving dome, shape, and girdles is somewhat different depending on how they learned, but a perfect dome is a perfect dome regardless of how you got there or if it is thick or thin. After rough grinding in from the outer edges and achieving what you see as a good dome, step back, dry it off and stare at the side of the cab, rotating it to look at every angle, and see if it is a perfect uninterrupted curve from every direction even when looking at the skinny end of an elongated cab. If it's not, go back and work on it some more otherwise you'll spend a lot of time and frustration chasing scuffs/scratches in that flat spot and wondering why they won't disappear. I will add that feeling the cab with your finger tips can also tell a person a lot about the doming. |
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Post by rockpickerforever on Apr 24, 2019 23:34:19 GMT -5
I know a lot has been discussed already as well as a lengthy segment on tumbling cabs, but pulling back to the heart of the post I will try to add a few posts with my two cents about achieving a world class cabochon. Questions are welcome of course. Tip - dome it right or you'll chase your tail later.In my opinion a properly shaped dome with no flat spots when viewed from every angle is the single most important step of cabbing. More important than size, shape, girdles, symmetry - unless you are creating a bezel-calibrated cab. Everyone's method of achieving dome, shape, and girdles is somewhat different depending on how they learned, but a perfect dome is a perfect dome regardless of how you got there or if it is thick or thin. After rough grinding in from the outer edges and achieving what you see as a good dome, step back, dry it off and stare at the side of the cab, rotating it to look at every angle, and see if it is a perfect uninterrupted curve from every direction even when looking at the skinny end of an elongated cab. If it's not, go back and work on it some more otherwise you'll spend a lot of time and frustration chasing scuffs/scratches in that flat spot and wondering why they won't disappear. Hoorah! Let's hear it for perfectly domed cabs. Many people, it seems, just don't get it. A slab which is shaped, either calibrated or free form, with the edges rounded over is not a cabochon. Call it a flat top, if you will, but it is not a cab. A true cabochon has a dome , and also a girdle (of varying proportions, dictated by how it will be set). Anything else is still in the learning process. |
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Post by parfive on Apr 25, 2019 0:16:17 GMT -5
Quickie dome check, H/T to Bobby1 . . .
If you have a 2-lamp fluorescent shop light over your bench, it’s easy to see how well you’re shaping the dome.
Cab’s still wet, and you just check the reflection of the two lamps as you tilt the cab back and forth.
Take a look both ways – N/S and E/W.
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Post by rockjunquie on Apr 25, 2019 3:47:59 GMT -5
I would add that a cab has to have a flat bottom as well. At a minimum, it should be domed and have a flat bottom- by definition. A rounded bottom cab will rock in a bezel setting and never seat right.
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Post by rockpickerforever on Apr 25, 2019 4:28:01 GMT -5
Ha ha, I was going to say that, but in my mind, it goes without saying!
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NevadaBill
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2019
Posts: 1,332
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Post by NevadaBill on Apr 25, 2019 9:15:28 GMT -5
I hope this question fits the intent of educating for cabochons.
Somehow the other night when roaming the internet for grinding cabochon information I ran across a video or two that shows how to cut a groove in to your finished cab, so that a wire wrap can be done.
Reference:
So, this looks really risky to me. One small stray imperfection in edge of the stone could lead to a chip, and losing the whole cab.
Is this really necessary? I wonder if they make a Dremel bit attachment which can do this?
Any input would be appreciated.
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Post by rockjunquie on Apr 25, 2019 9:33:05 GMT -5
I hope this question fits the intent of educating for cabochons. Somehow the other night when roaming the internet for grinding cabochon information I ran across a video or two that shows how to cut a groove in to your finished cab, so that a wire wrap can be done. Reference: So, this looks really risky to me. One small stray imperfection in edge of the stone could lead to a chip, and losing the whole cab. Is this really necessary? I wonder if they make a Dremel bit attachment which can do this? Any input would be appreciated. I have one word for you: Drummond Island Rocks |
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NevadaBill
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2019
Posts: 1,332
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Post by NevadaBill on Apr 25, 2019 11:04:27 GMT -5
Ok, this post will probably be a little more on topic. Another member sent me these. I can't see why I couldn't share them here too. They appear to be photocopies of a printed article, which are digitally scanned. And I cannot find the originals online. So I apologize for the low definition of these.    |
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Post by rockjunquie on Apr 25, 2019 11:15:02 GMT -5
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Post by Rockindad on Apr 25, 2019 14:54:24 GMT -5
Ok, this post will probably be a little more on topic. Another member sent me these. I can't see why I couldn't share them here too. They appear to be photocopies of a printed article, which are digitally scanned. And I cannot find the originals online. So I apologize for the low definition of these. Great info, thanks Bill! Al |
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Post by stardiamond on Apr 25, 2019 16:02:40 GMT -5
The last thing I want to try is cutting round or oval calibrated cabs. A cabbing pamphlet I have shows this technique and it isn't suited to the shapes I prefer.
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pizzano
Cave Dweller 
Member since February 2018
Posts: 1,390
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Post by pizzano on Apr 25, 2019 16:41:23 GMT -5
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Post by hummingbirdstones on Apr 25, 2019 20:23:17 GMT -5
The last thing I want to try is cutting round or oval calibrated cabs. A cabbing pamphlet I have shows this technique and it isn't suited to the shapes I prefer. What will you do if you start selling cabs and someone asks you to cut a custom one for them in one of those shapes? |
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Post by stardiamond on Apr 25, 2019 20:51:44 GMT -5
The last thing I want to try is cutting round or oval calibrated cabs. A cabbing pamphlet I have shows this technique and it isn't suited to the shapes I prefer. What will you do if you start selling cabs and someone asks you to cut a custom one for them in one of those shapes? Respectfully decline. I have no interest in doing custom work. I have a lot of cabs already cut to list. If something sells and I have similar material, I would cut a new cab to offer. Circles scare me. I would be happy cutting nothing but free forms. I cut a lot of symmetrical shapes from cab templates and also use cabs I've cut as templates. Symmetrical cabs hang better. I cab to my strengths of design and choosing material. I will never be a technical expert. I've far exceeded my wife's expectations but she collected cabs from many cutters on ebay 15 years ago including some of the top craftsman. I look at theirs and I look at mine and see my limitations. I can match skill with some of the others. |
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Post by hummingbirdstones on Apr 25, 2019 21:07:04 GMT -5
What will you do if you start selling cabs and someone asks you to cut a custom one for them in one of those shapes? Respectfully decline. I have no interest in doing custom work. I have a lot of cabs already cut to list. If something sells and I have similar material, I would cut a new cab to offer. Circles scare me. I would be happy cutting nothing but free forms. I cut a lot of symmetrical shapes from cab templates and also use cabs I've cut as templates. Symmetrical cabs hang better. I cab to my strengths of design and choosing material. I will never be a technical expert. I've far exceeded my wife's expectations but she collected cabs from many cutters on ebay 15 years ago including some of the top craftsman. I look at theirs and I look at mine and see my limitations. I can match skill with some of the others. Good enough. I was just wondering.  |
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NevadaBill
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2019
Posts: 1,332
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Post by NevadaBill on Apr 26, 2019 9:12:03 GMT -5
Oh wow! Those links are perfect for this. I only looked at the pictures for now, but I guess it would be best to buy one of those special machines in order to cut the groove in the side of the cab. I do however prefer to cut the groove BEFORE shaping the dome of the cab, rather than AFTER. At least that makes the most sense for me. The local club holds weekly wire wrapping classes. I think I will be attending some of these. That should help. |
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I hope more "old timers" chime in.
