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Post by aDave on Jan 29, 2020 13:01:11 GMT -5
Hi aDave I am using Mineral oil such as you might find at a feed store. It’s definitely better than the kind for humans as I do not notice it turning black on the cut. That’s said I was wondering if “Tool Cool” from the rock shed is better: Shawn said the hierarchy of lubricants is petroleum based oils, mineral oil, lubricants like tool cool and then Water. This I was trying to get at two issues: Is mineral oil I use (from the feed store) good enough for my 8” drop/chop saw? 1- if so could I “downgrade” to tool cool (definitely easier on my pump) 2- if not should I move to petroleum based oil? 3- or should I stick to what I’m using? 4- get a better brand of mineral oil? Lastly, the issue could be that perhaps I do need to sharpen with a grinding wheel as hummingbirdstones2 suggests. Thanks for everyone’s input! Ahh, gotcha. I'm not enough of a saw guru to answer your specific questions. Further, I'm only using a tile saw with water, so I've not had the chance to play with different types of oils or products. FWIW, I'm dressing my blade with a dressing stone which can be found at most builders supplies or tile stores. I also swedge my blade when it's needed. That's what I was pointing to in the my previous post in that document link. Good luck. |
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JR8675309
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since August 2019
Posts: 807
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Post by JR8675309 on Jan 31, 2020 9:14:41 GMT -5
aDave thanks for the input. I read the documentation In link and it is helpful. I had read it back in August when I joined and appreciate the reminder it was there. After running the new saw it’s more applicable. I’m going to HF at lunch and plan to get a cheap grinding wheel to saw. Tomorrow I’m going to ensure the blade is running true and has no obstruction in the shield running atop the blade. I’ve never had to swedge a blade but I suppose there first time for everything! Have a nice weekend.
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Post by aDave on Jan 31, 2020 13:06:04 GMT -5
aDave thanks for the input. I read the documentation In link and it is helpful. I had read it back in August when I joined and appreciate the reminder it was there. After running the new saw it’s more applicable. I’m going to HF at lunch and plan to get a cheap grinding wheel to saw. Tomorrow I’m going to ensure the blade is running true and has no obstruction in the shield running atop the blade. I’ve never had to swedge a blade but I suppose there first time for everything! Have a nice weekend. Thank you, and you're welcome. Glad to see that things are getting ironed out with your saw. In terms of the swedging, it may become obvious when it's needed, as cutting will become much more difficult and inefficient. There will also be a very obvious rounding of the kerf. I guess that it might not have to be done, but I noticed an improvement in blade performance when I did it. Good luck whichever way you go. |
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JR8675309
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since August 2019
Posts: 807
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Post by JR8675309 on Feb 1, 2020 19:34:17 GMT -5
Old black silicon carbide wheels will do a better job for you. Cast-offs from a bench grinder work. That worked like a charm. Thanks for the advice! |
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Feb 1, 2020 22:10:08 GMT -5
Old black silicon carbide wheels will do a better job for you. Cast-offs from a bench grinder work. That worked like a charm. Thanks for the advice! You're welcome! Best part is that they're way more economical than the same stuff already cut up into neat little sticks.
ETA: I also tried regular brick in the beginning. Found out later that firebrick is supposed to work because they are made with more alumina and other metallic oxides. There are at least a couple of grades of firebrick. Never used them - I had already discovered old SC wheels.
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JR8675309
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since August 2019
Posts: 807
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Post by JR8675309 on Feb 2, 2020 16:25:28 GMT -5
im thinking Of switching the machine over to tool cool but have Not completely decided. I believe the mineral oil to be to viscous for it. Today I’m planning to adjust the belts to see if that helps. On another front I was happy to find they still make those Dayton motors.
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