julieooly
Cave Dweller 
Member since October 2018
Posts: 721 
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Post by julieooly on Oct 3, 2019 10:48:12 GMT -5
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Post by opalpyrexia on Oct 3, 2019 11:04:03 GMT -5
That looks like it's going to be an impressive cab!
Your drusy area has a well-defined, broad semi-oval border. Why not dome the rest of the cab starting from the edge of that border, leaving that area natural (at its current height)?
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julieooly
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2018
Posts: 721
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Post by julieooly on Oct 3, 2019 11:50:15 GMT -5
That looks like it's going to be an impressive cab! Your drusy area has a well-defined, broad semi-oval border. Why not dome the rest of the cab starting from the edge of that border, leaving that area natural (at its current height)? Right, but I've already dipped into the natural border, should I make the whole cab shorter so the drusy semi circle hits the edge of the cab a bit wider? more of a U than an oval with the top nicked off? Any thoughts on protecting the inside? or just hold my breath  |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2019 12:58:23 GMT -5
If you just want to keep dust and polishing compound out, rubber cement will work (can be peeled off later, or dissolved using mineral spirits if dries out). Wax would also work, though I think it might be hard to completely remove without also resorting to a solvent. Nothing is going to protect the druzy if you grind down on that area with the wheels.
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NRG
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since February 2018
Posts: 1,688
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Post by NRG on Oct 3, 2019 13:00:56 GMT -5
If you just want to keep dust and polishing compound out, rubber cement will work (can be peeled off later, or dissolved using mineral spirits if dries out). Wax would also work, though I think it might be hard to completely remove without also resorting to a solvent. Nothing is going to protect the druzy if you grind down on that area with the wheels. When I use wax, I submerge the finished piece in water and slowly heat the water. Soon as it reaches the wax melting point the wax will float to the surface and the cab is gone. For heat sensitive materials I would use acetone to dissolve the wax away. |
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Post by fernwood on Oct 3, 2019 13:09:25 GMT -5
I have used hot melt glue to protect druzy areas. Peels right off when I am done.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2019 13:38:08 GMT -5
When I use wax, I submerge the finished piece in water and slowly heat the water. My objection to wax was that it left a coating behind. Never thought of heating it in hot water, though. Makes sense that it would float off. |
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Post by hummingbirdstones on Oct 3, 2019 20:45:46 GMT -5
I would think filling it with Elmer's glue would work. Just let it soak in water to get it out.
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Post by stardiamond on Oct 3, 2019 21:33:28 GMT -5
I don't worry about stuff getting in a vug. The issue for me is grinding on top of it. A shallow dome or flat top will reduce the impact.
I did a Nipomo marcasite with a very deep vug, so I didn't have to worry about grinding on top of it. I had a Horse Canyon with a vug next to part of the girdle. It didn't go well. The vug is still visible and the girdle is intact, but the vug area is below the rest of the surface.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2019 22:37:25 GMT -5
Yeah, you don't want to grind so much of it away that it starts to look more like a flaw than a feature.
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Post by rockjunquie on Oct 4, 2019 9:08:58 GMT -5
I tried using dop wax and it didn't go well. I never did get it all off - not even with a very long soak in acetone. It was stuck in the tiny spaces between the crystals.
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