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Post by aDave on Jan 15, 2020 15:02:05 GMT -5
From what I've seen of folks building a water delivery system, aquarium pumps are often used. I think that's what NevadaBill used in his build, but I can't say for sure. I haven't gone back through the thread to check. ETA: Okay, I just looked. Bill used a fountain pump in his build, and he has an Amazon link in his thread for what he bought. Looks like he did a bunch of research related to minimum gallons per hour (gph) that may be needed to overcome the head pressure from the height the water must travel. Thank you! I was also thinking aquarium pump at least for a temporary pump, but nobody in town has one. Whatever pump you find, either in town or online, just be sure it has enough "oomph" to get adequate water delivery. A fountain pump may do better than an aquarium pump in that regard - though I can't say for sure. I haven't had the need to research for my own stuff. |
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Post by stardiamond on Jan 15, 2020 17:26:07 GMT -5
I've bought medium aquarium pumps and they are barely adequate for cooling grinding wheels. A fountain pump might work. I took a look at inexpensive marine sump pumps but it looks like the water flow would be excessive.
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Post by stardiamond on Jan 15, 2020 17:39:36 GMT -5
My stardiamond machine's drippers were originally hooked up to a garden hose and the machine drained into a bucket. I believe that the water particularly for a saw should have an additive. Without it a hose attached to a drip watering mini sprayer would get plenty of water on the blade.
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Post by knave on Jan 15, 2020 17:39:37 GMT -5
In this application you will need continuous duty cycle and rather than flow, you need to look at feet of lift the pump can supply. Any pump can move lots of water if it’s unrestricted. With 1/4” tubing you kind of need to generate pressure.
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Post by knave on Jan 15, 2020 17:40:28 GMT -5
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EricD
Cave Dweller 
High in the Mountains
Member since November 2019
Posts: 1,142
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Post by EricD on Jan 15, 2020 19:25:12 GMT -5
I've bought medium aquarium pumps and they are barely adequate for cooling grinding wheels. A fountain pump might work. I took a look at inexpensive marine sump pumps but it looks like the water flow would be excessive. My 1100GPH bilge pump in my boat shoots a 1" stream about 6 feet horizontally with a 2 foot lift (or head) and only drops about 6" during that 6 feet. I agree that would be just a tad excessive for the saw  |
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EricD
Cave Dweller
High in the Mountains
Member since November 2019
Posts: 1,142
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Post by EricD on Jan 15, 2020 19:26:14 GMT -5
My stardiamond machine's drippers were originally hooked up to a garden hose and the machine drained into a bucket. I believe that the water particularly for a saw should have an additive. Without it a hose attached to a drip watering mini sprayer would get plenty of water on the blade. What type of additive do you use in your water, and have you found it helps blade life? |
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EricD
Cave Dweller
High in the Mountains
Member since November 2019
Posts: 1,142
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Post by EricD on Jan 15, 2020 19:28:07 GMT -5
About double the flow I would need at the very most, but thank you Evan. I could use that as a starting point at the very least |
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Post by knave on Jan 15, 2020 19:31:12 GMT -5
Well that’s what the valves are for to meter the flow down...  |
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Post by knave on Jan 15, 2020 19:44:55 GMT -5
Too keep in mind:
The GPH rating can vary wildly depending on application.
IE: The bilge pump may be rated at 1100 GPH @ 20’ of head. Rest assured the tiny little aquarium pump would only put out 800 GPH under perfect lab scenario. And @ 10 ft of lift, it would be drastically lower, closer to 10 GPH. 28” of lift = 1 psi.
Every pump has a “curve” the flow decreases as the pressure differential rises.
(Hopping off soap box now, lol)
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Post by aDave on Jan 15, 2020 19:48:35 GMT -5
About double the flow I would need at the very most, but thank you Evan. I could use that as a starting point at the very least Not a criticism of Evan, but take a look at the reviews. If it was me, I'd be looking for a different product before absolutely pulling the trigger on this one. Heck, maybe they all have their problems. Don't know.  |
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Post by knave on Jan 15, 2020 19:54:39 GMT -5
Good point I didn’t actually read the reviews. But 4.5 stars is about as good as it get from old Jeff Bezos.
Edit: wow the reviews do stink lately on that pump. Wonder how the seller got a 4.5 average. The people complaining about power usage don’t understand pumps. With no hose or restriction the power use goes UP, they are moving More Water.
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EricD
Cave Dweller
High in the Mountains
Member since November 2019
Posts: 1,142
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Post by EricD on Jan 15, 2020 20:06:27 GMT -5
About double the flow I would need at the very most, but thank you Evan. I could use that as a starting point at the very least Not a criticism of Evan, but take a look at the reviews. If it was me, I'd be looking for a different product before absolutely pulling the trigger on this one. Heck, maybe they all have their problems. Don't know.  He takes criticism well, feel free to lay it on! 
I was thinking a 7psi Facet fuel pump would work good. If it's enough to feed a 975 CFM Quadrajet carburetor it should be able to keep up with 2 .06mm orifices. I would rather have a 110v unit though.
I will keep looking and likely burn up a few more washer pumps in the meantime since they cost nothing |
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Post by stardiamond on Jan 15, 2020 21:24:55 GMT -5
My stardiamond machine's drippers were originally hooked up to a garden hose and the machine drained into a bucket. I believe that the water particularly for a saw should have an additive. Without it a hose attached to a drip watering mini sprayer would get plenty of water on the blade. What type of additive do you use in your water, and have you found it helps blade life? I use cool lube from Johnson Brothers which is mixed with water 20-1 for grinding and 10-1 for saws. The ingredients say biodegradable mix with water. I don't know what the additive is. Other manufacturers have different names like kool-lube (Covington) diacut (Graves),tool cool, Diamond Pacific Water Aid. Since my trim saw uses water based coolant and I do a lot of grinding, I buy gallons of cool lube. |
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stillrockinpdx
starting to shine!
Hey!! I got a Star! - Find me on Instagram under stillrockinpdx - I collect other things too.
Member since April 2017
Posts: 45 
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Post by stillrockinpdx on May 3, 2020 21:38:28 GMT -5
I use mineral oil exclusively in all my saws. Never water
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christibeach
off to a rocking start
Member since February 2023
Posts: 13
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Post by christibeach on Mar 24, 2023 20:18:39 GMT -5
Interesting feed design. So, is it the combined weight of the rock and clamp that lowers the rock onto the blade? Nicely done. Yes it is. at the end of the cut it is too much and breaks the rock off, and a lot of trimming has to be done on each slab. That's why I would like a servo motor or something like that to regulate the feed to a set amount of distance per minute. Just hard to figure out exactly how fast and I'm sure it differs a lot with blade surface speed and rock density and coolant and blade thickness and ambient temperature and barometric pressure and wind speed, not to mention planet wobble and where RocksInNJ currently has his anti-grav boots stashed that he left on. After 2 full, long days of reading every single post I can find on proper saw blade selection, I feel this comment more than any other. This is fact. I literally dreamed about saw blades last night. Someone *please* find and turn off the anti-grav boots... perhaps then the perfect blade brand/width/etc for my hand-fed Rigid 10" tile saw at 4200rpms using water as coolant while cutting thundereggs, agates, jasper, and bricks while humidity is 87% and my phone's playlist is blaring a combo of Country, Rock, Oldies, and Veggie Tales... will finally become clear.  Thanks for the laugh, EricD. |
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Post by Mel on Apr 17, 2023 21:35:25 GMT -5
I've purchased an 8" MK-301 blade for my tile saw.
I was going to use it with a clean water system with a pump and nozzles above the blade and in front of the cut (think automotive windshield washer pump and nozzle type system here), but after reading that an oil based coolant (like mineral oil/horse laxative) would lengthen the blade life by 3 times, I am kind of on the fence about trying just water. Therefore I have not yet mounted the blade.
I searched the forum quite extensively but never came to a conclusion from what I read about other's experiments.
Do any of you use plain (and clean) water alone to lubricate your small MK-301 blade? If so, has it lasted as long as you thought it should? I would also be interested to hear about what coolants/lubricants you DO use, even if you do not use water, and how long your blade has lasted so far.
I have MK303 blades on my Lortone combo unit. Was running this with an aquarium pump fed water supply feeding from a bucket on the floor up to the reservoir (~32 inches) & another line feeding out to a 2nd drain pan using fairly large hose (1/2"?), it works fantastic!! Can't say much about the blade, since I didn't do a ton of cutting on that one BUT used the same model blade on my Genie trim saw and got pretty good results. Cut around 100 preforms and a fairly good sized batch of misc small slabs before it needed to be replaced (and really, I replaced it more due to me slightly bending it than to it being too worn down though it maybe had another couple hours of life in it). I also have a 12" MK303 on a Felker tile saw I use basically as a rock chop saw. I cut maybe a dozen coconut sized boulders on it, plus all the tile for my bathroom renovation  and it's just wearing out now. I seem to recall it being about $60 for the blade (pre-covid). It was worked hard and put away wet quite a few times and never disappointed. Personally, unless I were cutting a ton of large material or cutting material very frequently, I'd just stick with water on small blades. They're cheap to replace and the cleanup is SO easy. If you still can't decide, you could always run it with water for a few cuts, then dry everything thoroughly and run it again for a few cuts with some mineral oil. See how you like the cut quality & the cleanup. Just my 2 cents. EDIT: I also just noticed the date on this thread...... whoops! I'm sure you found a solution that works by now! |
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paulr
off to a rocking start
Member since April 2023
Posts: 13
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Post by paulr on Apr 29, 2023 10:04:35 GMT -5
I'll preface my reply by stating I'm in no way a saw/saw blade expert. I would agree with your assessment that oil is typically a better lubricant/lubricant than plain water and using oil may help prolong blade life. However, most larger saws where oil is used (10" is the cutoff, I believe), such saws have a hood where misting and splashing is contained to the saw itself. Not so with a tile saw. I use a 7" tile saw, and I use water only. Because the blade rotates through a reservoir to pick up water, I can't imagine how messy things would be if I was using oil. Even with standing behind the saw and pulling the work toward me, I still manage to get wet. In that respect I'm glad I only use water. With using a tile saw, just beware of how hard and fast you're feeding, and that will help with blade life a bit. Also remember that most tile saws are turning at a much higher RPM than what you would see with a lapidary saw. That also adds to blade wear. Those are some quick thoughts off the top of my head. What kind of saw do you have? It's a Ridgid 4021 that was originally a 7" and turns at a maximum RPM of 3450. The MK-301 8" blade has a recommended speed of 4500 and a maximum of 7640
 Where are you getting those numbers? MK Diamond says 1430 to 2150 RPM for an 8" 301 blade. MK Diamond recommended blade speed |
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and it's just wearing out now. I seem to recall it being about $60 for the blade (pre-covid). It was worked hard and put away wet quite a few times and never disappointed. 
