tereza
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2019
Posts: 14 
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Post by tereza on Mar 8, 2020 16:05:33 GMT -5
Hi, I just found an old Lortone TS 10 listed locally for $250. I am considering buying it and will go see it later today. Do you think $250 is a fair price assuming it works? Any tips on what and how should I check? The owner says it hasn't been used in many years. I am pretty sure they will be able to plug it in but not actually to slab a rock. Do you know if it's possible to still find replacement parts for this saw if needed? Here are some pictures:   Thanks, Tereza |
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Post by pauls on Mar 8, 2020 16:43:33 GMT -5
That looks OK for the price, check the tub doesn't have any rust spots or leaks. It looks to be OK in the photo but there's a crusty area just under the front of the blade.
Apart from that check that the bearings don't rumble when it runs, not a biggy even if they do, it should be reasonably easy to replace bearings. Check the feed works, sometimes those things strip a cog and can be very hard to get parts for, even then a weight feed does a reasonable job so not particularly a deal breaker.
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Mar 8, 2020 20:58:35 GMT -5
You're probably already on your way to see it, but I'll post this anyway.
Since it doesn't have oil in it you should be able to watch it run to make sure the feed is working and that there aren't any major problems. If you can grab onto the vise carriage and pull it back toward you to make sure it isn't stripped that would be a plus.
If it looked okay I'd buy it for $250. If I had anywhere to put it, that is.
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tereza
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2019
Posts: 14
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Post by tereza on Mar 8, 2020 21:08:52 GMT -5
Thank you both! I did end up getting the saw. There seem to be no major rust issue - the colored spots on the tub and the crust is just old sludge. Both motors work and the auto feed is moving. There are few things though that will require some adjustments/fixes. Hopefully most of it can be done without new parts. If anybody owns the same saw or knows how to adjust these let me know! Specifically: - The carriage rocks quite a bit side to side when moved by hand. Anybody knows which screws to check/tighten?
- The carriage rocks just a tiny bit front to back. This I hope is ok as it's just a little bit.
- There is a bit of a rumble and vibration when running the main motor. I am not sure though how to tell if it's normal for the saw or if the bearings need to be replaced. How would one know? Here is a video I took of the motor running.
- The power cable from the main motor is pretty worn so I'll need to change that..
Any tips on how to deal with 1 - 3 are welcome. I'll figure something out but if somebody here has a good idea on how to do these things I'll prefer that over trial and error 
Additionally would anybody be able to tell if the blade has any life left? My guess is that it's ok until it gets to the darker inner ring which is probably the connection to the core but I am very new to this:
Thank you,
Tereza.
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Mar 8, 2020 23:24:55 GMT -5
Glad you were able to get that saw. I'm sure you've seen what new ones sell for.
The movement in the carriage when you push/pull should be okay. Our 18" carriage has a fair amount of that, but cuts nice even slabs. Once the rock hits the blade there will be a constant pressure on it, so it should maintain the same position all the way through the cut.
You're right about the blade, too. Looks like a fair amount of rim left on it. Some blades are better than others, and if there isn't any identification on the blade you'll just have to hope it is good quality. Pick up a cheap black silicon carbide bench grinder wheel (if you can't find a cast-off from someone with a grinder) to dress the blade if it seems to be cutting too slowly.
The rumbling? Could be time to replace the bearings, could be just in need of some fresh grease.
The cord? If there is exposed copper I'd replace it right away. If it just the insulation that's shot you could get some "liquid tape" to get by for a while.
There's a good pdf file called "Care and feeding of rock saws" online that's definitely worth downloading.
Best way to evaluate it? Dump some oil in there and feed it a softer rock for starters just to see how it does. One thing I like about that saw is the vertical orientation of the vise jaws. We've slabbed lots of chunks with "inconvenient" shapes on our LS14 drop saw by using wood blocks wedged between the rough and the bolts. Can't do that as easily with jaws oriented the other way.
Have fun!
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tereza
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2019
Posts: 14
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Post by tereza on Mar 9, 2020 0:46:53 GMT -5
Thanks, Vince. Regarding fresh grease - if I understand this video from HP correctly the bearings on the arbor of this saw are sealed and cannot be oiled - or were you thinking something else on the arbor assembly/motor might be in need of grease? I am inexperienced in machine maintenance in general so I apologize if it's a dumb question. Regarding the rest I'll try to run it as is but what would be a telltale sign of the bearings needing to be replaced? I was able to find the pdf and download it. It has some great info, thank you for telling me about it! I also found a useful video from HP on stabilizing the carriage, it's for their HT10 which is a copy of LS10 which is hopefully very similar to my saw. In case anybody is interested here it is. |
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Mar 9, 2020 8:10:42 GMT -5
Sealed bearings - you're good.
Maybe someone else on here who has that model saw will chime in. I just automatically look for grease fittings on new toys. The LS14 drop saw bearings have little oil ports on them, and our 18" has grease fittings on the arbor housing.
I watched the carriage adjustment video, even though we don't have a saw like that. Thanks.
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Post by broseph82 on Mar 10, 2020 9:44:19 GMT -5
Sealed bearings - you're good.
Maybe someone else on here who has that model saw will chime in. I just automatically look for grease fittings on new toys. The LS14 drop saw bearings have little oil ports on them, and our 18" has grease fittings on the arbor housing.
I watched the carriage adjustment video, even though we don't have a saw like that. Thanks.
I have this saw and bought these bearings off eBay for $20 for the set. NEW SBPP204-12 High Quality 3/4" Set Screw Pressed Steel Pillow Block Bearing Also: go ahead and replace the bearings, belt, AND blade. I run a MK-225 blade on mine currently. I myself am guilty of just buying something used and hoping for the best until something doesn’t sound or look right. DONT DO THIS! spend the few extra bucks and replace those three things. The LS-10 manual also has all the parts listed so it’s easy to find the correct belt, pulleys, screws, etc. |
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tereza
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2019
Posts: 14
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Post by tereza on Mar 10, 2020 15:55:38 GMT -5
Hi broseph82, Thank you for the advice and exact bearing type! Do you know if there is somewhere a step by step guide on replacing the bearings on the saw? What I am worried about is that I'll start fiddling with the saw and won't be able to get it to align correctly again as I've never done this before so some step by step would be super helpful One more question - I am trying to stabilize the carriage the way they describe in the video I posted previously. I noticed that the inside bolt (the one the feed nut spring is attached too) is supper short and cannot really be screwed in more to prevent the carriage from tilting inwards. The bolt on the other side is plenty long. I wonder if it's just wear on my saw and the bolt is supposed to be the same length as the other one or if it's somehow by design on the TS10. Would you mind checking what yours look like? When I get home later today I can post a picture of what exactly I am talking about. Thank you, Tereza. |
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NDK
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Member since January 2009
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Post by NDK on Mar 10, 2020 18:24:33 GMT -5
terezaI'm no expert on slab saws, but one thing you may want to check is if that belt is what's making the noise. If that saw has sat a while without running the belt may be a little dried up and have a memory of where it was sitting on the pulley for so long. That would then thump as it goes around.
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Post by broseph82 on Mar 11, 2020 14:50:15 GMT -5
Hi broseph82, Thank you for the advice and exact bearing type! Do you know if there is somewhere a step by step guide on replacing the bearings on the saw? What I am worried about is that I'll start fiddling with the saw and won't be able to get it to align correctly again as I've never done this before so some step by step would be super helpful One more question - I am trying to stabilize the carriage the way they describe in the video I posted previously. I noticed that the inside bolt (the one the feed nut spring is attached too) is supper short and cannot really be screwed in more to prevent the carriage from tilting inwards. The bolt on the other side is plenty long. I wonder if it's just wear on my saw and the bolt is supposed to be the same length as the other one or if it's somehow by design on the TS10. Would you mind checking what yours look like? When I get home later today I can post a picture of what exactly I am talking about. Thank you, Tereza. Here’s the manual. It’s a little bit of a pain to line up, but it doesn’t have anything to do with carriage. Unscrew bearings, take off bearings with bearing puller (Home Depot), and put new bearings on. It’s a little tricky but not too bad. Just gotta screw them back on the machine and then adjust to however the blade is lining up with the carriage. wiki.milwaukeemakerspace.org/_media/equipment/ls10_instructions.pdf |
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tereza
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2019
Posts: 14
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Post by tereza on Mar 14, 2020 20:38:32 GMT -5
Thanks again.
I took the saw to a local conveyor parts seller to see if they would have a new matching belt and bearings. They were awesome. They spent about an hour taking the arbor apart, fixing badly attached and stuck pulleys on both the arbor and motor shaft - which is what was making the noise. They got me a new belt but didn't have replacement bearings. They said only one of the bearings needs to be replaced, the other one is fine.
Does it matter if the new bearing is exactly the same part/brand since I am changing just one? The bearings that are on the saw have a part #: 478204-012 SKF. They are probably pretty old so hard to find for a good price.
Anybody knows what are the important things to look at when matching bearings? I am also not sure what the advantages of different mounting styles are - the ones I have now have eccentric locking collars, not sure if it matters or not.
Thank you!
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Post by woodman on Mar 14, 2020 21:33:28 GMT -5
I would replace the belt, put some oil in it and cut some rocks. mine sounds pretty much the same, you can always change the bearings later, but when you take the belt off, turn the arbor over by had and feel what the bearing are doing. If they are bad, you will feel it. I agree with NDK on the belt. and it looks like it is flopping. Don't get in rush and tear too far into it all at once or you may never get it back together. they are a good little saw.
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Post by woodman on Mar 14, 2020 21:46:02 GMT -5
Thanks again. I took the saw to a local conveyor parts seller to see if they would have a new matching belt and bearings. They were awesome. They spent about an hour taking the arbor apart, fixing badly attached and stuck pulleys on both the arbor and motor shaft - which is what was making the noise. They got me a new belt but didn't have replacement bearings. They said only one of the bearings needs to be replaced, the other one is fine. Does it matter if the new bearing is exactly the same part/brand since I am changing just one? The bearings that are on the saw have a part #: 478204-012 SKF. They are probably pretty old so hard to find for a good price. Anybody knows what are the important things to look at when matching bearings? I am also not sure what the advantages of different mounting styles are - the ones I have now have eccentric locking collars, not sure if it matters or not. Thank you! I would not replace just one bearing, especially if it not the same part number or brand. I just did a google search for that part number and you can get then thru amazon for 14.40 plus shipping, not bad. I would use the original part number bearings, it will be easier to get them set up right. Good luck |
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tereza
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2019
Posts: 14
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Post by tereza on Mar 15, 2020 0:08:00 GMT -5
Thanks. Yes, I already replaced the belt and had the bearings checked by a mechanic.
I know of that one on Amazon but it is a last one, and nothing on ebay. I was hoping to get some I could easily find more of if I later need to replace the second one too. I heard that there are some lists of interchangeable bearings. I believe this one YET- 204-012 SKF W might be just a newer version of the one I have. I'll call the manufacturer on Monday to confirm.
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Fossilman
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Post by Fossilman on Mar 15, 2020 9:29:19 GMT -5
SCORE! Nice buy and cheap!
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Post by woodman on Mar 16, 2020 9:23:28 GMT -5
Thanks. Yes, I already replaced the belt and had the bearings checked by a mechanic. I know of that one on Amazon but it is a last one, and nothing on ebay. I was hoping to get some I could easily find more of if I later need to replace the second one too. I heard that there are some lists of interchangeable bearings. I believe this one YET- 204-012 SKF W might be just a newer version of the one I have. I'll call the manufacturer on Monday to confirm. I looked at several interchangeable bearing list and found nothing that cross referenced it, but the Yet-204-012 skf LOOKS GOOD. I would measure he bore and outside measurements of the old one and ocmpare to the specs of yet one. let us know what the manufacturer has to say. i really need to replace mine also. checked it yesterday and has some slop in the outer bearing. |
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Fossilman
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Post by Fossilman on Mar 17, 2020 10:02:32 GMT -5
I bet Larry (Quartz) might know ... He is a machinist...
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NRG
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since February 2018
Posts: 1,688
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Post by NRG on Mar 26, 2020 21:11:18 GMT -5
I would replace the belt, put some oil in it and cut some rocks. mine sounds pretty much the same, you can always change the bearings later, but when you take the belt off, turn the arbor over by had and feel what the bearing are doing. If they are bad, you will feel it. I agree with NDK on the belt. and it looks like it is flopping. Don't get in rush and tear too far into it all at once or you may never get it back together. they are a good little saw. This is great advice. Needed repeating. |
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NRG
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since February 2018
Posts: 1,688
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Post by NRG on Mar 26, 2020 21:14:57 GMT -5
I bet Larry ( quartz) might know ... He is a machinist... |
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