agatewhisperer
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since May 2020
Posts: 833
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Post by agatewhisperer on Sept 3, 2020 21:27:28 GMT -5
Hey everyone, picked up a Raytech L-6s trim saw. It needs a little TLC and haven't had much time to play with it yet. I think it was sitting around for many years and the arbor feels like there's dried grease or gunk in it. Basically a little sticky when trying to spin it. Any advice on rehabbing this thing or where I might find a replacement bearing? I couldn't find a ton of info on it but read that the Raytech saws may have used more of a custom bearing? Couldn't find much detail to go off of so asking you!  |
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EricD
Cave Dweller 
High in the Mountains
Member since November 2019
Posts: 1,142
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Post by EricD on Sept 4, 2020 7:31:51 GMT -5
Can't tell from any pictures if the bearings are replaceable or not, but there's a replacement arbor above ^
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agatewhisperer
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since May 2020
Posts: 833
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Post by agatewhisperer on Sept 4, 2020 12:45:01 GMT -5
Can't tell from any pictures if the bearings are replaceable or not, but there's a replacement arbor above ^
Ya i noticed that arbor replacement when searching around but it's out of stock. I might need to follow up on it. Your last link didn't work for me - any chance you could try again? I haven't found a lot of picture of what this thing should actually look like assembled with all of the pieces. |
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EricD
Cave Dweller
High in the Mountains
Member since November 2019
Posts: 1,142
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Post by EricD on Sept 4, 2020 13:38:39 GMT -5
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Post by Peruano on Sept 4, 2020 17:18:07 GMT -5
Do what you have to do to make it run. You have one of handiest small saws in existence because of the small tray that can be dumped, dried, and stored with minimal fuss. No lifting, no drain plugs, no rust (if you leave the top up), and no wasted time in clean up like so many other good saws require. Enjoy BTW, I bought a Raytech saw once and it came with a replacement arbor so maybe the arbor replacement is the standard for this one. Just a passing thought.
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Post by pauls on Sept 4, 2020 19:13:29 GMT -5
I can't imagine that the bearings would be too special. Get them pressed out and take them to a bearing supply place.
The only bearings I have ever seen that couldn't be matched with standard off the shelf ones were on a Russian tractor that my neighbours had the misfortune of buying.
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EricD
Cave Dweller
High in the Mountains
Member since November 2019
Posts: 1,142
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Post by EricD on Sept 4, 2020 20:36:19 GMT -5
I can't imagine that the bearings would be too special. Get them pressed out and take them to a bearing supply place. The only bearings I have ever seen that couldn't be matched with standard off the shelf ones were on a Russian tractor that my neighbours had the misfortune of buying. Some bearing housings are actually the outer race of the bearing. Without more pictures of the arbor I cannot tell if this is the case with this one, but with the limited information I did uncover about the saw, it is a proprietary bearing, unfortunately. I could be wrong but that is what I gathered.
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Sept 4, 2020 23:22:05 GMT -5
With luck it might free up after you get the rust off, lube everything, and run it for a bit.
The one we bought ten years ago has been one of my favorite saws ever since.
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herb
spending too much on rocks
Member since November 2011
Posts: 472
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Post by herb on Sept 5, 2020 8:57:56 GMT -5
I have a 10 inch raytech saw that has what looks like the same type of arbor/bearing assembly. On mine the bearings are pressed onto the shaft but they freely move inside the housing. When the belt is on the tension is enough to keep the arbor from moving left to right. I had to replace the bearings about 6 months ago. I had a shop do it since I dont have a press to get the bearings off/on. I seem to remember the shop saying they didnt find the exact same model bearings but used different ones, the housing size isn't some wierd diameter so it is easy to find bearings that will fit.
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agatewhisperer
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since May 2020
Posts: 833
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Post by agatewhisperer on Sept 5, 2020 18:31:16 GMT -5
That's great news that it's a good saw. I had some time today that I spent cleaning it up etc and after lubing it up a little the bearings seem good enough to give a try although I'm no expert.
I might hit a few of you up that have one for some more details pictures to make sure I'm doing this right. Question I have at this point is whether the flange between the bearing and blade should come off or not or just stay put. It seems like the spacing is pretty tight to change the blade when it's there but not sure.
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Sept 5, 2020 20:43:14 GMT -5
You can change the blade without removing anything else.
I was surprised to see the SFJS web site saying they have a 6" saw in stock. The 10" was sold out.
They show one sump liner left in stock. I bought a spare for our 6". Know I could repair one or fabricate something, but wanted a "factory" spare. Got the old saw for a good price ten years ago. That made splurging on the liner easier to do.
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Post by catmandewe on Sept 5, 2020 22:09:52 GMT -5
The Raytech saw line was bought up by Scott Enterprises, you can contact them for anything you need.
One of the best little saws out there...........Tony
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herb
spending too much on rocks
Member since November 2011
Posts: 472
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Post by herb on Sept 6, 2020 8:46:33 GMT -5
For my 10 inch saw, I just have to remove the nut, the flange on the bearing side doesnt have to be moved. I actually dont remember seeing a way for that flange to come off, eg: no set screw so it might be pressed in place. That's great news that it's a good saw. I had some time today that I spent cleaning it up etc and after lubing it up a little the bearings seem good enough to give a try although I'm no expert. I might hit a few of you up that have one for some more details pictures to make sure I'm doing this right. Question I have at this point is whether the flange between the bearing and blade should come off or not or just stay put. It seems like the spacing is pretty tight to change the blade when it's there but not sure. |
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Sept 6, 2020 9:13:04 GMT -5
catmandewe - I wondered about Scott Enterprises' Raytech availability after seeing a 2016 date on that web page.
Are complete saws still available, or just replacement parts?
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Post by catmandewe on Sept 6, 2020 11:34:16 GMT -5
I talked to Rick Scott a few years back right after he purchased the saw part of Raytech and he said he would be making new saws also. I havent talked to him since or tried to order one so I am not sure how it progressed or is working out. Maybe I will give him a call and check.
Tony
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agatewhisperer
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since May 2020
Posts: 833
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Post by agatewhisperer on Sept 7, 2020 17:02:11 GMT -5
Can't tell from any pictures if the bearings are replaceable or not, but there's a replacement arbor above ^
So after some massaging, the bearing seems like it might work. Does anyone have some pictures and measurements of the baffle? |
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Sept 7, 2020 22:17:50 GMT -5
Here's the picture:
Price is a bit much if you can fab one from sheet metal yourself. Only tricky part would be the collar in the center.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Sept 9, 2020 1:07:31 GMT -5
Can't tell from any pictures if the bearings are replaceable or not, but there's a replacement arbor above ^
So after some massaging, the bearing seems like it might work. Does anyone have some pictures and measurements of the baffle? The earlier model 10" Raytech slab/trim saw didn't have a baffle. But the baffles were a needed addition to the design that helps keep the coolant from leaking out around the arbor hole. I've had a couple of the Raytech L-6S models and neither of them had baffles. I'm not sure if they were ever included on the 6" models. The 6" blades don't seem create the same need for them as the 10" saw blades did. But if you want to check, Rick Scott does still make a 6" trim saw (just not with the autofeed and hood that the older 6" models had)so he may have baffles for these newer 6" models now. Here is a link to his web page: rick8260.wixsite.com/raytechsawLarry C. |
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agatewhisperer
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since May 2020
Posts: 833
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Post by agatewhisperer on Sept 9, 2020 22:31:22 GMT -5
So after some massaging, the bearing seems like it might work. Does anyone have some pictures and measurements of the baffle? The earlier model 10" Raytech slab/trim saw didn't have a baffle. But the baffles were a needed addition to the design that helps keep the coolant from leaking out around the arbor hole. I've had a couple of the Raytech L-6S models and neither of them had baffles. I'm not sure if they were ever included on the 6" models. The 6" blades don't seem create the same need for them as the 10" saw blades did. But if you want to check, Rick Scott does still make a 6" trim saw (just not with the autofeed and hood that the older 6" models had)so he may have baffles for these newer 6" models now. Here is a link to his web page: rick8260.wixsite.com/raytechsawLarry C. Thanks for the tip. I contacted him. They don't have any baffles right not but have replacement arbors if anyone needs one. Said the 6 inch saw could run without the baffle but would still recommend it. Awaiting some more details on what happens without it. |
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