|
Post by oregon on Oct 29, 2020 22:01:53 GMT -5
Trying to get all the spacings right from the trim saw blade to bearing directions, flange mounting points etc so the wheels also line up with the drippers... I think the spacers are mostly original, but certainly didn't come with diamonds & an expando back in the day...
Anyway, if you have one, and can shoot me a picture looking in the front, that would be grand. Probably just turn down some more custom spacers if I can find my thick pvc... Thanks
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Oct 30, 2020 6:12:28 GMT -5
I have that unit without the saw. I'll try for a photo soon.
|
|
AzRockGeek
has rocks in the head
Member since September 2016
Posts: 703
|
Post by AzRockGeek on Oct 30, 2020 8:42:21 GMT -5
Here is mine without the saw as well.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Oct 30, 2020 11:13:46 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Oct 30, 2020 14:30:02 GMT -5
Thanks for the pics... I imagine with other wheels etc, just need different spacers.
Just a bit of a tricky setup as the saw blade (slot in the table) dictates where the shaft should be aligned to, then the nut on the other end compresses the wheels together, so the bearing has to get locked down after that. A set screw bearing instead of a locking collar might have been a better choice here as much as I hate those.
The shaft has indents for the pulley set screw and a locking collar to the left of the wheels, which I'm guessing are factory? Just have to make some custom spacers and figure out how to lock the second bearing after mounting things.
Are the felt water spreaders just glued to the brass shims under the set screws?
Kinda like the beacon star equipment, came with the 10" saw that's been fun to test out!
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Oct 30, 2020 15:19:22 GMT -5
I understand. I had to assemble and reassemble after the initial bearing placement was not quite correct (when I changed wheels between the bearings on one occasion). Once you know there is a position problem you can correct before you lock everything down.
|
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Nov 2, 2020 17:22:18 GMT -5
Trying to get all the spacings right from the trim saw blade to bearing directions, flange mounting points etc so the wheels also line up with the drippers... I think the spacers are mostly original, but certainly didn't come with diamonds & an expando back in the day...
Anyway, if you have one, and can shoot me a picture looking in the front, that would be grand. Probably just turn down some more custom spacers if I can find my thick pvc... The photo below is what the original configuration of wheels, spacers, and stop collars looked like on the arbor of a Beacon Star 6" "Holiday Combo" model I used to have. The expando drum was original to that model but is not shown in my photo. Hope this helps. Larry C.
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Nov 3, 2020 0:33:45 GMT -5
The photo below is what the original configuration of wheels, spacers, and stop collars looked like on the arbor of a Beacon Star 6" "Holiday Combo" model I used to have. The expando drum was original to that model but is not shown in my photo. Hope this helps. Larry C. yeah, that's great. I think I ended up with just about the same thing, cut a couple custom spacers, and must have assembled/dis a couple dozen times to get every thing lined up. It looks like they tossed out the locking hub on the bearing on the right (or probably used it as the stop collar on the left of the wheels)? so that bearing is just floating on the shaft? Everything is thenl tightened down by the nut on the right. Seems like most shafts get damaged by a suspect bearing getting stiff and wearing, so I put a lock hub on there, locked it down after temporarily tightening things.
The saw blade has to fit the table, and the collar is dictated by a divot in the shaft, so combined length of the wheels, spacers/hubs is already determined then... of course they need to line up with the water outlets...
Two diamond wheels, and expando and a polishing plate on the end, seems like a pretty ideal unit. Thanks for the effort, hopefully the next person with find this.
did they originally have some kind of 'material' on the brass splash guards, or was it just the brass?
|
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Nov 7, 2020 10:58:02 GMT -5
The photo below is what the original configuration of wheels, spacers, and stop collars looked like on the arbor of a Beacon Star 6" "Holiday Combo" model I used to have. The expando drum was original to that model but is not shown in my photo. Hope this helps. Larry C. yeah, that's great. I think I ended up with just about the same thing, cut a couple custom spacers, and must have assembled/dis a couple dozen times to get every thing lined up. It looks like they tossed out the locking hub on the bearing on the right (or probably used it as the stop collar on the left of the wheels)? so that bearing is just floating on the shaft? Everything is thenl tightened down by the nut on the right. Seems like most shafts get damaged by a suspect bearing getting stiff and wearing, so I put a lock hub on there, locked it down after temporarily tightening things.
The saw blade has to fit the table, and the collar is dictated by a divot in the shaft, so combined length of the wheels, spacers/hubs is already determined then... of course they need to line up with the water outlets...
Two diamond wheels, and expando and a polishing plate on the end, seems like a pretty ideal unit. Thanks for the effort, hopefully the next person with find this. did they originally have some kind of 'material' on the brass splash guards, or was it just the brass?
Only the left bearing had stop collars. The right bearing did not. So you line up the saw blade in the saw blade slot and then tighten the left bearing's stop collars to keep the saw blade in position. Then tighten the arbor nut on the right end of the wheel assembly. It was designed this way so that when the right arbor shaft nut is tightened it tightens up all of the wheels/spacers without moving the blade. The original splash guards were aluminum. They may have had rubber or cork guards on the edges originally but I do not remember for sure. The aluminum splash guards distance from the wheels could be adjusted by thumb screws that were threaded through holes in the front of the housing like so: Larry C.
|
|