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Post by jasoninsd on Dec 28, 2020 18:08:43 GMT -5
That amethyst sage is the bomb! I love that tri-swoop!  |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Dec 28, 2020 18:40:36 GMT -5
Awesome cabs,
They all look great to me.
But if i may?
1) in my original tutorial?
I mentioned keeping the Cab at three
O’clock on the wheel.
Mind u , i also use 8 “ wheels.
That being said?
Lets keep the VERY TOP
Of the “ ground to shape already”
Preform, at 3 o’clock,
That way you hit maximum swoop
Capacity.,,
Also mind you,
I rarely ever make a cab under 50 mm tall.
So a nice 54-56 mm tall cab will grant a voluptuous
Swoop.
One more key is :
After your swoop is completed on your FLAT cab?
Start the initial doming by knocking down
The top corner evenly around the entire cab
This is important to ensure the swoop stays pronounced.
I tell you, once it clicks? .. it clicks.!!
And you will be saying” man that was easy!”
So i never had any lessons.. never watched any videos..
i was just inspired by what i thought( think) were
Neat shapes .
A lot of artists here on this forum
Inspired me to a great degree.
this Forum is a great resource for those who want
To learn,
I have a lot of learning left to do,
But what i have learned so far?
I will gladly share with others..
Any time you want to reach out to me in a PM
Or email or whatever
I’ll do what i can.
Lets have a Great new year.
Paul
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Post by jasoninsd on Dec 28, 2020 19:54:50 GMT -5
Awesome cabs, They all look great to me. But if i may? 1) in my original tutorial? I mentioned keeping the Cab at three O’clock on the wheel. Mind u , i also use 8 “ wheels. That being said? Lets keep the VERY TOP Of the “ ground to shape already” Preform, at 3 o’clock, That way you hit maximum swoop Capacity.,, Also mind you, I rarely ever make a cab under 50 mm tall. So a nice 54-56 mm tall cab will grant a voluptuous Swoop. One more key is : After your swoop is completed on your FLAT cab? Start the initial doming by knocking down The top corner evenly around the entire cab This is important to ensure the swoop stays pronounced. I tell you, once it clicks? .. it clicks.!! And you will be saying” man that was easy!” So i never had any lessons.. never watched any videos.. i was just inspired by what i thought( think) were Neat shapes . A lot of artists here on this forum Inspired me to a great degree. this Forum is a great resource for those who want To learn, I have a lot of learning left to do, But what i have learned so far? I will gladly share with others.. Any time you want to reach out to me in a PM Or email or whatever I’ll do what i can. Lets have a Great new year. Paul That's a super nice offer Paul. If I could "like" this post more than once, I would! Huge kudos to you! |
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Post by stephan on Dec 28, 2020 23:26:23 GMT -5
Awesome cabs, They all look great to me. But if i may? 1) in my original tutorial? I mentioned keeping the Cab at three O’clock on the wheel. Mind u , i also use 8 “ wheels. That being said? Lets keep the VERY TOP Of the “ ground to shape already” Preform, at 3 o’clock, That way you hit maximum swoop Capacity.,, Also mind you, I rarely ever make a cab under 50 mm tall. So a nice 54-56 mm tall cab will grant a voluptuous Swoop. One more key is : After your swoop is completed on your FLAT cab? Start the initial doming by knocking down The top corner evenly around the entire cab This is important to ensure the swoop stays pronounced. I tell you, once it clicks? .. it clicks.!! And you will be saying” man that was easy!” So i never had any lessons.. never watched any videos.. i was just inspired by what i thought( think) were Neat shapes . A lot of artists here on this forum Inspired me to a great degree. this Forum is a great resource for those who want To learn, I have a lot of learning left to do, But what i have learned so far? I will gladly share with others.. Any time you want to reach out to me in a PM Or email or whatever I’ll do what i can. Lets have a Great new year. Paul Keep in mind, these predate the tutorial. I’ve made some taller cabs with a single swoop, too. Just showing some variations. Haven’t had a chance... yet... to try your approach. |
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NevadaBill
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2019
Posts: 1,332
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Post by NevadaBill on Jan 2, 2021 18:55:56 GMT -5
Those are really creative, Stephen. You have a good muscle memory I think. The two appear to be exact replicas of each other in both size and dimension.
I might try this on my next grinder session. Although I have to admit now that I might not have the skill to wrap it inside of wire just yet; which is how I finish cabs these days.
Thank you for the idea.
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NevadaBill
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2019
Posts: 1,332
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Post by NevadaBill on Jan 2, 2021 19:00:25 GMT -5
Awesome cabs, They all look great to me. But if i may? 1) in my original tutorial? I mentioned keeping the Cab at three O’clock on the wheel. Mind u , i also use 8 “ wheels. That being said? Lets keep the VERY TOP Of the “ ground to shape already” Preform, at 3 o’clock, That way you hit maximum swoop Capacity.,, Also mind you, I rarely ever make a cab under 50 mm tall. So a nice 54-56 mm tall cab will grant a voluptuous Swoop. One more key is : After your swoop is completed on your FLAT cab? Start the initial doming by knocking down The top corner evenly around the entire cab This is important to ensure the swoop stays pronounced. I tell you, once it clicks? .. it clicks.!! And you will be saying” man that was easy!” So i never had any lessons.. never watched any videos.. i was just inspired by what i thought( think) were Neat shapes . A lot of artists here on this forum Inspired me to a great degree. this Forum is a great resource for those who want To learn, I have a lot of learning left to do, But what i have learned so far? I will gladly share with others.. Any time you want to reach out to me in a PM Or email or whatever I’ll do what i can. Lets have a Great new year. Paul More great tips, Paul. Thank you for adding to my notes. I had not returned to this thread to notice that you posted again.
It will require plenty of practice for sure. Every attempt adds up. Just keep coming back to it to work on it for sure.
Perhaps one day when I think that I get it right, I'll return to post more again.
Thank you.
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Post by stephan on Jan 4, 2021 1:44:35 GMT -5
Those are really creative, Stephen. You have a good muscle memory I think. The two appear to be exact replicas of each other in both size and dimension.
I might try this on my next grinder session. Although I have to admit now that I might not have the skill to wrap it inside of wire just yet; which is how I finish cabs these days.
Thank you for the idea.
Thanks, Bill. I haven't crossed that bridge yet, but I can imagine that a concave curve might present a wire-wrapping challenge. At the moment, I bypass that issue by using beaver-tail glue-tabs (you can see the loop of one on the amethyst sage cab. the back looks like this:  IMG_6853_Back of a Crazy Lace Agate cab by Stephan T., on Flickr One thing to note: these work better if the back of the cab is unpolished and a little rough. |
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Post by jasoninsd on Jan 4, 2021 8:17:12 GMT -5
Those are really creative, Stephen. You have a good muscle memory I think. The two appear to be exact replicas of each other in both size and dimension.
I might try this on my next grinder session. Although I have to admit now that I might not have the skill to wrap it inside of wire just yet; which is how I finish cabs these days.
Thank you for the idea.
Thanks, Bill. I haven't crossed that bridge yet, but I can imagine that a concave curve might present a wire-wrapping challenge. At the moment, I bypass that issue by using beaver-tail glue-tabs (you can see the loop of one on the amethyst sage cab. the back looks like this: IMG_6853_Back of a Crazy Lace Agate cab by Stephan T., on Flickr One thing to note: these work better if the back of the cab is unpolished and a little rough. I love seeing the members post pics of some amazing wrap work...but this is more my style of what I would do with my cabs. Thanks for posting this Stephan. I hadn't even thought of something like this. What kind of adhesive to you use? I know Gorilla Super Glue holds the stones on wooden dop sticks like nobody's business! LOL |
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Post by stephan on Jan 4, 2021 11:21:03 GMT -5
Thanks, Bill. I haven't crossed that bridge yet, but I can imagine that a concave curve might present a wire-wrapping challenge. At the moment, I bypass that issue by using beaver-tail glue-tabs (you can see the loop of one on the amethyst sage cab. the back looks like this: IMG_6853_Back of a Crazy Lace Agate cab by Stephan T., on Flickr One thing to note: these work better if the back of the cab is unpolished and a little rough. I love seeing the members post pics of some amazing wrap work...but this is more my style of what I would do with my cabs. Thanks for posting this Stephan. I hadn't even thought of something like this. What kind of adhesive to you use? I know Gorilla Super Glue holds the stones on wooden dop sticks like nobody's business! LOL Yep> Superglue. Haven't always used the Gorilla version, but that'll be the one going forward. Holds cabs on nails more tightly than I'm used to. Which makes me think... might be a good option for stabilizing/filling cracks in dino bone and MHPJ, for those interested in going that route. |
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Post by jasoninsd on Jan 4, 2021 11:23:42 GMT -5
I love seeing the members post pics of some amazing wrap work...but this is more my style of what I would do with my cabs. Thanks for posting this Stephan. I hadn't even thought of something like this. What kind of adhesive to you use? I know Gorilla Super Glue holds the stones on wooden dop sticks like nobody's business! LOL Yep> Superglue. Haven't always used the Gorilla version, but that'll be the one going forward. Holds cabs on nails more tightly than I'm used to. Which makes me think... might be a good option for stabilizing/filling cracks in dino bone and MHPJ, for those interested in going that route. I've been using the gel, but I might pick up some "regular" to see about the stabilization... |
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NevadaBill
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2019
Posts: 1,332
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Post by NevadaBill on Jan 6, 2021 13:24:45 GMT -5
Those are really creative, Stephen. You have a good muscle memory I think. The two appear to be exact replicas of each other in both size and dimension.
I might try this on my next grinder session. Although I have to admit now that I might not have the skill to wrap it inside of wire just yet; which is how I finish cabs these days.
Thank you for the idea.
Thanks, Bill. I haven't crossed that bridge yet, but I can imagine that a concave curve might present a wire-wrapping challenge. At the moment, I bypass that issue by using beaver-tail glue-tabs (you can see the loop of one on the amethyst sage cab. the back looks like this: IMG_6853_Back of a Crazy Lace Agate cab by Stephan T., on Flickr One thing to note: these work better if the back of the cab is unpolished and a little rough. Thank you for the tip on the Beaver Tail. Wow! What a fitting rock specimen you have for that application as well! It looks like it was meant for a Beaver Tail really. I think I understand that leaving the surface rough would give the glue something to grab on to. Makes perfect sense. Thanks for this little tidbit. It's going in to my book of notes that I keep. |
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IMG_5377_Amethyst sage agate freeform necklace by Stephan T., on Flickr
DSC_1354_Unknown pet wood cab front view by Stephan T., on Flickr
