|
|
Post by Bob on Jan 8, 2021 17:39:56 GMT -5
The first 4.5 years of my tumbling were spent w/o a saw. If the problem part of a rock couldn't be broken off with a chisel, well, it just meant more months--sometime MANY months--in rough grind until I defeated the rock. A year ago I got a 7" tile saw and it really helped but it just can't keep up with what I need. I ran it on water with a lube additive and of course had to go real slow. Finally last month found a used 10" lapidary saw and am going to post the pics and then ask a few questions. I didn't take these pics, they are from the person who sold it to me.    |
|
|
|
Post by jasoninsd on Jan 8, 2021 17:45:01 GMT -5
Oooh...that's going to be a fun little project for you Bob!  |
|
|
|
Post by Bob on Jan 8, 2021 17:45:42 GMT -5
It seems to be well made. All parts that can be are aluminum for no rust. I have purchased the mineral oil and am cleaning everything and mounting the motor and it onto a board and so forth carefully. The saw shaft doesn't spin as freely as I would like, so there is a chance it needs new bearings but I will find out after I have let it run a bit. The motor is sound, 1,750 RPM. I've obtained the run speed table for lapidary saws from Covington and it looks like that speed is a decent place to start so I will start with like-size pulleys on motor and saw shaft to see how it goes.
My question at this time is about the blade. The MK blade is a known brand and the amount of edge left is good. However, the blade is slightly warped when slowly rotated by hand. Maybe it sways back and forth up to 1mm slowly. Does that mean I should throw it away and get a new one? Or once up to speed might it flatten out and saw fine?
|
|
|
|
Post by Bob on Jan 8, 2021 17:53:41 GMT -5
Jason, I really didn't want to spend $1,500 for a new one as I'm not going to be into slabbing and all that and I don't mind refurbing used tools because I'm handy. That's a lot of money--I could fly to China and back for that and also have money left over. However, even used ones would usually got for almost $1,000. When I saw this on eBay for $400 shipping included, I jumped on it.
I realize now after studying it that one like this in which the shaft is above the table is a bit uncommon compared to most where the shaft is below the table. I can't remove the blade for instance w/o first removing the shaft assembly from the table via those 4 allen head bolts. It guess the other type is a matter of lifting the table off the tank, and then removing the blade then with no other steps than dealing with the blade nut.
But I figure blade changes aren't going to be that frequent. It will sure be a new thing for me to have to soak rocks in some kind of soapy solution to get rid of the mineral oil.
|
|
hummingbirdstones2
fully equipped rock polisher
Vince A., 1958-2023
Member since August 2018
Posts: 1,461
|
Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Jan 8, 2021 18:09:02 GMT -5
Should be a good saw for you.
If you were trimming preforms for cabs the arbor above the table would be a plus. Prevents cutting too far on the bottom of the slab.
|
|
|
|
Post by toiv0 on Jan 8, 2021 18:16:23 GMT -5
Should be a good saw for you.
If you were trimming preforms for cabs the arbor above the table would be a plus. Prevents cutting too far on the bottom of the slab.
Just what I was going to say. I just picked up its twin. |
|
|
|
Post by Bob on Jan 8, 2021 18:17:12 GMT -5
Should be a good saw for you.
If you were trimming preforms for cabs the arbor above the table would be a plus. Prevents cutting too far on the bottom of the slab.
The steel rounded arbor washer right there also gives me true max reach of the blade for cutting depth. There is no table thickness or table insert thickness to get in my way of using all the depth that the blade has to offer. |
|
hummingbirdstones2
fully equipped rock polisher
Vince A., 1958-2023
Member since August 2018
Posts: 1,461
|
Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Jan 8, 2021 21:04:23 GMT -5
Yeah, for what you'll be doing it's a great saw.
We have an antique "Victor" brand 10" that's similar, except that the arbor is under the table. I use it almost exclusively for windowing, hand-slabbing, or squaring up chunks to fit in a vise. Have a .050" Hot Dog blade on it, and it does a great job for that kind of work.
|
|
quartz
Cave Dweller 
breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,296
|
Post by quartz on Jan 8, 2021 23:04:04 GMT -5
For what you plan to do with the saw a 1mm runout of the blade shouldn't be a problem, and it might straighten itself out during a cut. I've encountered few blades with a bit of runout like that, a little careful measuring of the position of the runout and some careful pulling and pushing can often work most of it out.
|
|
|
|
Post by Bob on Jan 10, 2021 0:53:08 GMT -5
Thanks for tips about the blade. Should be able to test it tomorrow.
|
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Jan 10, 2021 2:52:52 GMT -5
Should be a good saw for you.
If you were trimming preforms for cabs the arbor above the table would be a plus. Prevents cutting too far on the bottom of the slab.
The steel rounded arbor washer right there also gives me true max reach of the blade for cutting depth. There is no table thickness or table insert thickness to get in my way of using all the depth that the blade has to offer. I refurbed one of these last year, nice saw. it was set up with an autofeed that basically brought the table level up above the flange if that makes sense. So if you wanted to cut larger slabs say, you could just build a table to get you above the flange/arbor.
- the perpendicular blade has it's uses.
- I think the pulley sizes were a little larger? not sure you might want to check the recommended blade speed...
sry the only pic I posted, I'm sure google will help you, the new Tc-10 is still pretty similar?
|
|
|
|
Post by Bob on Jan 10, 2021 20:22:46 GMT -5
Is it a sure thing that I will need a cover for splashing oil?
Your saw is so fancy on top I can barely recognize the base.
|
|
|
|
Post by Bob on Jan 10, 2021 20:27:44 GMT -5
If I gave to build a splash cover it would have to have holes for my hands.
|
|
RWA3006
Cave Dweller
Member since March 2009
Posts: 3,718 
|
Post by RWA3006 on Jan 10, 2021 22:55:46 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by Bob on Jan 11, 2021 15:48:46 GMT -5
|
|
saxplayer
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since March 2018
Posts: 1,325
|
Post by saxplayer on Jan 11, 2021 17:28:58 GMT -5
Lookin' good!
|
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Jan 11, 2021 18:59:19 GMT -5
Is it a sure thing that I will need a cover for splashing oil? Your saw is so fancy on top I can barely recognize the base. nope, the whole autofeed contraption/vise lifts off with two thumbscrews. pretty clever. Always good to *try* to contain the oil.
Your mounts look impressive. I still think you should check your pulleys/blade speed. With the pulleys I see (5:2 or such) , it looks like you'll be driving the blade way faster than the manufacturers suggest? assuming a generic 1725rpm motor... www.mkdiamond.com/lapidary/tec_speed.html
|
|
|
|
Post by Bob on Jan 11, 2021 21:32:49 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by Bob on Jan 11, 2021 21:34:04 GMT -5
Wow, very surprised how smooth it runs w/o load.
|
|
|
|
Post by Bob on Jan 11, 2021 21:36:00 GMT -5
|
|
