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Post by jasoninsd on Feb 16, 2021 9:30:11 GMT -5
With luck, you might find nylon bushings at a hardware store. Might have to "turn" the OD down a bit to get exactly what you want. If you have to do that you might as well just make something from scratch.
Concentricity will be the problem. That's why I was thinking off-the-shelf bushings, even if they had to be nested like plastic arbor bushings.
Thanks for chiming in Vince. I think that could definitely work, if a person can get the piece manufactured precise enough. I think I'm going to try and find a piece of material that is about 1mm thick and about 2" long. If the piece can be secured under the edge of the bit, the movement/spinning of the stop can be eliminated (versus a bushing or washer that would be spinning with the bit). This would cause less friction on the cab and require less precise manufacturing. Something kind of like this:
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Post by hummingbirdstones on Feb 16, 2021 9:55:59 GMT -5
With luck, you might find nylon bushings at a hardware store. Might have to "turn" the OD down a bit to get exactly what you want. If you have to do that you might as well just make something from scratch.
Concentricity will be the problem. That's why I was thinking off-the-shelf bushings, even if they had to be nested like plastic arbor bushings.
Thanks for chiming in Vince. I think that could definitely work, if a person can get the piece manufactured precise enough. I think I'm going to try and find a piece of material that is about 1mm thick and about 2" long. If the piece can be secured under the edge of the bit, the movement/spinning of the stop can be eliminated (versus a bushing or washer that would be spinning with the bit). This would cause less friction on the cab and require less precise manufacturing. Something kind of like this: Yup, that could work.
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Feb 16, 2021 10:02:15 GMT -5
Metal bars from hanging file folders. Have used both hook bars from folders and frame parts for random projects. Old hacksaw blades... .
I had previously asked Robin if there were fences for the glass grinders. Should be easy to set up with the honeycomb holes on the table.
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Post by jasoninsd on Feb 16, 2021 10:10:03 GMT -5
Metal bars from hanging file folders. Have used both hook bars from folders and frame parts for random projects. Old hacksaw blades... .
I had previously asked Robin if there were fences for the glass grinders. Should be easy to set up with the honeycomb holes on the table.
Perfect suggestion! I've been scouring the house looking for something that would work and the hook bars from the folders would be ideal! You're awesome Vince!
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Post by miket on Feb 16, 2021 10:18:20 GMT -5
And no, like I've said before I consider everything I do to be practice, and I put stuff on here because I want input. Good and/or bad! Is considered input? I believe so. And thanks, Stephan!
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Post by miket on Feb 16, 2021 10:26:28 GMT -5
I really am enjoying this discussion, thanks for all of the suggestions! One question, however... Wouldn't the guide (whatever it is) have to be set low enough to accommodate different thicknesses of girdles? I'm just asking because my style of cabbing is more of the "whatever" style than precise measurements.
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Post by jasoninsd on Feb 16, 2021 11:19:13 GMT -5
I really am enjoying this discussion, thanks for all of the suggestions! One question, however... Wouldn't the guide (whatever it is) have to be set low enough to accommodate different thicknesses of girdles? I'm just asking because my style of cabbing is more of the "whatever" style than precise measurements. Mike, that's actually a really great point. I too had thought the same question. With the strip underneath being only 1mm thick, that would only accommodate a certain amount of girdle heights. For extremely thin girdles, a thinner strip would be needed and then you run the risk of the cab "skipping" over the top of the stop. In the cases with extremely thin girdles, I think the bushing would be necessary. For me, in those cases, I think I'd use the marking on top of the bit and just use the "visual" reference, rather than the mechanical stop.
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Post by parfive on Feb 16, 2021 13:19:12 GMT -5
If you don’t want to try the bushing-on-the-bit route . . .
Piece of 90° angle stock, either plastic or thin sheet metal*, with the cutter plunge-cut through the upright/short side of the L.
Slotted hole on one end of the fence to fine tune depth of cut.
Cab sits inside the L. Initial height of cut set when making plunge cut. Thin shim under a cab if it would benefit from a lower cut on the girdle. Piece of paper, card stock, playing card, tape, whatever.
* like a piece of 1” x 3” rake edge off a roofing job
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Post by parfive on Feb 16, 2021 13:24:53 GMT -5
Fence is NG for inside swoops. Need the bushing for them puppies. : )
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Post by rockjunquie on Feb 16, 2021 13:37:40 GMT -5
I thought I saw a suggestion somewhere that all you need to do is put a sharpie mark at the correct depth on the blade. Of course, you would have to adjust for wear.
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Post by jasoninsd on Feb 16, 2021 15:09:05 GMT -5
If you don’t want to try the bushing-on-the-bit route . . . Piece of 90° angle stock, either plastic or thin sheet metal*, with the cutter plunge-cut through the upright/short side of the L. Slotted hole on one end of the fence to fine tune depth of cut. Cab sits inside the L. Initial height of cut set when making plunge cut. Thin shim under a cab if it would benefit from a lower cut on the girdle. Piece of paper, card stock, playing card, tape, whatever. * like a piece of 1” x 3” rake edge off a roofing job It took me a minute to visualize this, but you're right! This would work amazingly well as well. And yes, you're also right about the "inside swoop". I thought I saw a suggestion somewhere that all you need to do is put a sharpie mark at the correct depth on the blade. Of course, you would have to adjust for wear. I did say something about that a ways back in the thread. That would only be a visual reference and wouldn't provide a mechanical (physical) stop.
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