standles
spending too much on rocks
Well all I got was a rock ... Cool!
Member since February 2021
Posts: 325 
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Post by standles on Mar 31, 2021 8:46:20 GMT -5
All. So what do you look at when deciding how to cut the rock in front of you up into slabs for most patterning/color/useability? I know some are easy that have patterning (crazy lace, mookite) that extends to exterior. But some agate rocks don't show that patterning or even worse some just look like nothing but you know its a hidden gem. Do you cut in middle and decide or cut a piece off end look and adjust as needed? Do you see clues in rocks formation (nodules, length vs width, warts etc) that guide you? I ask because my trim saw gets delivered Fri and I am already planning the cuts for the weekend.  Looking forward to your experience and guidance. Steven |
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Post by manofglass on Mar 31, 2021 9:46:57 GMT -5
Gluing rocks to blocks may help with that saw That is what I do with smaller stone and stone that is to thin to hold onto  I use a push stick in one hand to feed the stone into the blade Hold onto the block with the other hand I use yellow wood glue |
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standles
spending too much on rocks
Well all I got was a rock ... Cool!
Member since February 2021
Posts: 325
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Post by standles on Mar 31, 2021 12:05:11 GMT -5
Gluing rocks to blocks may help with that saw That is what I do with smaller stone and stone that is to thin to hold onto I use a push stick in one hand to feed the stone into the blade Hold onto the block with the other hand I use yellow wood glue I had not thought of that. Thanks for the tip... There are a lot of good tips that I can’t cover so hopefully you get some advice from others, but here’s a little info I can provide. Thanks Jade... Definitely some good tip there. |
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller 
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,496
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Post by Sabre52 on Mar 31, 2021 12:05:54 GMT -5
I agree that if you are looking for specimens, cut through the middle so you will have two nice halves. For slabbing material, where I cannot see the inside, I start from the end to get the most slabs if it's good. Of course, when I field collect, I don't like carrying leaverites so I judiciously chip my finds that show no pattern and that usually gives some insight as to what's inside so I don't waste time carrying heavy useless rocks. I also chip ( especially larger hunks of rock) to see texture, fractures, pits etc because wasting diamond blade saw time on duds sucks too.
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Post by stardiamond on Mar 31, 2021 15:08:13 GMT -5
My first concern is making a cut where the rock won't slip. Next, I take my best guess and decide what to do next. One material I know where the cut orientation matters is Montana and finding the pattern is like an Easter egg hunt. The most critical is Bruneau.
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Post by HankRocks on Mar 31, 2021 18:51:48 GMT -5
Have also noticed that Tiger Eye has the same issue with orientation. The chatoyancy can be much better in one direction and almost disappears turning it 90 degrees.
I do a lot of gluing to wood, especially for the 10 inch saw. When cutting a larger rock on the 24 inch saw I usually cut off an end piece that will fit on the 10 inch saw, glued to wood. That save cuts on the 24 inch, save the blade and delay the cleanout. I have started do a lot of gluing for pieces for the 24 inch. The glue drying time is longer, 3 weeks as compared to 1 week for the smaller rocks for the 10 inch.
As far as which rock to cut and how to orient. really depends on the shape of the rock. Some just refuse to be clamped with the cut orientation I want. For those a cut 90 degrees to desired orientation can create a flat side that makes clamping possible for the desired orientation.
Finding cut rocks in estate collections is always a plus. You know what's inside and you have a gluing plane if you need it.
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Post by greig on Mar 31, 2021 22:40:47 GMT -5
'The first cut is the deepest,
Baby, I know, the first cut is the deepest,
'Cause when it comes to being lucky, she's cursed..."
Rod Stewart
Good luck with your new saw. Sometimes, there is a small learning curve when slicing similar rocks from the same location. Cut one and see how it looks ... either cut a window on one side or rip it right up the middle ... and you might know what you want to do with the next one(s).
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stefan
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,113
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Post by stefan on Apr 1, 2021 18:11:47 GMT -5
Yes what everyone else said! I usually try to make a couple cuts at right angles to each other to see what I can see.
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standles
spending too much on rocks
Well all I got was a rock ... Cool!
Member since February 2021
Posts: 325
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Post by standles on Apr 1, 2021 20:22:20 GMT -5
Thanks for the pointers everyone. When i get up and running ill post dome pics
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Apr 1, 2021 21:44:48 GMT -5
Hello there!
Looked your saw up on their website, and I didn't see any kind of a vise on it. Does it have an add-on vise, or just the fence?
I slab a lot of rocks - oddly shaped ones mostly - on an old 10" saw with a fence. It's easy enough to slice up small ones after the first heel cut. Just be sure to square the fence up parallel to the core of your blade.
For larger pieces you can saw one side, and then slide that flat surface along on the table for slabs from the end. If there isn't a vise, you might want a simple sheet metal pan under the rock to keep from wearing grooves into the surface of your saw table.
If you have picture jaspers or other patterned rough you willl want to "investigate" a bit before slabbing. Slicing off a heel, or an odd protrusion on the sides can help you figure out pattern orientation. Sometimes just cleaning them up with a wire brush will yield some clues if the rind isn't too thick.
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standles
spending too much on rocks
Well all I got was a rock ... Cool!
Member since February 2021
Posts: 325
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Post by standles on Apr 2, 2021 8:03:57 GMT -5
Hello there!
Looked your saw up on their website, and I didn't see any kind of a vise on it. Does it have an add-on vise, or just the fence?
I slab a lot of rocks - oddly shaped ones mostly - on an old 10" saw with a fence. It's easy enough to slice up small ones after the first heel cut. Just be sure to square the fence up parallel to the core of your blade.
For larger pieces you can saw one side, and then slide that flat surface along on the table for slabs from the end. If there isn't a vise, you might want a simple sheet metal pan under the rock to keep from wearing grooves into the surface of your saw table.
If you have picture jaspers or other patterned rough you willl want to "investigate" a bit before slabbing. Slicing off a heel, or an odd protrusion on the sides can help you figure out pattern orientation. Sometimes just cleaning them up with a wire brush will yield some clues if the rind isn't too thick.
Good morning. You are correct. I did not see a vise included but it is supposed to have a fence. Once I got it I was going to see if I could make or adat a gravity feed vise to the saw. That said the initial usage will be freehand and using the fence. Thanks for the other tips as well. While initially I will slab some with the saw I still plan on getting a proper slab saw (18") when my wallet recovers.  |
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Post by stardiamond on Apr 3, 2021 12:40:31 GMT -5
I bought a small gravity feed slab saw that used oil. I couldn't get it to work. It might have with a better blade. The only problem with hand feed is excessive blade wear.
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standles
spending too much on rocks
Well all I got was a rock ... Cool!
Member since February 2021
Posts: 325
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Post by standles on Apr 3, 2021 12:57:05 GMT -5
I bought a small gravity feed slab saw that used oil. I couldn't get it to work. It might have with a better blade. The only problem with hand feed is excessive blade wear. I saw all that you mentioned in research I did before purchase. I settled on this on because it is spinning the blade at 4000RPM with 1HP motor. Additionally, it has blade guides under the deck and direct water jets on top rather than pickup from sump so hoping all that together mitigates wear and allows faster cutting. I did hand slice a few sodalight and jasper pieces yesterday and it did great. Time will tell on longevity... |
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Fossilman
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,723
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Post by Fossilman on Apr 3, 2021 14:15:06 GMT -5
If I know what the interior is, I will half it, than glue to the boards.
If I don't know, I window an edge, take a peek, than go from there...
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Apr 3, 2021 14:55:42 GMT -5
standles - You might want to check RPM or SFM recommendations for your blade. You can usually find SFM (Surface Feet per Minute) ranges listed for your blades on the manufacturers websites.
Here's one that shows SFM ranges for MK-301 and MK-303 blades, with corresponding RPM ranges accoding to the blade diameter:
Running a blade too fast will just kill the blade faster. There are calculators online for determining blade RPM according to pulley sizes you're using.
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standles
spending too much on rocks
Well all I got was a rock ... Cool!
Member since February 2021
Posts: 325
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Post by standles on Apr 3, 2021 15:46:37 GMT -5
standles - You might want to check RPM or SFM recommendations for your blade. You can usually find SFM (Surface Feet per Minute) ranges listed for your blades on the manufacturers websites.
Here's one that shows SFM ranges for MK-301 and MK-303 blades, with corresponding RPM ranges accoding to the blade diameter:
Running a blade too fast will just kill the blade faster. There are calculators online for determining blade RPM according to pulley sizes you're using.
Agreed.. There seems to be two type of blades. The lower speeds ones in the chart you lnked to then others that are specifically made to run at higher speeds such as the BD-305 Agate Kutter saw blades. Currently the saw is setup as high speed only but I plan on putting a step pulley on it to allow speed choice and larger blade variety choice as well. |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2021 9:48:02 GMT -5
When i first got my saw?
I cut every rock i could find, just cause i could.
Now, three blades later, and hundreds of ( thousands?)
Dollars, i have become more selective.
You will learn, over time, the easiest,
And most consistent way to do things.
In regards to your new saw?
It looks like a trim saw no?
I would clamp down a 2x4 to use as a guide
For your glue blocks,
A couple big “c” clamps should work.
There is always a lot of jigging, and rigging
Going on with saws, especially when it comes to securing rocks
In larger saws.
I would not recommend any sort of gravity feed for this saw,
I do not believe it was designed as such.
Have fun, its the most importsnt thing,
As well as your safety.
Paul
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