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Post by Rockindad on Apr 4, 2021 10:48:03 GMT -5
As we get deeper and deeper into this hobby our expanding interests are exceeding our equipment capabilities in some areas. 80% of what we do now is tumbling and we are well equipped for that, but as we evolve we are needing more capacity in the slabbing department. We use a 6" trim saw and a 7" tile saw currently and can cut small slabs (just over 2" high) pretty well. We are accumulating more and more large rough that we do not want to break down due to obvious unique features that we would like to save for our burgeoning interest in cabbing. For the record, on materials that have a more consistent pattern throughout we have no problem using hammers, chisels, grinders, wedges, etc., and have even used a 14" cutoff saw on occasion. So in the interest of doing a more refined job we are in the market for a proper slab saw or two. Looking for recommendations on sizes, makes, models, etc. What did you do and would you do it again? Any and all advice appreciated. My current thinking is that we would probably top out at a 20"-24" saw. This one would probably be used and can wait until a good deal comes along, this may be a very long while as we do not live in a lapidary hotbed. To get up an running sooner I would like to get a new 14" +/- that would enable us to tackle some of the material we have on hand. If/when we would get the bigger saw, the smaller saw would still be the workhorse to save wear and tear on the bigger (oil, blade, etc.). Most of this strategy was developed by taking bits and pieces from many posts on the forum but I have not seen one exactly like this. Looking for everybody's experiences good and bad, and anything I may not be thinking about. Thanks, Al P.S. By the way- We gave our son a National Geographic "Pro" tumbler and some rocks on Christmas Day 2019 and this is where we are now . This has been one slippery slope!
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irlcjrohr
starting to spend too much on rocks
If it does not melt, polish it.
Member since April 2020
Posts: 123
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Post by irlcjrohr on Apr 4, 2021 10:55:54 GMT -5
I think the National Geographic "Pro" tumbler is a a gateway "drug" for this rock based addiction.
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Apr 4, 2021 11:29:01 GMT -5
Yep, you're on your way now for sure. Be alert for rabbits trying to get back out of this rabbit hole... .
We have eight saws (4" to 18") and sometimes wish for a 24", but can get by without it.
What I use most are the 10", 14" (drop saw), and 18". If you can get a drop saw - or any other 14" with a "vertical" vise it will be a invaluable at times. The two bolts that the upper jaw slides over make it possible to wedge the sides of odd-shaped pieces in with wood blocks. Your rough is then restrained on all four sides.
The 10" is the most versatile. With a .050" blade on it to reduce deflection you can window or hand-slab oddly shaped rough, or square it up for your other saw. A vise on a 10" lets us use thinner blades for higher quality rough.
Hope this helps.
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stefan
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,113
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Post by stefan on Apr 4, 2021 17:11:47 GMT -5
Hmmm I have been thinking about a "big" saw for almost 15 years now. Missed a chance on a 16" slabber and came very close to getting a new 14" So here are my thoughts. I NEVER hear anyone complaints that their saw is too big. I would go with a 16" Then rent it out to someone that lives nearby (hint hint)and when you are ready to cab, well I know someone with a cabber for sale (wink wink) Seriously I would pay to slab some stuff, or even trade slabs for saw time. Then when you get the bigger saw, well I know someone who would be interested in the smaller saw! Heck I could even see a deal where I could purchase a share in your saw. My biggest stumbling block right now is space for a saw. Just some things to contemplate
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Post by stardiamond on Apr 4, 2021 18:37:00 GMT -5
I buy, not collect rough and the rough I buy is generally expensive. A big saw eats a lot of rough and when I replaced the saw blade on my 16, I went to 14. I bought a 10 inch to reduce waste on smaller rocks. I was cutting small rocks with a large blade.
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Post by Rockindad on Apr 4, 2021 19:22:27 GMT -5
Yep, you're on your way now for sure. Be alert for rabbits trying to get back out of this rabbit hole... .
We have eight saws (4" to 18") and sometimes wish for a 24", but can get by without it.
What I use most are the 10", 14" (drop saw), and 18". If you can get a drop saw - or any other 14" with a "vertical" vise it will be a invaluable at times. The two bolts that the upper jaw slides over make it possible to wedge the sides of odd-shaped pieces in with wood blocks. Your rough is then restrained on all four sides.
The 10" is the most versatile. With a .050" blade on it to reduce deflection you can window or hand-slab oddly shaped rough, or square it up for your other saw. A vise on a 10" lets us use thinner blades for higher quality rough.
Hope this helps.
Very helpful Vince, thanks. A drop saw was not even on my radar, something else to think about. Al
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Post by Rockindad on Apr 4, 2021 19:52:32 GMT -5
I think a 10”-14” drop saw, or weight feed, is a good idea for the smaller saw too. They cut through smaller and softer stones quicker than a saw with a set feed rate, and slow down on hard stone which helps to save blade wear. There are less moving parts to wear out comparatively to a power feed, and less work for the electric motor. I do a lot of cutting on a 10” weight feed saw with a hood that still allows access to the vise giving me the option to stop the vise at the beginning of the cut which helps reduce deflection. To avoid deflection on power feed, with the exception of hydraulic drive saws, the saw needs to be turned off after the rock engages the blade, then disengage the feed and pull the vise carriage back, then start the cut again. For big saws I’d go for a 16”-18” for a couple different reasons, I really like my mk303s blades and these two sizes are hundreds cheaper than 20”-24” size. Logistics of moving the saw is another factor, my 24” hp weighs around 700lbs while my 18” great western is probably 200lbs. Having a 20”-24” will give you the opportunity to buy large rough for relatively cheap as most people don’t have the capability to cut large rocks, I often find the nicest rough at any given rock shop are the large pieces, but for cabbing I’d take a few smaller pieces over one large piece of any agate or jasper to get more variation. If I was in the market, I’d wait for a great western in good shape and go to great lengths to get it. These saws have a weight feed, and a hydraulic brake so you can set a max speed and stop the feed at the beginning of the cut without turning off the saw. Almost $300 difference between an 18" and 24". The cost to run these saws needs to be looked at as well- size of blades, how much oil is needed, etc. Lots to think about! Some real good info so far, I hope many others chime in to get as many viewpoints as possible. Al
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Post by Rockindad on Apr 5, 2021 19:23:42 GMT -5
I buy, not collect rough and the rough I buy is generally expensive. A big saw eats a lot of rough and when I replaced the saw blade on my 16, I went to 14. I bought a 10 inch to reduce waste on smaller rocks. I was cutting small rocks with a large blade. Curious if you use your larger saw to feed your smaller saw or do you mostly try to find rough that the 10" can handle. Al
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Post by stardiamond on Apr 5, 2021 19:48:16 GMT -5
I buy, not collect rough and the rough I buy is generally expensive. A big saw eats a lot of rough and when I replaced the saw blade on my 16, I went to 14. I bought a 10 inch to reduce waste on smaller rocks. I was cutting small rocks with a large blade. Curious if you use your larger saw to feed your smaller saw or do you mostly try to find rough that the 10" can handle. Al My larger saw is broken now and the smaller saw hasn't been unpacked. I have a lot of slabs to work on. I decided I needed to buy a smaller saw. I buy large rocks and small rocks and need to use an appropriate saw.
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