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Post by fernwood on Aug 21, 2021 16:53:57 GMT -5
Need some help.
I purchased some very thick slabs. They range from about 3/4" to 1.25" thick. They are all at least 4" by 6" in size.
How hard would it be to cut them into multiple slabs?
I have read where some glue heels onto a board to make it easier to get more slabs. Should this method work for thick slabs?
Thank you.
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Post by holajonathan on Aug 21, 2021 21:49:43 GMT -5
I've done it, but I struggled to get the first cut aligned perfectly so that the first slab is even thickness. 1-1/4" inch is thick enough I would try to use a slab grabber to get 1 or 2 cuts in before trying to glue to a board. If you got 2 good slabs out of the rock with the slab grabber, you might want to call it quits.
4"x6" or lager will require at least a 14" saw but probably a 16" or 18". With those size saws, you are probably using a blade with almost a 1/8" kerf, which is going to limit how many slabs you can get out of each one. Depending on what saws you have at your disposal, and how much you like the rough, you could cut them in half (perpendicular to the large face) and run the smaller halves through a 10" or 12" slab saw. It could be the difference between getting 2 vs 3 normal (1/4") slabs out of each thick slab.
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Post by HankRocks on Aug 22, 2021 7:27:03 GMT -5
I would glue them to pieces of wood. In my case I use Interior rated Wood Glue. Allowing sufficient time for proper curing is key to success. I allow about a week for smaller rocks on to the cut end of 2x4's for the 10 inch saw. For the 24" I use 4x4's and 4x6's allowing 2 weeks for curing. Experience with rocks coming loose has taught me not to short-cut the curing time. Patience is a virtue.
When aligning the rock in the vice, I measure how many cuts by counting turns on the lateral feed crank, 6 turns on the 24" gives me the slab size I want. It's unlikely that I always get all perfectly parallel slab sizes so I figure which end I want to be the sacrificial cut, it's usually the rough end or the first cut. After that the slabs are all good.
When finished the wood with the last piece of rock goes in a bucket of water and I just wait for that piece to separate. With so many rocks in the cutting queue long drying times and long soak-release times are not a big issue.
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Post by Rockoonz on Aug 22, 2021 9:00:18 GMT -5
Yep^^^ what Hank said. I use fresh cuts on the boards where I glue to end grain, and clamp for 2-3 days or more.
In most saws the bottom of the vice is perpendicular enough to the blade that if you glue it so it doesn't extend below the board on the bottom, you can clamp it all the way down in the vice and get a pretty parallel last slab. I stick the board out enough that I can use the saw to cut the board off real close to the wood, and after soaking in water for a few days it comes right off.
Another way I use boards is with rocks that are relatively flat on a face that I want to cut parallel to, gorilla glue comes in handy. It expands like a foam and fills gaps for a strong bond, but will have to be ground off.
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Post by Rockoonz on Aug 22, 2021 9:05:03 GMT -5
fernwood look at the pattern too, with a slab over 1" thick just clamping at 90 degrees and cutting a bunch of slabs that require less trimming for cabs may be a good option.
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Post by fernwood on Aug 22, 2021 9:30:37 GMT -5
Thanks for the great advice.
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JR8675309
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since August 2019
Posts: 807
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Post by JR8675309 on Aug 24, 2021 21:14:26 GMT -5
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Post by stardiamond on Aug 26, 2021 20:02:07 GMT -5
I've glued thick slabs to a board and used a slab saw. With the kerf 3/4 inch is probably too thin. Are you planning to sell the slabs or use them as cabbing material? For cabbing material, cut into smaller pieces at 90 degrees to the face and then split the smaller pieces using a trim saw.
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rewdownunder
spending too much on rocks
Member since March 2012
Posts: 357
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Post by rewdownunder on Aug 26, 2021 20:23:44 GMT -5
Once you get the material to trim saw size you can mount a fence along side the blade and cut it to almost any thickness you want depending on the thickness of the blade. I have used this method to true up some slabs of a varying thickness. A small thin saw blade works best. Just watch where you put your fingers. A thin fast blade will not cut you but hurts like hell if you push your fingers it in to the blade.
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