Post by Rockoonz on Sept 2, 2021 0:35:31 GMT -5
Adding a switch, that is.
My Highland Park (real, not Chinese) Trim saw Model E, built in the 40's or 50's, hasn't had a switch since I pulled it out of a blackberry patch and rebuilt it.
The workstation I used had it's own switch built in so I just ran a cord. The shop space we're finishing up won't have that, so time to add a switch.
I have mixed feelings on switch locations. For years I routed wires every concievable way to have the switch in front and convenient, but that puts it near spraying or dripping water, plus wires and switch box always in the way for maintenance and repair. So it's switch on the motor.
About $10 in parts and 30 minutes or so. I had to use the elbow because the oiler holes needed to remain facing up.
I prefer to mount straight up for a few inches closer to the operator, like my belt sander.
I also like these little wiring cover bubbles, but not all motors are the same plus not much room for wires.
Hope this offers an idea or two.
My Highland Park (real, not Chinese) Trim saw Model E, built in the 40's or 50's, hasn't had a switch since I pulled it out of a blackberry patch and rebuilt it.
The workstation I used had it's own switch built in so I just ran a cord. The shop space we're finishing up won't have that, so time to add a switch.
I have mixed feelings on switch locations. For years I routed wires every concievable way to have the switch in front and convenient, but that puts it near spraying or dripping water, plus wires and switch box always in the way for maintenance and repair. So it's switch on the motor.
About $10 in parts and 30 minutes or so. I had to use the elbow because the oiler holes needed to remain facing up.
I prefer to mount straight up for a few inches closer to the operator, like my belt sander.
I also like these little wiring cover bubbles, but not all motors are the same plus not much room for wires.
Hope this offers an idea or two.
