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Post by miket on Oct 5, 2021 14:35:43 GMT -5
Putting this one up on the site, can anyone tell me what this is, please? Thanks.
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Post by jasoninsd on Oct 5, 2021 18:11:25 GMT -5
Wait for someone else to chime in...but it looks like Botswana Agate to me.
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Post by hummingbirdstones on Oct 5, 2021 21:12:23 GMT -5
Wait for someone else to chime in...but it looks like Botswana Agate to me. Looks like a Bot to me, too, but what do I know?  |
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Post by jasoninsd on Oct 5, 2021 21:43:36 GMT -5
Wait for someone else to chime in...but it looks like Botswana Agate to me. Looks like a Bot to me, too, but what do I know? ...a HECK of a lot more than me! LOL |
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Post by hummingbirdstones on Oct 5, 2021 22:01:03 GMT -5
Looks like a Bot to me, too, but what do I know? ...a HECK of a lot more than me! LOL Don't sell yourself short, Jason. You've come a long way.  |
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Tommy
Administrator 
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,989
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Post by Tommy on Oct 5, 2021 22:09:43 GMT -5
miket, is it more purple in person than the photo is showing? I would lean towards Botswana as well ... but ... the colors are a bit muted for Bots and it's possible it could be something like Ghost agate. I really don't know. Ghost Agate: 
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Post by jasoninsd on Oct 5, 2021 22:12:33 GMT -5
...a HECK of a lot more than me! LOL Don't sell yourself short, Jason. You've come a long way. This should show my evolution pretty well...I'm not really all that close, but I'm starting to work on that last one! LOL  |
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Post by stephan on Oct 5, 2021 23:25:32 GMT -5
It’s wickedly cool, whatever it is. The banding reminds me of a Bot too.
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pizzano
Cave Dweller 
Member since February 2018
Posts: 1,390
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Post by pizzano on Oct 6, 2021 0:14:19 GMT -5
Putting this one up on the site, can anyone tell me what this is, please? Thanks.
Not for sure......but some of the Botswana I've tumbled looks real close....:  One of my favorites for sure....and one of the toughest to get right......yours is very nice. |
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Post by hummingbirdstones on Oct 6, 2021 9:20:01 GMT -5
I'm sticking with a Bot mostly because the puffy "cloud" fortifications are so even.
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Post by miket on Oct 6, 2021 9:31:12 GMT -5
Putting this one up on the site, can anyone tell me what this is, please? Thanks.
Not for sure......but some of the Botswana I've tumbled looks real close....: One of my favorites for sure....and one of the toughest to get right......yours is very nice. Thank you, sir! |
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Post by miket on Oct 6, 2021 9:32:55 GMT -5
Thanks, all! Botswana it is, then. Tommy, the stone is actually more grey. I think I'm going to redo the pictures. Maybe different lighting will show that better. |
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Post by miket on Oct 6, 2021 9:35:16 GMT -5
It’s wickedly cool, whatever it is. The banding reminds me of a Bot too. Thanks Stephan! |
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Post by miket on Oct 6, 2021 9:57:45 GMT -5
Here's a picture with a white background. Funny how the black background washes the color out...  |
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Post by Starguy on Oct 6, 2021 11:58:09 GMT -5
Looks like Botswana agate miket nice wrap! |
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Post by miket on Oct 6, 2021 12:20:42 GMT -5
Looks like Botswana agate miket nice wrap! Thank you, Brent! |
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pizzano
Cave Dweller
Member since February 2018
Posts: 1,390
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Post by pizzano on Oct 6, 2021 12:33:54 GMT -5
Maybe this will help a little........you may be aware of this anyway.....! I've found that under standard kitchen or shop lighting (40wcw florescent) nothing fancy, like that my Bot pic was shot, a soft absorbent material either white or dark grey (black) works best for a back drop.......the trick is to not use camera flash if at all possible with digital composition, at least on shiny (well polished) stones. It will work on other light sources as well, if the light source intensity is not to concentrated or extreme. This is just a basic "rule of thumb".....mainly applies to stones laid against (placed upon) the backdrop........it can get more complicated when macro or high magnifications are involved.........still learning that aspect. Dark, opaque subjects = white background Light, colorful translucent subjects = dark background, unless the intent is to accentuate the stones translucent qualities. Then the backdrop must be at a distance from the subject, choice of dark or light background will depend on what makes the stone appear realistic to your naked eye. In many cases, the key is whether or not the stone is opaque or translucent.......a reflection/refraction issue once the light either bounces off or penetrates the subject surface. Hope this helps a little, I've discovered, thru much conversation with a few here at RTH related to their fantastic stone photo representations, trial, error, using various digital cameras, lighting and backdrops, the basic "rule of thumb" is a common practice used among all those I enquired......and quite a few "photoshop" a little. As you know, starting with a sound, proven, basic remedy first, helps with overcoming the frustrations of future experiments...... |
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Post by miket on Oct 6, 2021 14:24:17 GMT -5
Maybe this will help a little........you may be aware of this anyway.....! I've found that under standard kitchen or shop lighting (40wcw florescent) nothing fancy, like that my Bot pic was shot, a soft absorbent material either white or dark grey (black) works best for a back drop.......the trick is to not use camera flash if at all possible with digital composition, at least on shiny (well polished) stones. It will work on other light sources as well, if the light source intensity is not to concentrated or extreme. This is just a basic "rule of thumb".....mainly applies to stones laid against (placed upon) the backdrop........it can get more complicated when macro or high magnifications are involved.........still learning that aspect. Dark, opaque subjects = white background Light, colorful translucent subjects = dark background, unless the intent is to accentuate the stones translucent qualities. Then the backdrop must be at a distance from the subject, choice of dark or light background will depend on what makes the stone appear realistic to your naked eye. In many cases, the key is whether or not the stone is opaque or translucent.......a reflection/refraction issue once the light either bounces off or penetrates the subject surface. Hope this helps a little, I've discovered, thru much conversation with a few here at RTH related to their fantastic stone photo representations, trial, error, using various digital cameras, lighting and backdrops, the basic "rule of thumb" is a common practice used among all those I enquired......and quite a few "photoshop" a little. As you know, starting with a sound, proven, basic remedy first, helps with overcoming the frustrations of future experiments...... Thanks for writing that out, I appreciate it. I do want to get the most realistic representation of the colors of the stones, whether I'm showing them on here or putting them up for sale on my website- but it's not always easy to do. For instance, I noticed that in my first picture I can see myself in the bottom of the stone- and the color in my shirt changed the color of that part of the cab. |
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Post by rmf on Oct 6, 2021 15:48:03 GMT -5
Maybe this will help a little........you may be aware of this anyway.....! I've found that under standard kitchen or shop lighting (40wcw florescent) nothing fancy, like that my Bot pic was shot, a soft absorbent material either white or dark grey (black) works best for a back drop.......the trick is to not use camera flash if at all possible with digital composition, at least on shiny (well polished) stones. It will work on other light sources as well, if the light source intensity is not to concentrated or extreme. This is just a basic "rule of thumb".....mainly applies to stones laid against (placed upon) the backdrop........it can get more complicated when macro or high magnifications are involved.........still learning that aspect. Dark, opaque subjects = white background Light, colorful translucent subjects = dark background, unless the intent is to accentuate the stones translucent qualities. Then the backdrop must be at a distance from the subject, choice of dark or light background will depend on what makes the stone appear realistic to your naked eye. In many cases, the key is whether or not the stone is opaque or translucent.......a reflection/refraction issue once the light either bounces off or penetrates the subject surface. Hope this helps a little, I've discovered, thru much conversation with a few here at RTH related to their fantastic stone photo representations, trial, error, using various digital cameras, lighting and backdrops, the basic "rule of thumb" is a common practice used among all those I enquired......and quite a few "photoshop" a little. As you know, starting with a sound, proven, basic remedy first, helps with overcoming the frustrations of future experiments...... Don't know if it helped miket but I found it helpful. Thanks for the Info. |
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