T'was The Week Before Christmas...
Dec 25, 2021 13:33:41 GMT -5
hummingbirdstones, jasoninsd, and 1 more like this
Post by stephan on Dec 25, 2021 13:33:41 GMT -5
Although it's good to work the whole width of wheels, I like to keep at least one edge of all the wheels a little more aggressive (less worn), and I use it to grind / sand / polish the girdle. There is nothing particularly difficult about the girdle, it's just a little boring to work, so I like to get that part done as quickly as possible.
The working the whole width of the wheel thing is especially important with the Nova 280 and 600 wheels, since those are the ones that are most likely to wear out in the center while you've still got diamonds left on the edges. I haven't paid much attention to this with the 1200 and 3000, and they have a ton of life left. My original 280 and 600 still work, although there is no texture left on them at all. The Nova wheels last a long time.
As I think I told you before, I am less impressed with the longevity of the Galaxy wheels, which seem to be just "ok" for the high price. They don't leave deep scratches, which is nice, but a well broken in (but not worn out) Galaxy 80 is just too slow for my taste. Did you get a new 80 grit disc for your slant cabber? I liked your idea of using a fresh 80 grit disc on the slant cabber for the initial grind on hard agates before moving to your cabbing machine.
I get what you're saying about leaving a more "aggressive" spot...and the left side of the 80 is still staying aggressive.
I did get a brand new 80 grit for the slant cabber. It came a couple days after the Cabber arrived! LOL - So, it's still in the plastic. I'm not convinced I'm not going to shape more cabs on the slant cabber...but for now, I'm having fun trying to tweak certain techniques I'm slowing figuring out on the Cabbing machine. Some things are the same as the slant cabber...but other things are different due to the curvature of the wheels...
I assume you are familiar with this epic thread.
I know you weren't tagging me...but thanks for posting this! I hadn't seen it, but will surely give it a read!
That whole claim thing can, indeed, get a little confusing
I agree about the 80 galaxy. I used to really go through them and I hate when they slow down. I got a sintered 60 wheel. Smartest thing I've done. My 220 has lasted forever, but it is worn, too. I do most of my work on an 80 and just use 220 for scratches.
I also leave an edge for the girdle.
I've learned that I if I can use the 80 to get my shape as close to final as I can, then the 220 is only used for removing the 80 scratches. I have a different "technique" when on the 220. I use extremely light pressure and let the cab "roll" over the surface of the wheel...as opposed to creating "resistance" like I do on the 80. By creating the resistance, I'm removing material...by using the "roll" technique on the 220, it's "sanding" rather than "grinding". Right or wrong, it seems to be working fairly well.
Granted, this is for harder materials...otherwise, the 220 is used for removing material.
I also leave a hair width of material above my girdle line when on the 80...that way I can use the 220 to take the dome right down to the line. Or, I'll take the dome right to the girdle line and know I'm going to actually split the girdle line on the 220. The latter is my preferred method. I use a fine tip Sharpie to mark the girdle line, so my margin for error is pretty small...
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