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Post by rockjunquie on Dec 31, 2021 7:16:58 GMT -5
I see it talked about a lot, so I assume most people draw their girdle line on before cabbing. I don't, do you?
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rads
spending too much on rocks
Making clay each day!
Member since April 2018
Posts: 319
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Post by rads on Dec 31, 2021 8:54:07 GMT -5
Sometimes. I would guess it is somewhere around 70 percent require an exact gridle for the finished piece.
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Post by knave on Dec 31, 2021 11:15:19 GMT -5
Tela for some reason I have been thinking about this. I recall you saying you use the eyeball instead of drawing a line, at first I was amazed, but obviously your cabs are excellent.
I used to be a diehard “hard liner” with girdles, and I still prefer the straight ones but some artistic license is acceptable imo. For example on the heart shapes I’m going to start letting the girdle get thicker over the cleft to allow for an even dome across the top of the heart. Not much, just a bit.
Just some random New Years thoughts I guess.
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Post by opalpyrexia on Dec 31, 2021 11:56:39 GMT -5
No. No girdles, per se. Here's a quick drawing of a typical profile for my cabs. It's what I like to bezel-set in my jewelry, and it gives my cab customers flexibility for bezel heights.
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Post by knave on Dec 31, 2021 12:15:37 GMT -5
I wonder what % of sold cabs get set into jewelry
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Post by perkins17 on Dec 31, 2021 12:57:30 GMT -5
I don't. When I do draw, it makes it harder for me to get a straight line. Man I miss cabbing! Stupid winter!
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Post by stardiamond on Dec 31, 2021 13:36:46 GMT -5
Almost always. Set the cab on a metal template, a pencil flat on the table and rotate the cab against the pencil. The pencil marks stay. Drawing a preform with pencil, frequently the marks disappear. I was unhappy with my girdle lines and developed a technique that works for me. When I grind the edges, they are flared out where the line meets the face. After getting the dome right, I rotate the top edge of the girdle at 90 degrees to the wheel. Girdles are very even and not wavy.
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Post by miket on Dec 31, 2021 14:40:34 GMT -5
I don't, but maybe I should... 😁
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Post by hummingbirdstones on Dec 31, 2021 22:50:44 GMT -5
I almost always do. Like I've said before, I don't have a very good eye. I need the visual to get a decent girdle. I don't when I'm cutting a cab like opalpyrexia cuts and high domes.
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adrian65
Cave Dweller
Arch to golden memories and to great friends.
Member since February 2007
Posts: 10,790
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Post by adrian65 on Jan 1, 2022 1:33:17 GMT -5
I draw a girdle line, but this line doesn't become a sharp edge on the cab. It only helps in keeping the same height all around the cab's margins. Also helps in shaping the dome (together with some other lines drawn on the face of the cab).
Adrian
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Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,989
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Post by Tommy on Jan 1, 2022 2:55:25 GMT -5
I have never drawn one.
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Post by rockjunquie on Jan 1, 2022 2:58:45 GMT -5
Me, either. I didn't learn to draw one.
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Post by jasoninsd on Jan 1, 2022 10:34:28 GMT -5
I seriously envy you folks who can get a good girdle without the line. I've tried it...the edge ends up looking like a cardiogram printout! LOL
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Jan 1, 2022 10:50:36 GMT -5
A line - or at least a few reference marks - can be useful if cutting replacement stones for existing jewelry.
If there's already a flat back on preforms for new jewelry I get distracted by looking at a line. Just holding the same height relative to the back edge all around keeps me focused on the point that's being ground away at any given moment. Leaving off the bevel on the back edge until after the girdle is cut helps.
If cutting chatoyant - or other "phenomena" stones - the back is typically cut last. That's why I didn't learn to use a line. No "back" to measure from!
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Post by Rockoonz on Jan 1, 2022 11:48:31 GMT -5
I draw a reference point line fairly often, maybe half the time. I use this adjustable thing from an aluminum rivet, a set bolt, and a piece of hard machinable plastic, can't remember where I originally saw it. This was a process pic for an alternative stone for a recent contest, marked for a double dome cab, unfortunately the focus sucks but it conveys the idea.
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Post by lpl on Jan 1, 2022 12:12:01 GMT -5
I’m in the always camp. It just seems to work for me.
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Jan 1, 2022 12:23:13 GMT -5
When I started cabbing I did draw a line because that's "what you do". As I progressed in my a abilities I stopped marking the girdle and now I just eyeball it.
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Post by holajonathan on Jan 1, 2022 23:01:36 GMT -5
No. I've tried, but I didn't find it helpful. If I'm going to accidentally over-grind the dome into the girdle, I do that whether or not I marked the girdle line.
If the girdle dips low in a spot, I bring in the edge a little to make the girdle line higher in that spot, and tweak the other side accordingly (when a symmetrical cab).
I don't decide where the girdle line is going to be until I am almost done grinding the dome. Although I try to keep a minimum girdle of around 2mm, I can't really predetermine the girdle height. The girdle line is determined by the dome height. And I don't know the exact dome height until I am half way done with the cab. Patterns change and flaws appear when grinding the dome. A higher or lower dome allows me to deal with unexpected surprises. I keep the dome even, and the girdle line takes care of itself. Dome height and shape are ultimately more important to me than having the girdle be a specific height. I care about girdle evenness, but I don't obsess over girdle height.
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brotherbill
spending too much on rocks
Member since October 2018
Posts: 388
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Post by brotherbill on Jan 2, 2022 6:19:47 GMT -5
I find a line helpful to maintain a pre-determined girdle height. I use standardized width bezel wire and find that tweaking the bezel height to match the stone is an extra step that is easily eliminated.
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Post by stephan on Jan 3, 2022 10:55:03 GMT -5
I don't. When I do draw, it makes it harder for me to get a straight line. Exactly
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