choochoorocks
starting to spend too much on rocks
Rock hounding
Member since April 2020
Posts: 176
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Post by choochoorocks on Jan 13, 2022 23:14:23 GMT -5
Hi,
My LS12 auto feed motor died recently. I found an old thread about this that suggested checking to see if the switch was the problem. I've checked it with a voltmeter and it is fine. What would my next step be to fix this?
I also searched for motors online and found only a Highland Park link that said out of stock. If I need a new motor, would that be my only option?
Thanks in advance!
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vwfence
has rocks in the head
Member since January 2013
Posts: 564
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Post by vwfence on Jan 14, 2022 12:46:37 GMT -5
Look at the motors for the augers for pellet stoves and also for BBQ grill rotterise s they come in different RPMs
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Post by rmf on Jan 14, 2022 20:52:05 GMT -5
Take your old motor to W.W.Grainger. Lortone got some from there.
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Post by oregon on Jan 14, 2022 22:13:38 GMT -5
Hi, My LS12 auto feed motor died recently. I found an old thread about this that suggested checking to see if the switch was the problem. I've checked it with a voltmeter and it is fine. What would my next step be to fix this? I also searched for motors online and found only a Highland Park link that said out of stock. If I need a new motor, would that be my only option? Thanks in advance! check voltage to the motor (or wire it direct) and check the resistance of the winding, shouldn't be zero (shorted) or infinity ( open). Most often the gear box is full of old hardened grease, clean it and relube.
There are other 3-5 rpm motor alternatives, just have to be creative to fit it inside the original switch box. If you're convinced the old one is dead and your going to toss it out, I'll send you a postage label and you can drop it in the post to me.
Good luck.
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Post by catmandewe on Jan 14, 2022 22:44:49 GMT -5
Most of those can be fixed. Its pretty easy to do. If you dont want to do it I will do it for you.
Tony
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choochoorocks
starting to spend too much on rocks
Rock hounding
Member since April 2020
Posts: 176
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Post by choochoorocks on Jan 17, 2022 14:19:20 GMT -5
Hi, My LS12 auto feed motor died recently. I found an old thread about this that suggested checking to see if the switch was the problem. I've checked it with a voltmeter and it is fine. What would my next step be to fix this? I also searched for motors online and found only a Highland Park link that said out of stock. If I need a new motor, would that be my only option? Thanks in advance! check voltage to the motor (or wire it direct) and check the resistance of the winding, shouldn't be zero (shorted) or infinity ( open). Most often the gear box is full of old hardened grease, clean it and relube.
There are other 3-5 rpm motor alternatives, just have to be creative to fit it inside the original switch box. If you're convinced the old one is dead and your going to toss it out, I'll send you a postage label and you can drop it in the post to me.
Good luck. I don't have experience with fixing motors... I checked the resistance at the two wires leading into the motor. Is that where I should check the resistance of the winding? It was neither 0 nor infinity. I think it was around 4 mega ohms.
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Post by oregon on Jan 17, 2022 14:52:40 GMT -5
check voltage to the motor (or wire it direct) and check the resistance of the winding, shouldn't be zero (shorted) or infinity ( open). Most often the gear box is full of old hardened grease, clean it and relube. There are other 3-5 rpm motor alternatives, just have to be creative to fit it inside the original switch box. If you're convinced the old one is dead and your going to toss it out, I'll send you a postage label and you can drop it in the post to me. Good luck. I don't have experience with fixing motors... I checked the resistance at the two wires leading into the motor. Is that where I should check the resistance of the winding? It was neither 0 nor infinity. I think it was around 4 mega ohms. 4 MegaOhms doesn't sound good, probably should be 10's of ohms, I have an LS-10 on the bench, here's it's motor, 30 ohms. always easier to make sure you're reading the right thing if an item is disconnected from the rest of the circuit, i.e. disconnect both wires (or in this case, at least one)
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choochoorocks
starting to spend too much on rocks
Rock hounding
Member since April 2020
Posts: 176
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Post by choochoorocks on Jan 22, 2022 0:51:28 GMT -5
I don't have experience with fixing motors... I checked the resistance at the two wires leading into the motor. Is that where I should check the resistance of the winding? It was neither 0 nor infinity. I think it was around 4 mega ohms. 4 MegaOhms doesn't sound good, probably should be 10's of ohms, I have an LS-10 on the bench, here's it's motor, 30 ohms. always easier to make sure you're reading the right thing if an item is disconnected from the rest of the circuit, i.e. disconnect both wires (or in this case, at least one)
Turns out that multimeter was broken. I had a working one lying around. With one wire disconnected, it now reads 46 ohms. Does that mean it's actually ok? I just reconnected it and turned on the switch after plugging the power back in. With the cover off, I can see that it's not turning.
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quartz
Cave Dweller
breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,352
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Post by quartz on Jan 23, 2022 22:24:40 GMT -5
Are you positive that you are getting power to the motor, some of the wiring quality in the picture looks a little nervous to me. A good cleaning and lubrication might get it up and running too.
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Post by Rockoonz on Jan 24, 2022 9:16:31 GMT -5
I agree with quartz that your connection at the spade terminal does not look robust. I would tighten that up, maybe remove the spade and use a wire nut, plus check the other one. Also, check for any side to side wiggle on the motor shaft, and see if you can push the motor in a counter clockwise direction easily with it off and unplugged, and the feed disengaged. If the bearing is loose either at the center (worn out) or the screws have become loose, the rotor could be dragging against the walls of the c frame when it's energized. If it doesn't want to turn with the power off it's more likely that something has happened in the gear reduction. I believe there is still a direct mount Dayton gearmotor that will fit, but don't remember where to find that info.
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vwfence
has rocks in the head
Member since January 2013
Posts: 564
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Post by vwfence on Jan 24, 2022 10:52:28 GMT -5
disconnect the motor and take an old cord and wire the motor direct and see if you get power that way . I have had 2 of those switch's go bad on different saws
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Post by oregon on Jan 25, 2022 12:00:04 GMT -5
disconnect the motor and take an old cord and wire the motor direct and see if you get power that way . I have had 2 of those switch's go bad on different saws Second this, if there's 120V to the motor and it's not turning, open up the gear box to have a look if hardened grease or a broken gear is keeping it from running.
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choochoorocks
starting to spend too much on rocks
Rock hounding
Member since April 2020
Posts: 176
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Post by choochoorocks on Jan 30, 2022 0:17:14 GMT -5
disconnect the motor and take an old cord and wire the motor direct and see if you get power that way . I have had 2 of those switch's go bad on different saws That was great advice. When connected directly the motor worked! I figured I had used the bad voltmeter when I checked the switch. So now I need to get a switch. Any recommendations?
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choochoorocks
starting to spend too much on rocks
Rock hounding
Member since April 2020
Posts: 176
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Post by choochoorocks on Jan 30, 2022 0:19:48 GMT -5
disconnect the motor and take an old cord and wire the motor direct and see if you get power that way . I have had 2 of those switch's go bad on different saws Second this, if there's 120V to the motor and it's not turning, open up the gear box to have a look if hardened grease or a broken gear is keeping it from running.
See my last post: I got it to work when wired directly. I also opened up the gear box and found it full of waxy gunk. I cleaned that stuff out as best I could. I hope that was the right thing to do, i.e., it's not needed as lubricant.
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Post by Rockoonz on Jan 30, 2022 14:37:43 GMT -5
Second this, if there's 120V to the motor and it's not turning, open up the gear box to have a look if hardened grease or a broken gear is keeping it from running. See my last post: I got it to work when wired directly. I also opened up the gear box and found it full of waxy gunk. I cleaned that stuff out as best I could. I hope that was the right thing to do, i.e., it's not needed as lubricant. Waxy gunk IS lubricant, don't run the gears dry. Not sure what type of grease is correct for this, but it definitely needs lubrication. The separate feed switch can be nice, but if you have to use it while cutting there is a saw, blade or rock issue, no other saws have one to my knowledge. You could probably use a wire nut and bypass it and be fine. You are not likely to find that flat lortone toggle if you decide to replace, a regular single pole toggle will be fine, just plug the square (?) hole and drill a round one to mount a switch, if you choose to replace. I got a box of 5 off Amazon recently at 15A rating, fine up to 1HP motor.
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vwfence
has rocks in the head
Member since January 2013
Posts: 564
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Post by vwfence on Jan 31, 2022 8:37:44 GMT -5
I use a 20 amp toggle switch from Lowes and use some fine wire to wrap on the end and make a hook as i dont have a drill press and vice to drill it out . you can also try grainger . My saw has 2 outlets and i have taken the second switch out and used it also so i could keep cutting
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Post by Rockoonz on Jan 31, 2022 9:17:48 GMT -5
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vwfence
has rocks in the head
Member since January 2013
Posts: 564
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Post by vwfence on Jan 31, 2022 9:24:32 GMT -5
there are switch's used in stock cars to turn the power on and to run fans ect that have a long end on them for the driver with his gloves on but i didnt have one handy . Speedway Motors for one has them and im sure others do also
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Post by Rockoonz on Jan 31, 2022 10:41:15 GMT -5
there are switch's used in stock cars to turn the power on and to run fans ect that have a long end on them for the driver with his gloves on but i didnt have one handy . Speedway Motors for one has them and im sure others do also I have used a lot of the bat handled switches for electric fans and overdrives in the old euro cars that I used to restore and upgrade, never paid much attention to the amperage because everything went through sugarcube relays instead of running the load through the switch, which usually just grounded a relay and engaged a latching circuit with limit switches and/or double throw momentary switches. I want to play with it for the 1HP and up motors on saws, but already too many projects. I have a box somewhere with old mercury relays and some newer solid state from industrial motor starters and whatnot.
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vwfence
has rocks in the head
Member since January 2013
Posts: 564
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Post by vwfence on Jan 31, 2022 10:52:19 GMT -5
I think it might be dangerous for us to meet Rockoonz . LOL
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