chassroc
Cave Dweller 
Rocks are abundant when you have rocktumblinghobby pals
Member since January 2005
Posts: 3,586
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Post by chassroc on Dec 4, 2005 13:36:39 GMT -5
Cher,
I get this every once in a while. My only remedy is to remove the foam with embedded grit and discard; add several tablespoons of coarse grit slurry(saved from prior batches) and tumble. If I'm correct, the prevention is to start with some left over slurry(from non foamy batches)
I'm sure it is an embedded detergent agent in the rock!
csroc
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Post by connrock on Dec 4, 2005 17:04:17 GMT -5
If you have always used this recipe and had good luck with it there are a few things that will cause this problem.
Overloaded barrel.
Not a mixed size load. (Very Important)1/3 of the load should be 1/2" ,,,,,,,,,especially in small barrels
Barrel turning too slow,,,, Caused by:
Belt slipping
Overloaded barrel
Dry bearings
Oil on rollers and or barrel
Pulley slipping on motor shaft and or roller shaft
Now after all that technical stuff,,,,,,,,
If I had to venture a guess just by looking at your photo's I would say you have too much water in the load.
Been there
Done that!!
Good luck,,,,,,,, ;D
Tom
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stefan
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,113
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Post by stefan on Dec 5, 2005 15:39:31 GMT -5
Cher- first thought was short on water- Second thought was a wedge effect- Couple of rocks jam angaint each other stopping the tumbling action completely (course you shack up the barrels so that should not happen) Only other thing I could think od is some "foamy" problem- TOO much foam- stopping the tumble (borax should fix that) Where did you get the grit from?
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Post by sandsman1 on Dec 5, 2005 18:19:14 GMT -5
the only time this has happend to me is when i had too many and too big of pieces in a barrel it seamed like they got wedged in there and didnt move freely enuff to keep things stired up and grinding on each other--- also it only ever happend with 1-1/2 lb and 3-lb barrels so im thinkin it was lack of movement for one reason or another in a small barrel
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,504
Member is Online
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Post by Sabre52 on Dec 5, 2005 18:27:51 GMT -5
I've had that happen and I just close the tumbler back up and run it longer with the same grit. Takes longer to break down sometimes but that just seems to save me grit and eventually it works out and cuts down the rocks OK....Mel
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Post by puppie96 on Dec 6, 2005 3:00:38 GMT -5
Now & then mine do this. Just recently one has. I take my rubber gloved hand and scoop off the foamy stuff and put into a plastic container till I get down to the surface. If it is really watery looking and there seems to be a lot of water up to the level of the rocks I pour some off into the same container. Meanwhile I've got another plastic container I've been using for the same purpose as well as quick rinses of rocks I'm peeking at. It dries out and leave a combo of powder and grit which I now use for slurry thickener. If it is still somewhat wet it is even easier to toss the thick mud in. Then give it a few more days. It will work. If rock level is much lower than when I started throw in a few more small ones. Small is better than big for speeding up the process.
Variations of this happen often enough that I try to make a point of opening barrels and checking within the first 2-3 days and get rid of extra water, rather than find out the bad news at the end of 6 or 7 days. But when I've found it late in the cycle, I do the same thing and let it run a few more days, by then the grit will have broken down.
I use no additives (borax, etc.) during any grinding cycles, only for cleanup.
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Post by puppie96 on Dec 6, 2005 3:07:09 GMT -5
A couple more things: I agree with Sabre, basically I'm just running it longer to give it time to break down, but I'm doing a couple of things that I believe speed up the process.
When I throw the foam into the plastic container and let it dry up, I reuse the dried up stuff. It doesn't cause foam or anything.
Xena, the coarser grits sink too quickly therefore not clinging to the rock or effectively getting in between, this is basically the same thing that is happening in the 60/90 problem barrels only it is even worse with 46/70. I also tried it early on. Best luck with it was to use part 46/70 and part 60/90.
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stefan
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,113
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Post by stefan on Dec 6, 2005 10:56:52 GMT -5
Well said Puppie- I have started letting my course recharges go for 2 weeks- By then there ain't nothing left grit wise.
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gemmaster
spending too much on rocks
Member since July 2005
Posts: 281
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Post by gemmaster on Dec 6, 2005 11:30:42 GMT -5
one would expect a creator goddess to have the answer even without the envelope, since i am just a humble gemmaster i will offer this comment try a teaspoon or 2 of baking soda the appearane of the slurry screams gas problem, acid or compound in the rock will froth like this the bicarbonate of soda will fix the problem. silicon carbide is an inert non reactive compound it cannot be bad the only variables left are 1 the rocks 2 the water my call 1 the rocks . best wishes to her goddeship . a humble beyondonian . gemmaster
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Post by Cher on Dec 6, 2005 11:49:42 GMT -5
Oh no Gemmaster *smile* I am a humble goddess who plainly admits I do not have all the answers. If the borax doesn't work, I'll try that.
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Post by connrock on Dec 6, 2005 19:21:10 GMT -5
I read that some of you have had probs running coarser grits.
I ran #30 with great success but found I had to use MUCH less water for the first 3 days or so then add more water and things went very well.
The only reason I stopped using #30 grit is because Miles Supply doesn't sell it so I went to a finer grit.
Tom
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Post by LCARS on Dec 7, 2005 3:17:53 GMT -5
Hard water "COULD" cause foaming...
I usually use Britta filtered water even though the tap water here is pretty soft as is.
Since S.C. is a manmade substance, it stands to reason that process variables can & inevitably DO exist in it's manufacture. The quality control standards of the manufacturer will in a significant way, determine the quality of the product & it's effectiveness in it's intended function as a cutting abrasive.
Loosely formed crystal matrices of S.C. will fracture & degrade faster that those formed more slowly, which would tend to be more cohesive & wear slower.
If you see that the grit isn't breaking down after a long time then maybe it just isn't cutting the rock if the individual grains are less crystaline & more amorphous.
I have seen carborundum with very regular faceting & I have seen globular Carborundum as well & the faceted stuff will cut your fingers up real nicely if you're not cereful where-as teh globular carborundum will just break apart in your hand without cutting you.
I agree it IS possible to get "bad" grit but I also agree that other variables & process parameters can & often do play a role in the end result.
I fretted over the alox polish that comes in the newer Lortone kits since I only changed that variable & immediately my results went poo poo on me.
Now that I have changed to C.O. from another manufacturer I have had good results but now it just takes longer to shine my rocks.
Whenever you switch from one product to another there is bound to be some adjustment period.
If the decrease in the quality of your expected result outweighs any savings you thought you were getting then it's time to consider the cost:performance ratio & decide if you are costing yourself more in the end...
Just my 2 cents again anyway...
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