RockingRuralMo
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since July 2022
Posts: 138
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Post by RockingRuralMo on Jul 19, 2022 12:52:57 GMT -5
Hello All!
it's my first post here. I hope I do everything right.
I bought my first slab saw, a welded-together 16 inch enclosed oil-cooled beast, earlier this week. It needed a rehab so I pulled the bearings, pulleys, etc., and am replacing them. The blade is pretty far gone, and changing it is going to be a pretty major undertaking, so I want to change it now while I have the machine apart. There are no local stores where I can just walk in and get something off of the shelf, so I have to order online. As a classic overthinker, naturally I've read enough to thoroughly confuse myself. So now I'm turning to experts with actual real-world experience for some practical guidance. What blades do you recommend?
I mess with mostly agates, jaspers, petrified wood - you know - cheap stuff I can forgive myself for messing up.
I have seen that people really love the 301 and 303 blades. The 303 seems to only come in segmented for a 16 inch. Is that a concern? Am I better off with a sintered continuous rim and slow cuts?
I had hoped to get a new blade for under $200, but not seeing 301 or 303 in that range for the size I need. Are there other blades that are suitable? Or do I just need to bite the bullet on this one?
Thanks in advance to everyone!
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Post by vegasjames on Jul 19, 2022 18:19:34 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 19, 2022 18:24:27 GMT -5
Congrats on a slab saw acquisition. Homemade is sometimes best. I'd go for the middle of the road on the first saw blade. The 303 is definitely to tougher blade than the 301. And its best to learn your vice characteristics and clamping before you go for the best blade. My fav is a an MK 225 which is a porcelein blade but maybe not available. Supposedly MK 205 Agate Kutter is comparable but it looks like its not available above 14". Note that you can use a smaller blade like a 14 in your saw, but you will just have to raise the oil level (and tolerate a little less cutting reach). Pay attention to your arbor size. Not all blades will fit on a large arbor, and you having a homemade version may have a super fortified arbor shaft. Don't be afraid of the segmented design of the larger blades. I think its meant to carry more oil to the cutting surface and an advantage. Notice it usually is not available in smaller sizes except some tile and procelein blades where heat is expected. Shop diligently for your blade and don't be afraid to ask questions, but do be prepared to filter the answers you get. Blades are like motor oil, baseball teams, and religions. Everyone has the only right answer. Welcome and good luck on firing up the saw. BTW you can do a trial run with water just to see how everything is working.
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Post by stardiamond on Jul 19, 2022 20:19:14 GMT -5
Peruano, why do you say the 303 is tougher than a 301?
I agree that a 14 is better than a 16; less expensive and a smaller kerf even though it can't cut as large a rock. My saw came with a 16 and replaced it with a 14.
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stefan
Cave Dweller 
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,113
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Post by stefan on Jul 22, 2022 12:11:50 GMT -5
I have a Highland Park Green line Agate eater. THick blade but very nice "beginner: blade. I have well over 500 cuts so far and the paint is just now starting to wear away. They are about $130 for the 16"
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Post by catmandewe on Jul 22, 2022 20:37:47 GMT -5
The 301 is developed for harder material and has 25% more diamond than the 303.
If this is your first saw I would buy a cheap chinese crimped rim blade to learn on, most of them are fairly good, they wont last as long but if you bend it you arent out so much cash.
Happy Cutting!!
Tony
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