Post by jamesp on Jul 22, 2022 10:59:41 GMT -5
The heart of this machine is the 16 inch 2:1 steel tankend available from Compco and a flanged-only cover.(FO, but a plate can be used.
The tank end is 1/8 inch thick and easily structurally strong enough to direct weld motor brackets, legs, fittings and bearings to.
This unit was really slapped together with scrap metal and scrap components.
It can be fed direct by a water hose or drip from the removable steel tank above.
This is the heart of the machine - a 16 inch 2:1 tank head available from Compco. Probably cost $25.
It is 1/8 inch thick and easy to weld all components to - legs, misc. steel plumbing fittings, motor/bearing bracketry, baffles, etc.
Boom, 3/16" steel plate direct welded to bowl to attach bearings. 3/4" NPT steel fitting welded flush for an offset drain.
A 1/2 inch shaft with purchased 5" sheave and 8" lapper plate.
A 3 inch sheave with a 1/2 inch clamping collar to serve as the lapper plate stop.(to be replaced with a larger 6 inch sheave)
Welded a couple of braces on to the bearing plate for rigidity.
Welded plate to hold motor along with a cross brace back to bearing plate.
Mounted shaft thru bearings to complete rotating assembly and 5 inch sheave to turn lapper plate.
Note 1/2 inch clamping collars mounted on shaft to rest against bearings to keep 1/2 inch shaft from shifting down.
Mounted 1725 rpm 1/4 hp junker motor with 3 inch sheave yielding 3/5 x 1725 = 1035 rpm.
Another view of the motor/bearing arrangement.
Added 3/4 inch water pipe legs.
Added fittings to snake drain water out and away.
Had to remove and replace motor-to-bearing brace due to interference with drain(sloppy).
Top view with cover sitting in chair upside down. 1/8 inch plate could be used instead of the 'flanged only' cover in photo.
Cover in place
Trashed 3 inch sheave and went with a 6 inch sheave for a lapper plate stop/rest for better support.
Started welding water management fittings in place. Making sure to keep threaded connections in place. This one for a garden house.
Rounded up a 1.5 gallon steel tank to use for a lift-away drip system with adjustable flow valve. Note handle is removable.
And that about completes the lapper with drip or garden hose feed. A rain roof was added over the motor so it could be left outside.
Added roll-around wheels. It is heavy but solid and quiet. It can handle fairly high water flows for grinding soft materials like glass that generate a lot of slurry. Enough space to access a dropped cab below the lapper plate. If pre-planned a welder could put it together in an hour without effort. It can be lugged down when say bearing down when grinding the face of a 2" x 6" slab, 1/4 hp does a good job for most jobs though. Nip points are fairly safe, fingers don't seem threatened. Neck ties a bad idea.
The tank end is 1/8 inch thick and easily structurally strong enough to direct weld motor brackets, legs, fittings and bearings to.
This unit was really slapped together with scrap metal and scrap components.
It can be fed direct by a water hose or drip from the removable steel tank above.
This is the heart of the machine - a 16 inch 2:1 tank head available from Compco. Probably cost $25.
It is 1/8 inch thick and easy to weld all components to - legs, misc. steel plumbing fittings, motor/bearing bracketry, baffles, etc.
Boom, 3/16" steel plate direct welded to bowl to attach bearings. 3/4" NPT steel fitting welded flush for an offset drain.
A 1/2 inch shaft with purchased 5" sheave and 8" lapper plate.
A 3 inch sheave with a 1/2 inch clamping collar to serve as the lapper plate stop.(to be replaced with a larger 6 inch sheave)
Welded a couple of braces on to the bearing plate for rigidity.
Welded plate to hold motor along with a cross brace back to bearing plate.
Mounted shaft thru bearings to complete rotating assembly and 5 inch sheave to turn lapper plate.
Note 1/2 inch clamping collars mounted on shaft to rest against bearings to keep 1/2 inch shaft from shifting down.
Mounted 1725 rpm 1/4 hp junker motor with 3 inch sheave yielding 3/5 x 1725 = 1035 rpm.
Another view of the motor/bearing arrangement.
Added 3/4 inch water pipe legs.
Added fittings to snake drain water out and away.
Had to remove and replace motor-to-bearing brace due to interference with drain(sloppy).
Top view with cover sitting in chair upside down. 1/8 inch plate could be used instead of the 'flanged only' cover in photo.
Cover in place
Trashed 3 inch sheave and went with a 6 inch sheave for a lapper plate stop/rest for better support.
Started welding water management fittings in place. Making sure to keep threaded connections in place. This one for a garden house.
Rounded up a 1.5 gallon steel tank to use for a lift-away drip system with adjustable flow valve. Note handle is removable.
And that about completes the lapper with drip or garden hose feed. A rain roof was added over the motor so it could be left outside.
Added roll-around wheels. It is heavy but solid and quiet. It can handle fairly high water flows for grinding soft materials like glass that generate a lot of slurry. Enough space to access a dropped cab below the lapper plate. If pre-planned a welder could put it together in an hour without effort. It can be lugged down when say bearing down when grinding the face of a 2" x 6" slab, 1/4 hp does a good job for most jobs though. Nip points are fairly safe, fingers don't seem threatened. Neck ties a bad idea.
