rockbrain
Cave Dweller 
Member since January 2022
Posts: 3,179
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Post by rockbrain on Aug 10, 2022 18:53:27 GMT -5
I've recently acquired a lot of nice looking material except lots of fractures in it. There weren't very many places I could start cutting on a slab like this without an issue.
Forgot some nice looking ribbon. Amethyst that also has fractures all over in it. I just cut and ground these two cabs. I don't think they would have stayed together without the stabilization.
I cut a cab out of the first slab also but it's a possibility for the competition so I won't show it here.
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Post by jasoninsd on Aug 11, 2022 19:01:50 GMT -5
I have a growing pile of material that I won't cab unless it's been stabilized...but I haven't found the time yet to figure out the whole stabilization process. I know there's several threads about it (I've glanced through most), but one of these days I'll start figuring it all out. Congrats on getting going with stabilizing!  |
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hoolligan1938
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2022
Posts: 253
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Post by hoolligan1938 on Aug 12, 2022 10:12:02 GMT -5
I too, am wondering if just about all the rocks need to be stabilized. I know that's a broad statement, but so many rocks seem to have fractures or gas pit holes in them. I started stabilizing using the method of epoxy and acetone in a jar from a formula seen here on RTH. Rockbrains original question was about using "art resin" to stabilize. I'd like to know the answer to that also. If it's better than the regular epoxy method someone let us know. It seems to me that it might be more water resistant when cured. Hope somebody can let us know and share their results with us.
Jim
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Post by hummingbirdstones on Aug 12, 2022 10:23:06 GMT -5
I too, am wondering if just about all the rocks need to be stabilized. I know that's a broad statement, but so many rocks seem to have fractures or gas pit holes in them. I started stabilizing using the method of epoxy and acetone in a jar from a formula seen here on RTH. Rockbrains original question was about using "art resin" to stabilize. I'd like to know the answer to that also. If it's better than the regular epoxy method someone let us know. It seems to me that it might be more water resistant when cured. Hope somebody can let us know and share their results with us. Jim See the thread Stabilizing Breakthrough by fencejumper for more information about using Art Resin to stabilize. |
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Post by liveoak on Aug 12, 2022 10:35:59 GMT -5
I recently tried stabilizing a couple of pre-forms before cabbing with thinned epoxy.
I had some optically clear stuff here from another project, so I thinned it a little with acetone. Thinned to not more than 10% in volume.
First I put the pre-forms on a heating tray I had, but I'm sure you could put them in a toaster oven on low instead.
I left them to heat up for maybe 1/2 hour - just the time it took me to get myself organized & the epoxy mixed.
Then once the epoxy was mixed I kept stirring it until the epoxy started to warm up, then I added the acetone.
You have to add the acetone AFTER the epoxy starts reacting, it you do it before that point, the epoxy won't cure properly.
Then I put the heated pre-forms in a silicone mold that I had and poured the epoxy on top and around them, I used an acid brush to make sure I got it all covered & then let them soak in the pool of epoxy. I didn't make it so deep to be annoying to get the stones out :-)
Then I just left it- let the epoxy cure by it cooling down naturally .
As the stone cools it will tend to draw the epoxy into it's pores.
I left it alone overnight- then put it under a light bulb for 24-48 hours to be sure it was cured.
I was able to cab some soft charolite and still have it hold together.
My husband has extensive experience with epoxy, from many years use, in boat building, so I followed his directions.
Seemed to work.
Patty
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Post by rockjunquie on Aug 12, 2022 11:02:16 GMT -5
I got a vacuum pot and intend to use art resin with it- though I have yet to do so. Paul fencejumper prefers it after all the MHP he does- that's good enough for me. But for porous/soft rock I might just use cactus juice. I think I have some phosphosiderite to try that on. |
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realrockhound
Cave Dweller
Chucking leaverite at tweekers
Member since June 2020
Posts: 4,501
Member is Online
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Post by realrockhound on Aug 12, 2022 11:42:53 GMT -5
Epoxy 330 (glue and hardener) in a jar of acetone. Let stone sit for one week. Take out, let dry for one week. Cab
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fencejumper
Cave Dweller
Member since May 2021
Posts: 441
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Post by fencejumper on Aug 12, 2022 12:54:23 GMT -5
Art resin-fracture seal
Cactus juice-stabilize
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rockbrain
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2022
Posts: 3,179
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Post by rockbrain on Aug 13, 2022 13:37:03 GMT -5
That makes sense. So far I've been using the art resin for hard material with fractures. I'm using the technique I got from Paul's @fencejumpers post from last year. "stabilizing breakthrough" I picked up a small toaster oven for $6. I preheat the slabs at 200 degrees. I mix the Art Resin in a disposable plastic container sitting in a dish of hot water. I've even heated the whole thing in the microwave for a few seconds after mixing. It doesn't take too much resin. I can do one side of 3-4 smaller slabs, maybe 3"x4" with about 1/2 tsp. I use a 1/4 tsp stainless steel measuring spoon. Cleanup is easy. Once everything is mixed and warm I squeegee it on the slab with an old credit card/motel room key/etc. Bake at 200 for 2 hours. Flip and repeat.
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Post by rockjunquie on Aug 15, 2022 16:02:39 GMT -5
That makes sense. So far I've been using the art resin for hard material with fractures. I'm using the technique I got from Paul's @fencejumpers post from last year. "stabilizing breakthrough" I picked up a small toaster oven for $6. I preheat the slabs at 200 degrees. I mix the Art Resin in a disposable plastic container sitting in a dish of hot water. I've even heated the whole thing in the microwave for a few seconds after mixing. It doesn't take too much resin. I can do one side of 3-4 smaller slabs, maybe 3"x4" with about 1/2 tsp. I use a 1/4 tsp stainless steel measuring spoon. Cleanup is easy. Once everything is mixed and warm I squeegee it on the slab with an old credit card/motel room key/etc. Bake at 200 for 2 hours. Flip and repeat.
I don't know if this is helpful or not, but most toaster ovens are way off on temp. I saw a video where the guy says to jack it up about 50 degrees. We use ours all the time and always adjust higher. But, if it's working for you - then you have a good oven. |
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