rockbrain
Cave Dweller 
Member since January 2022
Posts: 3,179
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Post by rockbrain on Aug 10, 2022 18:55:50 GMT -5
When sanding and polishing the domes of cabs on soft wheels, should I be pressing hard enough to actually push in the rubber so it kind of conforms around the dome or should I be using a lighter touch?
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Post by hummingbirdstones on Aug 10, 2022 19:04:04 GMT -5
When sanding and polishing the domes of cabs on soft wheels, should I be pressing hard enough to actually push in the rubber so it kind of conforms around the dome or should I be using a lighter touch? Depends on what type of stone you're working on and if the wheels are new or not. You want to make sure to break in the wheels with a good hard agate to knock the uneven diamonds off the wheels. If you're working on a softer stone, I usually back off on the pressure when I'm cabbing. I never really push any stone in hard on the wheels, but agates and jaspers can usually take a little more pressure. |
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Post by stardiamond on Aug 10, 2022 19:05:05 GMT -5
What I have learned is using the right wheel for the job. Don't use a 600 soft to do the job of a 280. Don't use a 280 soft to the job of an 80 hard. Most people who start out are afraid of the 80 grit wheel. They try to shape with the 280 because they feel like they have more control and quickly wear the 280. Unless a wheel is worn, I don't press down. On a hard material gem Owyhee, when there scratches it is better to go back to a coarser grit to get rid of them.
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Post by vegasjames on Aug 10, 2022 19:17:06 GMT -5
I have heard different things about this. On a site for a cabbing machine manufacturer they say to use pressure pushing the stone in to the wheel. What they teach at our club is to only apply pressure on the hard wheels, but a very light touch on the soft wheels.
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Post by rockjunquie on Aug 10, 2022 19:23:40 GMT -5
I believe they are expressly made with the foam layer so you can (and should) press enough that the wheels conform to the dome. But, I agree with Robin, there are several stones where you don't want to do that- the ones that orange peel.
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Post by stardiamond on Aug 10, 2022 19:25:35 GMT -5
I have two 80 grit wheels, an aggressive top 80 and a worn DP 80. I apply a lot of pressure to the aggressive and when it quits being aggressive, I replace it. I use light pressure on everything else. The aggressive 80 leaves scratches which I take out with the DP 80 and use it to fine tune the shape. All other wheels it is light pressure.
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rockbrain
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2022
Posts: 3,179
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Post by rockbrain on Aug 10, 2022 20:50:14 GMT -5
I believe they are expressly made with the foam layer so you can (and should) press enough that the wheels conform to the dome. But, I agree with Robin, there are several stones where you don't want to do that- the ones that orange peel. This is what I was wondering about. It just seems like it would be a lot more efficient pushing it into the foam a little. |
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Post by rockjunquie on Aug 10, 2022 20:52:14 GMT -5
I believe they are expressly made with the foam layer so you can (and should) press enough that the wheels conform to the dome. But, I agree with Robin, there are several stones where you don't want to do that- the ones that orange peel. This is what I was wondering about. It just seems like it would be a lot more efficient pushing it into the foam a little. I can't remember for sure, but that's what I recall reading from DP. Don't push so much that it slows the wheel down, but enough to indent the wheel a little. |
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Post by jasoninsd on Aug 11, 2022 18:50:07 GMT -5
I'm not saying it's the "right" way by any means...I'm just saying what I do. I use pretty decent amount of pressure on harder stones. As already stated, the softer material requires a pretty delicate amount of pressure - you know like you're holding a baby bird in your hand. When it comes to harder agates and jaspers, I use the same amount of pressure as if I hated birds! LOL - I'm also under the belief the amount of foam backing allows for...and calls for additional pressure. If the foam was thinner, then I wouldn't be adding the same amount of pressure. I will say I do decrease the amount of pressure when getting near the dome edge or any "curvature" - such as an inside swoop. With added pressure, the angle of the indent of the cab into the wheel changes...so you have to account for the different "curve" that is being created by the cab being pressed into the wheel.
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