Frequently having difficulty getting good pictures of cabs

I will be watching this thread, as I'm also struggling. I think my best pics have been sunlight pics in the NW. I now have a camera that is capable, but I just need to discover the setup that works.

Use the filters and after pic adjustments to get your values close to actual. I couldn't get my Gary Green Jasper to come out green, it looks blue. Adjusted the tint with the cab nearby until it matched up. I play with the most of the post pic adjustments on most of the shots I take except for the ones for the cab competition. The rules forbid the use of filters. Unfortunately if you're using a digital camera or phone your pictures are probably already heavily filtered and pre-adjusted unless you have all your settings on manual.
I think vanilla_gorilla is right on with the magnification factor. That plus viewing a fixed 2 dimensional photo is different than a 3d object with reflective surfaces and different focal distances. When I have trouble seeing something small I take a quick pic and look at it blown up on my phone.

Remember one thing first.......what you see is subject to what your eyes and brain translate as "the same as original".........not everyone translates color spectrums in the same fashion or in the same manner...........what you see and shoot will seldom be reproduced onto a website just like the original.......that's a fact...!

Sticking with the KISS mentality for years now.....

Lighting is key, regardless of the equipment used........yes, of course the better the equipment the better chance at "real" close reproduction........but, even cell phone cameras have come a long way in the digital reproduction world, and those that maintain the four most important factors.....the better.

Pixel Size
Signal to Noise Ratio (SNR)
Lens aperture
Sensitivity 

The higher number of pixel amounts and size the better
The lower rate/ratio of SNR the better
The size of aperture flexibility the better
The more adjustable sensitivity rates the better

This would hold true for any digital point and shoot or DSLR.

Personally, I don't use filters other than UV reflection screens (lens), I don't "photo shop", just crop.......and I'm moderately color blind red/green, so I compensate by using my cameras/phones white balance aspects and photo everything RAW.........nothing can beat comparing your photos to actual sunlight lit subjects. But, like many who shoot their subjects (talking rocks, jewelry, coins, knives, guns, ect.) under artificial lighting, back drops and tents, work great.........the tent Tela just got is a very good option for smaller subjects.........landscapes, scenic, portrait and out door action/indoor action shooing is all together a different camera animal......but those 4 principals stated above apply as well............the best advice anyone can provide is to purchase the proper tool for the application, study that tools functions and "learn" what that tool provides/performs best........then memorize and apply...........take as many shots as needed......it's digital, trash is expendable.......lol 

First picture was taken yesterday with an ott lite. The other 3 were taken this morning using natural light and vertical blinds partially closed which was better than fully open.



The camera shows a big vug that really doesn't exist, the contrast is not as good as actual. Photoshop basic does not improve anything. I upgraded my camera from an Olympus Pen to an Olympus EM1 Mark 3. Color accuracy is not a problem so I don't have to play with backgrounds. Most of my cabs are jaspers and the picture are acceptable. I can get good pictures of agates like Montana. This Tahoma is a jasper/agate and I've taken about 100 sucky pictures of it.

I think I have it figured out. The camera needs to be further from the object.

I've photographed this cab for more than 5 years and this picture is representative. Only cropped.

"I think Gary opalpyrexia nailed it. The single most important thing you need to watch is the white balance. You should set it for whichever light source you are using. Alternatively, you can do it real quick with an editing program. I prefer PS Elements. It's made for working with pictures. It's super easy to correct the white balance. I spend less than 30 seconds to edit a picture. I crop, I adjust white balance and tweak the brightness.
Adjusting the white balance on your camera just requires looking it up in the manual. They are all different".


I mentioned this as well........ "I'm moderately color blind red/green, so I compensate by using my cameras/phones white balance aspects and photo everything RAW."

Not enough folks consider simple adjustments when they have something in their hand that takes a college degree to translate..........almost all digital format cameras/phones have, inherently built within the tech, simple/stupid easy work arounds to all of even advanced basic perimeters......that's because "basic" has expanded it's world.

I read this after I purchased the Nikon D7000.....it helped a lot......and moved me in the correct direction for more simple considerations..........:

imaging.nikon.com/lineup/dslr/basics/17/index.htm

It don't have to be a Nikon to appreciate the white balance features..........it applies to all decent quality digital photo equipment.

Just Because.........