ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 15, 2016 20:28:38 GMT -5
They don't make Sealmaster bearings anymore and they last waaaay longer than the new imported ones. They still make and sell Sealmaster. Sealmaster is a model name used by the manufacturer named Regal. link
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 15, 2016 19:35:05 GMT -5
Looks like he used UHMW polyethylene blocks to mount the bearings on and raise them up. Is that what that is? Nice touch. Also really like the flexible coolant supply. Those snap together gems are a bit pricey for my hubbies bargain basement build but they look great on yours. Cool thing is they make all kinds of nozzle pieces, although, to get the most out of the fan shaped ones you need more flow than would normally be required for cabbing and it might be a mess. Hubby wonders if ronm has built machines for a living.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 15, 2016 14:36:00 GMT -5
Hubby worked at a place that made machines that used water jets to cut through glass. The machines for that are around $500,000 on up. (But these were CNC controlled with big water tanks and centering devices, xyz axis cutting head moves and sensors and conveyors and stuff attached.) I believe this one also operates at 60,000 lbs.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 15, 2016 12:42:17 GMT -5
Just two more questions. What is the advantage (if there is any) of using nickel coated diamond grit as opposed to just plain diamond grit? Is there anything special I need to do when re surfacing really low grits (ie. 35-100 grit). Use extra epoxy? Use several thin coats? Use more grit? Less grit? Does anyone re do 35 grit wheels? Any knowledge passed this way will be a touchdown. I am using epoxy 220 and plan on using ten carats (two grams) of grit mixed in for a 6" x 1 1/2" wheel. 10 CTS on a wheel that has much less than half the surface area of an 8" expando may be too much. I tried 15 CTS on an 8" expando & then tried just 10 CTS the next time. I think it grinds better with less. Lynn Cut my amount down by half maybe??? (Which would be great news to me seeing as how then my grit would do twice the wheels.)
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 15, 2016 12:40:14 GMT -5
I would guess the nickle plated diamond is used for electroplating diamond tools. Wow, I never would have thought of that. Sounds entirely plausible. So, using diamond grit coated with it would offer no benefit when using it with epoxy it would seem, and there is probably no need to specify using nickel coated when re surfacing wheels this way.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 15, 2016 12:01:29 GMT -5
Fantastic! Are the struts u used for frame stainless as well? The way you covered your bearings was genius, I forgot to mention. Simple and quick. Those Unistruts are good in the water for a while, but Unistrut does make that stuff in stainless if he is not using it already. If it is PG or HG galvanized/plated stuff you probably should replace down it the road with SS. What he has on it really doesn't look like stainless. Unistrut also makes stainless hardware (nuts, bolts, etc.) for their stainless Unistrut which also would be a good investment. If he is using the PL variety, then it is just oiled surface applied to the raw steel during the rolling process and probably won't last even a year without significant corrosion. Only being a 6", 6 wheel unit, my hubby didn't want corrosion issues and simplicity and low cost was top priority so the complete lack of any framework in the pans was designed out and cheapo water jugs were repurposed as wheel covers. He has a dedicated buffing wheel so that isn't included on his machine. The only frame on his design is two pieces of 80/20 that the pillow blocks mount to. If he was building a big 8" cabber like yours, he probably would have leaned more towards something like you have there. He mentioned that he might like to stack two low grit wheels together like you did. Should be no problem with this using his design as well. Your machine looks like it will be an awesome one
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 15, 2016 10:35:27 GMT -5
The thingy for the wheels was a matter of necessity, due to the wheels having the slots it seemed like an easy fix, I had to drill holes into the hard wheels as they don't have slots for the pins. Ron ND5T My husband always had to fix engineering mistakes and think on the fly for solutions to problems that were not thought about by the engineers when building machines. Every machine his company built was basically a one off or a variation on a more standard base model. He brought those same skills when it comes to the cabbing machine. Looks like you are great at the same thing. You chose the easiest solution by drilling the hole in the hard wheel. Smart. My hubby said he was impressed by your engineering skills.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 15, 2016 10:23:07 GMT -5
It's easier just to replace them. Not much cost and saves lots of time and hassle the big thing....you know for sure the are good. I would respectfully disagree. He has already stated that the bearings are in working condition. I believe it would be way easier to wipe them off, inject new grease and be done. With your solution, an extra expenditure is involved in the purchase of new bearings. Plus, you still need to grease the new bearings too. Grease and rags cost way less.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 14, 2016 15:06:30 GMT -5
Asked on FB and got clean excess grease, regrease with marine grade grease and voila. done. wish me luck Great advice if you first make sure that they are even usable. Check for play and runout. Feel how smoothly the bearings roll in their race by hand. Any roughness and you should toss em. When you regrease, clean off old grease from the outside. Inject new grease until new grease ejects old grease then wipe off old grease again. It is perfectly normal for normal pillow blocks to pass grease past the seals when being filled. If you replace them with sealed pillow blocks, be ready to replace again someday. My course of action if they are not reusable would be to replace them with new pillow blocks that can be greased at regular intervals and then following through on the greasing at regular intervals. Properly greased and installed bearings should last for decades. Unless, lets say, they're made in China. Sealed pillow blocks are great at resisting water and should be used where water is invasive. The only problem with them is that all grease will eventually loose some of its qualities and with noway to replace it with clean new grease, it just gets worse and worse until the bearing fails (usually way before a properly maintained lubricatible bearing would.)
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 14, 2016 14:24:04 GMT -5
Your cab machine looks great, I offset the bearings so I can only tighten 2 wheels with the locking collars at a time. Somehow I surmised that I had to spread out the pillar block bearings, don't really know if it was necessary. Thanks for the input The 1" bearing quality shaft allows for the bearings to be where they are. There is no real vibration from the lack of end bearings or the bearings not being further apart. They are actually 5 3/4" apart. He could have probably put them even closer to each other than they are now but didn't need more shaft with his wheel cover design. I was really surprised that you used the same collar drive screw thingy that my husband was using. Great minds think alike. He just eliminated some of the extra collars and took the bearings completely out of the wet zone.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 13, 2016 22:17:01 GMT -5
Here is the total so far. We don't know what we are doing so we just try to make our rocks shiny, sometimes that equates to just smaller. My husband built a cabber too. Amazingly, he also uses the same collar with a hole tapped for a cut off screw trick that you used. On his machine, he only uses two collars. They drive the two outside wheels. Then, he cut some pvc strips just wide enough to fit in the wheel slots and epoxied them to the pvc spacers between the wheels to drive the other two wheels on the shaft on each side. The strips fit into the wheel slots just like the collar screw does. So, one collar drives three wheels on each side of the cabber. In this way, he made it quick and easy to change wheels without having to unscrew a locking nut on the end of the shaft and could get away with using a straight piece of shaft with no machining needed. He also made the wheel covers out of five gallon water jugs held to the base with velcro. The bearings sit in a completely dry area in between the two wheel covers with the drive pulley between them. Additionally, a removable (from the jug) plastic guard surrounds the shaft and open end where the shaft passes through the jug and assures that no water gets to the bearings. He hung a single piece of denim cloth to cover all three wheels on each side and distribute water across the wheels and prevent over spray. In the picture below you can see my daughter using one side of the cabber. The wheels are off the right side in this pic. The denim is hanging down over all three wheels at once. The water is gravity fed from the same kind of water jug the wheel covers are made from. The waste water runs out the dispenser valves that were made to originally get water from the jug to the cup just below the handles. All he had to do was order some 5/8" rubber hose and stick it in. Each water supply has it's own shutoff/on valve. A hole was drilled in the water reservoir with a funnel inserted for easy refills.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 13, 2016 19:19:51 GMT -5
So I see the debate goes on about pillow blocks and if they need greased. Info from a pillow block manufacturer.Actually, who this is from is an HVAC fan producer who uses several different companies pillow blocks. These instructions apply to all the pillow blocks used in this manufacturer's fans. If you read the charts you can see that bearings Link-Belt® ball bearings - Series 300 SKF ball bearings - SY Sealmaster ball bearings - MP Dodge ball bearings For use on horizontal shaft equipment, (pretty much covers almost all well known pillow block makers) are all used by this company and their instructions are across the board for all makes. Says all of them need initial greasing. Says buyer should actually purge (force out) anything in the bearing and pressure lubricate with fresh grease. Says some grease will flow out when filling bearing. Says complete greasing is assured if grease is worked in on one side of the bearing until grease appears on both sides. The manual states also, " All fan bearings must be re lubricated soon
as they arrive from the factory. To prevent corrosion, all bearings should receive grease and be rotated the first of every month. Turn the wheel by hand while greasing bearings. A clean 1/16" bead of grease must appear on each side of each bearing." Which tells me that grease coming out of the seal is part of the process and is used to tell when the old grease is purged. Note: these particular bearings are used in HVAC fan assemblies as well as many other industrial applications. Most common are the ball bearing types. Also directly from the manual: "If the bearing will be operated at less than 150 RPM, and in dirty conditions, more grease is desirable. The bearing will discharge excess grease through seals after a short period of operation." Says it's ok. All this stuff is written in this instruction manual written by the manufacturer. Basically if it comes with a zert, grease it at regular intervals based on use. Just FYI everyone, the pillow blocks installed on the machines my husband built every day had electrically operated and ladder logic controlled automatic greasing systems with grease pumps and grease lines coming from the pumps to the bearings so they could be greased when needed even if they were not accessible or within easy reach. Circled partially in red in the photo below on the right side of this machine is one of the units installed on a waterjet cutter. Also, hubby positively states that all bearings bought by his employer came ungreased (except for lubricants left over from the bearing assembly process) as ordered. On bearings not accessible, the zerts are thrown away and grease fittings and lines and automatic pumps installed instead. So, obviously, greasing pillow block bearings is very important. Can't we let this subject be done with and agree with at least what a manufacturer says?
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 12, 2016 19:06:54 GMT -5
Just two more questions. What is the advantage (if there is any) of using nickel coated diamond grit as opposed to just plain diamond grit?
Is there anything special I need to do when re surfacing really low grits (ie. 35-100 grit). Use extra epoxy? Use several thin coats? Use more grit? Less grit? Does anyone re do 35 grit wheels? Any knowledge passed this way will be a touchdown.
I am using epoxy 220 and plan on using ten carats (two grams) of grit mixed in for a 6" x 1 1/2" wheel.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 10, 2016 20:59:02 GMT -5
Thanks all. All of your answers are awesome.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 10, 2016 14:34:20 GMT -5
ziggy , I buy from that same guy on eBay. I put 10cts on a 3" x 8" belt. It costs me a whopping $2.80 for diamond & a little bit for the epoxy. I use 30 min stuff so I have time to mix & spread it. Lynn Does the synthetic diamond powder stuff work well? Does it wear out quickly or is it on par with say, natural diamond grit? Never mind. I already ordered some.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 10, 2016 13:26:43 GMT -5
I need to re-diamond a cabbing wheel. Is the synthetic diamond grit on ebay any good for this? link
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 8, 2016 0:36:10 GMT -5
IMG_20161107_145919683 by Eric Irwin, on Flickr This one is also just beautiful. I don't know what this is but the blue is very pretty, and it has mica or something sparkly in it as well. IMG_20161107_145909357 by Eric Irwin, on Flickr This one, honestly, might be my favorite. It has a yellow cast to it, and it sparkles like crazy as you move it around. I don't know what it is, either. If I had to guess I would say they are both some form of aventurine.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 5, 2016 21:19:08 GMT -5
My homemade saw has bearings on both sides of the belts and hence when one of them eventually breaks it would mean a total removal of the arbor just to replace the belt -- except for the magic of link belts which can be built to various lengths and reconnected around such obstacles. I've never bought one (yet) but I will when the time comes (more expensive). I normal applications I like Rockoonz would prefer a normal v belt. Hardware or automotive outlets should meet any need you might have. Quartzite would be nice. I've only been to the rocks extravaganza once, but it was memorable for rocks and being able to see the faces of some of the voices on this forum. I'll have to give it a try if a 50th wedding anniversary trip to Argentina does not interfere. Before you congratulate me I should warn you its all been with the same wife. Some folks have had 4 or 5 spouses by the time they get to 50 years married. Link belts work great. They come in different sizes and profiles. Hubby used to use them as conveyor tracks on glass machines.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 5, 2016 8:08:33 GMT -5
One caution is don't force too much grease into those zerks, a little bit once a week or month is probably better than a bunch at one time that may blow out seals that are there for a purpose. Words of wisdom. Most manufacturers recommend 40 to 50 percent filling is about the right amount of grease unless the bearing is water vulnerable. If exposed to water then you would fill 80 to 90 percent full. The one thing I have a problem with in these directions is how can one tell how full is 40 or 50 percent. My hubby just filled up the bearing until a little tiny bit oozed out. Pillow block bearings normally have metal bearing race protectors and not actual seals. They are meant to let overfilling be compensated for.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 4, 2016 8:25:05 GMT -5
I've never seen a new pillow block come in dry [22+ yrs. sawmill millwright and what I've done at home], if there's any doubt, take the zerk fitting out and have a look down the hole. Perhaps the gentleman who always relubed has a particular preference to a specific lube. Depends on who the manufacturer was and how the bearing was ordered. The last two my hubby bought came with the zerts in a little baggy and with a spec sheet stating they were not factory lubricated and stated what type of grease to use. Hint, if it comes with the zert already in, it is most likely lubed. If you have to install the zert, lube it too. I guarantee, no manufacturer is going to ship lubricated bearings with the zerts not already installed as to do so would allow the possibility of contamination of the grease as well as leakage and possible melt out if for some reason they were allowed to get hot. BTW, in my husbands former job assembling machines, his company (Glassline Inc.) never bought pre lubricated pillow block bearings. The bearings they used sometimes needed a special type of grease, sometimes two different greases were used on the same machine depending on what they did and what conditions they operated under and even sometimes on what the customer wanted. If a machine was shipped without every fitted bearing being lubricated, someone there would lose their job, guaranteed. Then, they would ship the machine and it would run great until the factory millwright (usually down in Mexico) re lubricated with the wrong (and most likely contaminated) type of grease or until it wore out from lack of maintenance. Below is one of the windshield screen printers that my husband specialized in building. This one machine uses at least 40 or 50 different pillow blocks. All needed to be lubed after installation. He started with the frame of the machine supplied by the fab shop and a box full of parts supplied by the machine shop and vendors, and assembly drawings from the engineers. The machine when done had to pass a repeat-ability test where the windshield had to land in the exact same spot on each cycle, which is no small miracle considering that the machine used vacuum cups for holding the glass which was picked up and put down as well as moved horizontally. Windshields are big and heavy. The machine is large enough to fill a large living room. The fact that he bought sealed pillow blocks makes all these technicalities a moot point. They will be fine until they fail. If the bearings he bought were sealed and not able to be lubricated, why did he ask what kind of grease to use?
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