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Post by Peruano on Jul 20, 2019 7:02:06 GMT -5
My instinct is that your best bet on removing all surface remnants of the ca would be with a cab machine. My attempts at filling cracks or pits have worked only when I worked diligently through all of the wheels. I know that I stub with superglue which often leaves a ring of glue on the back of a cab and unless I remove it with the 220 or 280, that ring will persist through the entire vibe tumbling process. So . . . yes polish with the vibe but don't count on it obliterating your work at filling pits. And welcome. Its a good idea but not likely to work.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 13, 2019 20:18:32 GMT -5
Nothing against rotary tumblers but . . . they are slow and folks lose interest. If you preselect your rocks (beach cobble, river cobble, preformed stones) they can be successfully processed in a vibratory tumbler in a week versus months. For the money and as an entry level machine the Raytech Vibe 5 has the durability, capacity, and economy needed. I've run innumerable batches of beach cobble in my Vibe 5 and yes ruined one bowl because I used too large a rock and it became lodged enough to grind a groove, but this could happen to any vibe bowl. There is lots of guidance on this forum, but you have to be careful to distinquish comments related to vibes (fast) and rotary machines (slow). Whatever route you go, its a great hobby with lots of directions it can lead for family interactions and recreation.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 13, 2019 18:48:01 GMT -5
There is lots of material that needs to be backed (reinforced?) or consigned to the scrap pile. Acknowledging that every rock deserves to be saved from obscurity, I'll work on any rock that captures my imagination. Adding culture to the adverse side is a plus.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 12, 2019 17:48:24 GMT -5
Historically, vinyl records were used to back soft, fragile, or fractured stones. The groves worked well with adhesives, and the vinyl was malleable during the sanding process. Since I was slabbing some opalized wood that can fracture when worked, I mounted a number of slabs on a 33 1/3 Vangelis album. I'm calling an example of a fossil record. The cab in the center has been worked, the ones on the black vinyl are dry slabs just off the saw.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 11, 2019 16:26:12 GMT -5
Just to amplify the discussion, I'd be tempted to point out that often agates have a white oxidized layer on the surface that is totally resistant to any acid I've tried. Its oxidized agate and hence tough even to grind off. So, if your white film does not respond to vinegar or muriatic acid it may be something tough enough to stand up to acid of any kind.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 8, 2019 20:17:52 GMT -5
Its wonderful stuff. Each piece is a bit different.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 8, 2019 20:15:07 GMT -5
If was totally space limited, I'd have a machine with an 80, 220 (hard) and 280, 600, 1200, 3000, 14000, and 50000 diamond belts (3M) on an expando. I'm not that limited and don't have that range yet but will have soon once my new shop is built. When you can go to 50,000 on diamond belts you often don't need a polish stage, and sometimes going to 50000 is going to far and 14,000 is enough. Diamond belts are price comparable to hard wheels and treated right last as long. Talk to others for other viewpoints.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 6, 2019 8:33:15 GMT -5
By preselecting rocks that have an appeal in shape and texture, you are well along having specimens to further enhance. I started lapidary with primarily beach cobble (Sonora, Mexico) and found I could start with the vibe rather than having to go through the slower rotary stages. So. . . let the rocks speak to you and go forth and create.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 5, 2019 15:30:57 GMT -5
Maybe I'm being too minimalist, but the $20 LED flexible lamp with a clamp allowing it to be moved around and attached to the hood of the machine available at IKEA or even (gasp) Wallyworld works great for providing spot on light, low electrical use, and minimal heat. When I can go LED, I'll do it.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 3, 2019 7:18:08 GMT -5
As you can see on the chunk you posted, it often has areas that are well formed and others that are softer (crumble). Sometimes the spacing of matrix to fossil shells varies and an apparently solid piece will fragment on the edge during the tumbling process. But usually it takes a nice shine, exits largely intact and if needed you can reshape or cut back a problematic edge. I slab and preform, then tumble polish, and only then often go back to the sander/polisher to address the repair that is often necessary. Have fun. Friends, family, and associates like it.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 1, 2019 12:57:21 GMT -5
You nearly always will see more detail, and a more attractive appearance with a polished surface. Removing scratches eliminates noise, and increases shine, color intensity, and pattern visibility. You can polish one surface, facing. or you can tumble or otherwise polish all surfaces. Normally dino bone is rare enough and hence costly enough that folks slab it to get maximal surface from minimal material.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 1, 2019 10:37:57 GMT -5
In most cases we are lucky to identify dino bone as dino bone. Subsequent, more specific id is usually precluded because bones are incomplete, tumbled, worn, or poorly fossilized. In order to identify a bone (either what type of animal it came from or . . . what type of bone (anatomical part), detailed comparisons of finer structural aspects are needed and those details just don't exist in most dino bone that comes to the hands of lapidary folks. We are receiving a mineralized material with a bone origin, but missing most of its detailed external structure. What we are often interested in is present, i.e. the vacuoles and patterns that from in the bone, sometimes these are visible as contrasting, bright colors making a beautiful abstract pattern appealing in its own rite. Cutting (slabbing) these will show you much more of that detail and reveal how appealing they could be once shaped and polished. I hope this helps you decide what to do with them.
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Post by Peruano on Jun 29, 2019 7:07:11 GMT -5
Yes the wood can be tumbled, or sliced/polished and used in jewelry. The fossils should probably be examined by an experienced rock hound to see if dino bone is involved and how pretty it is. It could be worth a lot if of the correct type.
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Post by Peruano on Jun 29, 2019 7:01:37 GMT -5
The southern half of the island is supposed to be of volcanic origin, whether agates have formed or not is worth exploring. I seem to recall too much red ash (= mud). You have good mail service so rocks will come your way if you seek them.
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Bots!
Jun 25, 2019 20:10:38 GMT -5
via mobile
arghvark likes this
Post by Peruano on Jun 25, 2019 20:10:38 GMT -5
Bots are wonderful I try to get them pretumbled and slice them for instant cabs A great pocket rock as well!
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Post by Peruano on Jun 24, 2019 15:28:26 GMT -5
Welcome and congratulations for living in a great lapidary, and rockhounding focal point. You have lots of resource groups and folks in your area (acknowledging that it is a big area and distances are large) so you should be able to progress in your efforts as fast as you are inclined to do so. I have had only brief exposure to rock hounding in BC but I met many enthusiastic people and saw an equal number of potential sources so would love to find the opportunity to come back and explore. Tell us about your adventures as you explore.
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Post by Peruano on Jun 14, 2019 15:01:41 GMT -5
Taking a different tangent, when I have problems getting rid of tiny scratches it can often be that I think it's close and hence go gently when I return to the wheel when in fact I need to put some pressure on the stone and adequately address the offending scratches. Don't be afraid to adequately work your stone. It helps prevent several returns to the wheels.
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Post by Peruano on Jun 10, 2019 18:38:17 GMT -5
Fire up that saw and start trimming off the part that doesn't excite you. Then face the surface or slab across the agate. Dynamite.
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Post by Peruano on Jun 10, 2019 18:34:48 GMT -5
Nice variety, I think smokey grey is cool.
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Post by Peruano on Jun 8, 2019 13:39:08 GMT -5
Too much water washes the grit to the bottom leading to slowing the process and eroding the bowl in a vibe. Too little water and the system locks up. Use some dawn with the load and it will help keep the grit dispersed and in motion rather than riding in the bottom of the bowl. Like Brylcream, a little dab of water will do ya.
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