stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Sept 2, 2014 23:06:16 GMT -5
Washing machine and dryers "usually" use a 1/3hp 1750rpm (1725 with normal slip loss) they are open frame..washing machine motors "usually" are vertical mounted shaft-wise.. dryers horizontal. Both are continuous duty, but again, most are open frame motors. Furnace blower motors are rated only for being in the air flow...no fans on them! But are *easy* to remove.. usually one screw at the front of the little housing the motor and fan is mounted on and it will "slide" right out... get the corresponding capacitor with the motor. But some blower motors are 220 volt..some are 120volt. Newer energy saving washing machines *may* use a special motor that requires a speed control. Actually it's a DC motor with the speed stuff built into the non-drive end..but does have to have the speed control wires hooked up. Some of the newer outdoor AC compressor units use a similar type motor. Personally I would look for an old outdoor AC unit that has a decent fan motor.. they are sealed and heat resistant...kinda. Old style dryer motors would be good too if the open frame doesn't bother you. Too many washing machine motors need a special relay that handles speeds and *direction of rotation*.
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Aug 22, 2014 8:52:24 GMT -5
Is that a brush type motor? Something is nagging at the back of my mind about the little boss area on the side next to the switch (if so there should be one straight across from that one).. If it is a cleaning of the commutator might help. Or a new set of brushes.
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Aug 7, 2014 23:51:37 GMT -5
Just stickin it outside will cause it to flake with temps/rain/drying. And then that stuff is on/in your ground.. Go buy a cheap can of clear acrylic paint and give it a good heavy coat...runs won't hurt much in this case, but for display it might. The paint won't be as good as a resin coat and won't stand up to rough handling much, but it will encapsulate the fibers (if it is asbestos fibers) and make it somewhat safer to just leave somewhere. I would give it a shot of acrylic paint just for peace of mind.
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Aug 7, 2014 23:22:18 GMT -5
Any way of just wedging the pan w/sand at the edge of the lake and let the waves slowly "pan" for ya...or at least concentrate it somewhat, while you are doing more important stuff like rock huntin?? lol
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Aug 7, 2014 22:57:15 GMT -5
Yes as far as big enough for a 15# capacity..possibly as much as 20-25# total weight.. it's a rolling torque needed and you will be reducing the rpm through pulleys but raising the torque at the drive "axle". Multiple barrels are more useful overall. Several stages at once is possible. Also several sizes are possible.. even to the point of using just one big one to do a rough tumble... Only problem is differing size diameters will make differing rpm's on the barrels unless you only use one pipe/barrel size and just make them longer/shorter to make differing weight sizes.
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Jul 30, 2014 19:42:07 GMT -5
Check pulley setscrew(s). Or possibly pulley center/arms if it's not a solid pulley. Clicking/popping doesn't sound like bearings....they usually make a faster rough gritty buzzing/ringing sound. A crack in the pulley will click/pop. A chip in the pulley will too.
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Jul 28, 2014 21:24:40 GMT -5
Nope not exactly linear all the way from froze to 1000C. Max volume for pure liquid water occurs at 39 degs, too. Obviously ice expands more in volume.. But it really gets excited at boiling temp at 730x (+/-) expansion.
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Jul 28, 2014 20:55:21 GMT -5
Family reunion..everybody does it in the summer. Daddy long legs are one of the most poisonous spiders...they just have very very short fangs. But one large spray can of RealKill will work wonders on reducing next years "Daddy Reunion" attendance ..this years too. They are attracted to the damp places in the ceiling that have water available..and possibly the minerals coming with the water? It doesn't have to be wet.. just barely damp looking..for them to "drink" it. I notice them on my front porch drinking from cat watering slobbers/drips and even her watering pan in hot dry weather. They stink too. More so when squished.
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Jul 28, 2014 20:40:19 GMT -5
600F is just a tad over 1500 psi o.O .. plenty enuff to make a solid rock go BANG with a 10th teaspoon of water tightly contained...at least until the stress goes higher then rock is capable of keeping inside.
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Jul 28, 2014 9:45:06 GMT -5
wow... 600+ psi pressure at 480+F ..I was curious and looked it up in a steam table--- temp vs pressure. That rock was a small bomb.
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Jul 27, 2014 23:44:37 GMT -5
Shellac sticks...it's in the form of a stick...will stick stuff like chrome metal to a slick surface..ie..fiberglass clear coating. I suppose you could wrap a leather around the stick and stone orb together and then shellac both together. But it would not be a clear coat.. But I'm thinking the bond between the stone and shellac will be more then you think. Doping wax won't hold in either really warm weather...or especially cold weather. It would certainly be possible to set the stone in a metal "setting" made on the wooden stick...like a ring setting.
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Jul 27, 2014 22:47:43 GMT -5
Once the veggie oil sees heat much(deep fryers, etc) it's well on it's way to polymerizing the fatty acids...the "sticky" part. It also has a lowered flash/smoke point. It also goes to smellin a bit quicker. It's "freezin" up point (solidifying like lard) raises too. From just less then 25 or so to way above that. It's a losing proposition..virgin veggie oil fares only slightly better. It's the heat developed between the rock and the saw that will do the oil in. I would think fully titrated and washed WVO would suffer the same fate sooner or later. It boils down to the basic difference between a veggie fat (oil) and a petroleum based oil.
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Jul 27, 2014 21:51:08 GMT -5
Had a few campfire rocks explode before.. makes a mess and there's usually scrambling around trying to figure out what happened.. lol I used an old covered roasting pan in the oven when I "cooked" a batch of Chert a few months ago. I brought the oven up to 215-220 for 2+ hours before cranking the heat up another 25 degs er so. It took over 5+ hours for me to finally set the heat up to 525 for a couple of hours. Your rock probably had less then a pinky fingertip sized pocket of water in it....and sealed tight!
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Jul 27, 2014 21:32:48 GMT -5
Dop wax starts melting below 140F...it's soft at barely over 115F. You want a Hoof/Hide Glue.. or a natural Shellac. Shellac (the full bore natual one) is meltable (85C-100C or so) ..but above the ranges of the colored waxes used for Lapidary uses. It's used as a melting range extender for doping waxes. Also it's sticky as heck when melted ..dries fairly hard. it used to be used for attaching fishin pole ferrules and eyes.. Might still find it at WalMart in sporting goods...
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Jul 17, 2014 0:49:53 GMT -5
When I drill holes through a stone for mounting/split rings...or wires. I use a really sharp pointed long taper diamond bit on the slowest setting in a Dremel with a very light pressure/touch. Under water in a shallow dish. When the fine tip just breaks through (very small hole when it just goes thru...maybe 1/4mm or less) I quit drilling from that side and flip the stone and drill from the other side until the hole is even-ish. What little breakout I have is ground away quickly when I drill from the second side. Problem with a drill press is that you can actually be exerting quite a bit of pressure on the drill stem with *very* little pressure on the operating arm/lever through the rack and pinion raising/lowering gears.
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Jul 12, 2014 11:31:11 GMT -5
No, they don't have a web site..it's called the "Ozark Trade Center" stick that and "+ greenbrier, ar." into a search engine and you will get the address and phone number. It's about 5 miles north of Greenbrier, Ar....or 3 miles south of Damascus, Ar.. They "used" to ship stuff here and there...don't know about now though. They are one of the cheapest blades I have ever seen... PitBull brand. Also on Amazon, Ebay. I hope they get some more in though (or brought some more out--they buy them by the big box)... I only left one hanging on the peg when I bought 7 er 8 of them few months ago.
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Jul 10, 2014 22:17:59 GMT -5
Poured babbitts are old technology. But still used in MODERN equipment. It's capable of extremely close tolerance clearances, with a very wide support areas, supporting humongous loads with the right babbitt material. And I figure there's a machine shop within 50 miles or so of where you live that might still do babbitt bearings...maybe. As far as blowing up outhouses...or tipping them over..or farm wagons/manure spreaders on the roof.... first thing...how long is the statute of limitations for that?
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Jul 10, 2014 18:08:51 GMT -5
Don is very correct...babbitt bearings. More then likely poured. Most were. IF....big IF! cuz it it was poured right it's stuck very well.. the bottom bearing shell will lift--going at it from both ends--(try using air pressure first) you could put a 5-10 thousandths thick piece of brass/copper shim stock under the bearing and ream it back to size after installing the top part. (Just to keep it going until you can find a place to rework it) I've never taken a rind out of an engine myself...but have heard tales from during the depression of folks taking an old bacon rind out and leaving it in the sunlight for a few days to toughen up and then cutting it to shape and using that to get by when $$ and during WWII no parts were available to fix their old jalopy's rod bearings. If you try to use lead solder to put a thin coating on that...it will end up in a puddle along with the bearing babbitt too...out of the shell! Reguardless what ya do...that shaft will need a lick or two of medium to very fine stages of emery cloth to clean it....but NEVER use an abrasive on the babbitt material...it will embed in the soft babbitt. You have to ream or burnish that stuff.
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Jul 9, 2014 8:43:36 GMT -5
They gave their all so we could have Dino bone, and fossils. Thanks guys. Probably for the best though, I can just see me confronting a mega-ton 'saur eating my Azaleas with my 410 and #9 shot.
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Jul 9, 2014 8:32:32 GMT -5
Howdy and welcome from Arkansas. No tumbler to clean/derust quartz-ish stones or points with yet?..no problem. Use a *plastic* Coffee can and lid.. rocks in water to barely cover..add 3 tbsp borax (helps remove dirt only)...or even better.. use "Zud" (if ya can find it in cleaning section of home center/walmart.etc)...it has Oxalic acid in it. Tape lid on well and block it firmly in trunk of car or bed of pick-up..drive around on your normal trips for a few days to a week...remove stones and rinse well. Stones will be cleaner (borax)..de-rusted (Zud cleans too), but might take a few days more with another dose of Zud to get more rust out/off. Zud makes a weak, but safe solution of Oxalic acid when mixed with water. Oxalic Acid loves to eat rust, and iron too! Not so sure about using Zud and Borax together...might not be advisable? A simple "shaken...not stirred" (like a 007 Martini) cleaning approach. Warning! iron bearing rocks WILL dissolve and pit badly in Zud!
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