This is why you do not leave your saw running unattended.

Double ouch!  

I had a rock glued to a piece of 2x2 that some how jammed up. I guess my clamp wasn’t enough as the 2x2 was shifted to an angle. It was the blade that came with saw and I’ve cut a bunch of stuff with it and who knows how many cuts were done on it before me so I definitely got my money’s worth out of it. Weird though cuz I did check the rock, like I always do, and it was in there firmly…. Or so I thought.

I have to chuckle at "offda" (sometimes also spelled oof-da, oofda, oofala, oof-dah, oofdah, huffda, uff-da, uffda, uff-dah, ufda, ufdah, or uf daa). My mother's family was of Scandinavian descent living in Montana...so this was a very common expression in our household when I was younger. It still invades my vocabulary...more often than I'd like. When I was in the Army and living down South for a bit, I still remember the quizzical expression on people's faces when I'd utter that one!  LOL

Try to straiten it. I did mine and almost got it but yours is not as bad as mine was. I think you may pull it off.

            

I think that if you're careful you can probably get it straight enough to use as a "chunker blade" for operations where a few blade marks don't matter.
As for glue ups, when you use boards or turn a rock and clamp the cut surfaces, keep in mind that you only have 2 points of contact, even though they're big points, and you really need 3 solid points of contact in the vice. When clamping 2x boards I have an old cut-off clamped in the back end to keep the jaws parallel, and I slip a small toothpick sized piece of "crush wood" between the moving vice jaw and board right at the blade end. The crush wood created the 3rd point of contact.
When clamped pull vigorously to check for wiggles, if there is even the slightest movement don't cut until you eliminate it.

I give everything a real hard pull from different angles if possible. I had one pop right out the other night. Finally decided that I will wait until nice weather and cut it by hand outside. I figured out that the problem with my new saw was that the new belt was just a little loose after it wore in and was not allowing the blade to spin fast enough to cut to match (or exceed) the feed rate. Now that I tightened the belt a bit it cuts better but I am still wary of turning my back on it.

Quartzilla, I think you might put that blade in a vice and get most of the bend out and then use a metal hammer(ball peen) for the rest by working on a heavy metal plate or surface.

Another trick for clamping in a saw vise is using a dead blow hammer. I have an Estwing with red plastic on one side and yellow on the the other side.

When I think I’m ready to start slabbing, I use the hammer to tap on the rock and the vise. Next I’ll tighten the vise more and repeat. I can usually get a couple more turns on the tightening knob by doing this.

I would definitely try to straighten it. There’s a lot of diamond left on the blade. Avoid hammering on the sintered rim. A propane torch might help but could take the temper out of the core steel.

Any cracks forming during straightening would probably make me toss it or cut the sintered part off to use as hand tools.