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Post by Bejewelme on Feb 16, 2009 16:53:32 GMT -5
HPD: Great post! I wondered since I got my machine about cleaning out the pans before moving to the next grit. I also thought that doing say agate and opals, I wondered if just the agate snot would harm the opals, this answered my question.
Tony needs his 80 grit reurbished so I am going to suggest he view this, thanks Amber
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Post by Tonyterner on Feb 16, 2009 21:49:47 GMT -5
I like this idea. I think I'm going to try it on my 400 grit belt. Its pretty worn out and a new one would be at least $85. This would be much cheaper, Thanks for posting this.
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agatemaggot
Cave Dweller
Member since August 2006
Posts: 2,195
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Post by agatemaggot on Feb 17, 2009 22:48:58 GMT -5
Rigged an old rotisserie motor with a piece of water pipe on it to turn custom fishing rods while the epoxy sat up without running. I bet a similar set up would work for this project also.
IF THE WEATHER EVER WARMS UP, I will be out diggin in the garage . If the thickness of your epoxy isn't to your liking , most 2 part types can be thinned with a small amount of slow dry Lacquer thinner. Unused epoxy can be stored in your freezer for extended periods of time ( several months ) and then thawed and thinned with no ill effects !
NO I am not cheap, just frugal, Diamond is rather pricey !
Almost forgot ----- CAP THE CONTAINER !!!
A lot of women get excited when they open the freezer and are met with a rush of thinner and Epoxy fumes. YUP YUP been there ect. ect.
Harley
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cooknet
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2009
Posts: 169
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Post by cooknet on Feb 24, 2009 18:56:54 GMT -5
This is a great post, thank you akansan for referring me to this! One question I have is that this process here is described for refurbishing "diamond wheels", but what about the disk type wheels for a "flat lap", would this procedure work similarly to the "verticle wheel" type of wheels you guys are using? Also, is this method strictly for "refinishing" a diamond wheel, or can it also be used to "create one" from scratch? What would happen if you were to simply use an old spent 8" diamond saw blade (or any "other" round steel, wood or glass disk for that matter) and coat one side of the blade with this mixture, would it create a "suitible" flat lap wheel? Could you even "recoat" a "grinding wheel" with this diamond mixture technique? Sorry if these questions sound as if they have "obvious" answers, I'm a real "newbie", and I"m currently building a "flat lap", for which I'll have to eventually "purchase" the wheels for, and since I have all the ingredients for a "makeshift" wheel, why not make some wheels if it "is" possible since I have the grit, epoxy, and round steel disks, it sure would save some money if it was possible! I could at least "create" the flat lap diamond wheels I happen to have the grit for already, and purchase the rest of the ones I need. Also, is this proceedure strictly used for "diamond wheel" resurfacing, or can it be used with a "polishing compound" as well? Thanks in advance for your answers and for putting up with a newbie! Chris
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highplainsdrifter
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since December 2008
Posts: 1,266
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Post by highplainsdrifter on Feb 27, 2009 23:08:50 GMT -5
One question I have is that this process here is described for refurbishing "diamond wheels", but what about the disk type wheels for a "flat lap", would this procedure work similarly to the "verticle wheel" type of wheels you guys are using? Chris This technique should work on just about any surface as long as it's cleaned well. I've used it on spent silicon carbide belts with good success. The recent slabs I've been posting are all sanded and polished with these.
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joemojave
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since October 2009
Posts: 133
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Post by joemojave on Oct 27, 2009 15:41:35 GMT -5
I am thinking about making copper or zinc cabbing wheels that can be charged with diamond. Pretty expensive to make, but easy to recharge with diamond and doesnt use much grit at all.
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,581
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Post by drjo on Oct 27, 2009 17:43:43 GMT -5
Wheels or flat laps?
Wheels could be very interesting.
Do you work with metals?
Dr Joe
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Post by phil on Dec 23, 2009 15:37:11 GMT -5
Hi. Now that a year has passed, can you give us an update on how well they held up, etc? Thanks! Phil
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highplainsdrifter
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since December 2008
Posts: 1,266
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Post by highplainsdrifter on Jan 21, 2010 16:44:06 GMT -5
My sanding wheels are holding up OK. They are starting to wear, but I cut a lot of cabs. I would say they lasted and cut the same as a new Nova wheel. My 600 is still working like a champ. I'll be refurbishing the sanding wheels again soon.
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RedwoodRocks
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since March 2003
Posts: 762
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Post by RedwoodRocks on Apr 30, 2010 18:35:57 GMT -5
I guess I better fess up. I have re-furbished my Nova Wheels using the same method described by HPD. The re-furbished wheels have held up pretty well. I am guessing that I used the wheels for more than a year (I am not a heavy use cabber, at least I don't think so). I have recently re-re-furbished the 280 and the 600 grit wheels.
I use about 5 carats of powder and have learned to apply thin and even coats. I don't take the wheels off the Genie.
I have found that: 1). Applying thin coats is the key. You may have to re-coat more frequently, but you don't have to worry about spinning the wheels as the epoxy dries as frequently, if at all.
2). Apply even coats - having a bumpy wheel is like driving down a bumpy road - very annoying.
On the plus side, re-furbishing the wheels costs about $10 each compared to the cost a new Nova wheel. I figured if I screwed up the Nova wheel, I could alway buy new ones (yes, I am frugal).
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meta7
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since June 2010
Posts: 164
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Post by meta7 on Sept 26, 2010 17:34:57 GMT -5
In the very first post on this subject it is stated: 3. 5-10 carats Diamond Powder - Ni plated for lower grits (eBay; $20 for 25 carats) Does that mean Nickel plated and how do you know if it is? I have been looking on eBay for some diamond powder in the vicinity of 100 mesh. Also, what is considered lower grits? <= 600 mesh? Also, for the lower grits, do you have to use more powder than for the higher grits because each diamond weighs a lot more and so there will not be that many diamonds on the wheel if you use the same amount of powder? Thanks, Dave
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marinedad
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since December 2010
Posts: 813
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Post by marinedad on Jan 20, 2011 20:45:00 GMT -5
is there a big difference between real diamond powder and manufactured diamond powder used for recoating wheels?
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
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Member since May 2008
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Post by drjo on Jan 20, 2011 21:45:30 GMT -5
Not for our purposes and manufactured diamond powder is usually less expensive.
Dr Joe
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 21, 2011 9:11:18 GMT -5
Marine Dad, the argument goes like this. The natural diamond guys say their stuff cuts better, lasts longer. The synthetic guys say since their product is manufactured the particle size is more consistent. You would have to try both to know if it makes a difference but I think Dr. Joe is probably right.
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Post by fishenman on Jan 21, 2011 12:25:42 GMT -5
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
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Post by zarguy on Feb 5, 2011 14:48:58 GMT -5
Jadecarver.com has the best price I've found - 0.40 per carat, but requires a 100 ct minimum order - $40. You can order different grits to make the 100 ct minimum.
He doesn't have as many grits as the seller above. I used 300 grit to refurb my 280 grit wheel.
He doesn't list all of the grits he has & his prices have changed, so you'll need to email or call him.
Lynn (edit 11.5.17) I've found much cheaper prices on eBay - .28 (that's 28 cents) per carat or less.
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Feb 5, 2011 14:58:30 GMT -5
I've just refurbed 2 wheels - a 300 grit last Oct & a 600 grit a couple of weeks ago. I used the Linear Polyurethane that Woody recommended.
The LP is very hard. I'm not sure it's wearing down & exposing new diamonds. In fact, it may be glazing over the diamonds. It does remove scratches from the previous wheel, but it's not as aggressive as when I first refurbed it yet there's still a lot of it left on the wheel.
Next time, I'd like to try something else. I bought some epoxy, but didn't try it because I expect that it will be pretty hard as well. I think what Diamond Pacific & other companies use is more rubbery & wears down over time (Duh!).
Does anybody have a suggestion for something other than epoxy or LP that would wear down quicker, but not too quick?
I wonder if you could mix in some powdered rubber? Any ideas? Lynn
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stefan
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,113
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Post by stefan on Feb 15, 2011 20:32:03 GMT -5
Looks like I'm gonna have to try this with some carbide belts.
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shermt
off to a rocking start
Member since August 2010
Posts: 3
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Post by shermt on Mar 14, 2011 21:19:42 GMT -5
what is the source of diamond powder? What kind of glue is used?
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
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Member since May 2008
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Post by drjo on Mar 22, 2011 4:26:56 GMT -5
Don't take this the wrong way...but did you read the thread?
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