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Post by phil on Mar 22, 2011 16:42:27 GMT -5
Has anyone tried using the liquid rubber that is sold for tool handles instead of the epoxy? Or has anyone tried using that liquid electrical tape?
It's now been several years since this thread was started, has anyone found any other improvements, hazards, problems, etc? Any updates to report anyone? A few folks said they were going to try refurbing their hard wheels. Any success or reports on whether it worked or not?
Reason I ask is I recently replaced both my galaxy and Nova wheels and as a result have some old worn out ones of each that I could refurb now and put away to save $$ when the time comes. I'd like to do it right using the latest info.
Thanks!
Phil
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OPCRSJ
starting to shine!
Member since January 2007
Posts: 27
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Post by OPCRSJ on May 17, 2011 20:49:49 GMT -5
Hey everybody! How's tricks?
I had a pile of used nova wheels laying around from both the Titans and the Genie and was ready to take them to a show and dump them for $15 or $20 each (They still had some life left in them, but I need to have "HOT" Wheels that will cut quick).
Anyways, for once I'm glad I am a packrat and just kept hanging on to them, thanks to HDP!!!
What a great post. The original technique seems to be working great on the two wheels I played with and am getting ready to line 'em up!
I saw Lynn's 10-wheeled machine and now the gears are cranking with all these wheels I'm going to redo. Just gotta get some more diamond this week or next.
A quick suggestion on the Acetone:
ACE HARDWARE
LOWE'S
HOME DEPOT
Just go to the paint thinner, alcohol, benzene section. They sell Acetone in 1 gallon cans for between $19.00 and $22.50. It's also 100% Acetone where nail polish remover is usually only between 10% and 17% Acetone. More bang for your buck there!
I even use it on porous rough after slabbing (i.e. Imperial Jasper). Put some in a shallow pan and soak it for 10 - 15 minutes. Gets ALL the oil out - fast!!! Just don't forget to cover the pan (100% evaporates quickly!) or to cap that gallon can up (same reason) and be SURE to use it in a well-ventilated area.
Well, working on trying to design the perfect split nut for my saw feeds. Gotta run!
Take care all and see you at the shows this summer!!!
Best regards;
George
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Sept 6, 2011 23:05:50 GMT -5
I just refurbed a 6" 300 grit & a 600 grit Chinese Nova. I put 23 carats on the 300 & 22 on the 600. That's a lot more than any new wheel has. I used linear polyurethane as suggested by Woody. The 300 is OK, but the 600 seems like the diamonds are locked inside the urethane & not able to do their job. I even hold a 100 grit hard diamond wheel up against the surface of the 600 to wear down the surface & expose fresh diamond, but the wheel doesn't cut like it should. I'd sure like to find a better goop to suspend the diamonds in.
George, I just finished a 2 sided cab of Royal Sahara Jasper I bought from Janet last Jan in Quartzite. It's awesome. I'll try to post pictures if it doesn't sell before I get around to taking them.
Lynn
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OPCRSJ
starting to shine!
Member since January 2007
Posts: 27
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Post by OPCRSJ on Nov 15, 2011 13:03:25 GMT -5
HI LYNN!
Keep some of those goodies and bring them down to Quartzsite this year. We will be at Desert Gardens again (same place) and would LOVE to see them in person!
George
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 16, 2011 10:42:04 GMT -5
Where in Desert Gardens? We will be in G 19 & 20.
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gerard
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since April 2011
Posts: 218
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Post by gerard on Nov 16, 2011 11:37:37 GMT -5
OK does anyone have a success story on refurbishing and what "goop" did yoou use?
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 19, 2011 23:04:50 GMT -5
John, The Royal Sahara Jasper people (George & Janet) were at the west edge of Desert Gardens, right about in the middle - just a couple of rows from where you were last year.
Lynn
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 20, 2011 20:47:37 GMT -5
Thanks, I remember seeing the Royal Sahara banner and thought it must be them. I'll be one row closer but at opposite end next year.
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hh5
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since January 2012
Posts: 136
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Post by hh5 on Feb 26, 2012 14:01:37 GMT -5
Great post,
I have been using this method since finding this post a couple years ago.
It really works great IMHO.
I am posting because I had a couple wheels that did not turn out so well,
slow cutting to no cutting.
The problem turned out to be that I used "Friable" diamond on the wheels that did not cut right. I recoated them with non friable diamond and they cut great, so it makes a difference.
Seems to me the best diamond is the Nickel coated.
I use the epoxy 220 with no problems.
Thanks
Harold
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Post by mohs on Feb 26, 2012 14:48:43 GMT -5
I suggest using million dollar a caret pink diamond grit Ha Ha
MOSTLY
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Mar 19, 2012 16:10:34 GMT -5
Harold,
When I buy diamond powder, I don't see the terms friable or non-friable used. Where should I buy my diamond powder?
Lynn
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Apr 17, 2012 21:43:34 GMT -5
I wasn't happy with the linear polyurethane that Woody suggested. Read my previous comments about that. Harold suggested Epoxy 220. Last week I coated 2 Nova wheels & 1 8x3 belt using Epoxy 220 & 300 & 600 synthetic diamond powder that I bought on eBay. I'm very pleased with the results. It's only been a few days, but I don't see the glazing over that I saw with the linear polyurethane. I coated another 8x3 belt, but used epoxy from Ace Hardware. It seems just as good as the Epoxy 220, which I can't buy locally & have to pay to have shipped. Mixing epoxy & 600 grit diamond powder on glass. I used about a 3" long bead of each epoxy component.  Initial spreading  More spreading  Final spread. I never got it completely even, but it still works. This is a much thinner coating than I used with the linear polyurethane.  Please add your comments. It's great to hear everyone's success & failures stories. Lynn |
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hh5
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since January 2012
Posts: 136
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Post by hh5 on May 6, 2012 23:58:26 GMT -5
I am also a faceter so when I buy diamond powder I need to be sure it is very well graded. The best source I have found for non-friable diamond powder is www.lightninglap.com/He sells many different grits starting at 325 to 100,000 and sells in 10,25,50 and 100 carat lots at 38 cent a carat the last time I checked. I have no affiliation other than a satisfied customer who has used many of his products. Harold |
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Post by phil on May 7, 2012 11:20:20 GMT -5
Zarguy,
What kind of belts are you coating? Old silicone carbide belts or worn out diamond cloth belts?
Thanks!
Phil
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on May 7, 2012 23:30:01 GMT -5
Harold - Please explain what the difference between friable & non-friable is.
I resurface used silicon (not silicone. That's rubber) carbide belts. I've only done 300 & 600 so far. I'm not sure what I'll do for finer grits which have no SiC equivalent.
Lynn
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Post by phil on May 9, 2012 21:41:39 GMT -5
Lynn,
Thanks.
If I've got it right, friable means that rather than get rounded and "dull", the diamond will break down into smaller pieces. Non-friable means it won't break down and will stay basically the same size.
Phil
and the diamond/Silica carbide equivalents from Eastwind Abrasives.
60 mesh (250 micron)
80 mesh (200 micron)
120 mesh (125 micron)
220 mesh (90 micron)
325 mesh (50 micron)
400 mesh (45 micron)
600 mesh (30 micron)
800 mesh (25 micron)
1,200 mesh (15 micron)
1,800 mesh (9 micron)
3,000 mesh (6 micron)
8,000 mesh (3 micron)
14,000 mesh (1 micron)
50,000 mesh (1/2 micron)
100,000 mesh (1/4 micron)
200,000 mesh (1/8 micron)
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Saskrock
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2007
Posts: 1,852
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Post by Saskrock on May 12, 2012 0:15:43 GMT -5
Does anyone know how it turned out on hard wheels?
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Jun 12, 2012 23:43:51 GMT -5
I haven't done & don't plan to do a hard diamond wheel. It's hard to get a perfectly flat surface, which is OK with a Nova or expando drum since it flexes with pressure. I don't know what it would be like to have an uneven surface on a wheel with no "give".
I recently bought a sintered wheel at about 4 times the price of a plated hard wheel. I expect tot get 5-10 years out of it & I cut a lot of cabs.
EDIT 10/2021: I've been using my sintered 60 grit wheel for 9 years now. It started with a 5mm thick layer of diamond & bronze. I think there's about 4.5mm left!
Lynn
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Post by kap on Jun 30, 2012 15:44:34 GMT -5
I got my Diamond powder and epoxy but when I checked the supplier sent 330 instead of 220. Will the 330 work or do I need to use the 220?
Keith
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Post by phil on Jul 1, 2012 17:02:42 GMT -5
330 just takes a little longer than 220.
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