Tommy
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Post by Tommy on Mar 15, 2014 17:12:39 GMT -5
Has anyone had one of their refurbished wheels come apart on them like this? For some reason the epoxy didn't bite into the surface well enough. While it was working it worked incredibly well - produced about seven awesome cabs and had me so happy I was planning which wheel to refurbish next.  |
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milto
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since January 2010
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Post by milto on Mar 15, 2014 21:15:18 GMT -5
Tommy....IMHO it looks extremely heavy (thick) application. I try to have the epoxy/diamond just thick enough to not run and then apply as thin as possible, it only has to be afew microns thick to expose the diamond. This seems to work for me. They last over a year and I do about 10 cabs a week.
milto
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Tommy
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Member since January 2013
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Post by Tommy on Mar 15, 2014 22:06:23 GMT -5
Yeah it's pretty thick...if a little bit is good a whole lot is better right? haha. I'm wondering if it's because I used an epoxy from my local hardware store instead of 220. Epoxy is epoxy right?
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Post by kap on Mar 16, 2014 8:26:18 GMT -5
I only use 220 or 330 epoxy and put mine on fairly thick with extra diamond and never had a problem. Ether the epoxy was the problem or the wheel still needed a little more cleaning since it looks like it never stuck.
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milto
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since January 2010
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Post by milto on Mar 16, 2014 9:21:06 GMT -5
Tommy, I have used both Hrdwr and 220/330 and found no difference, did use Gorilla glue epoxy.The difference between thick and thin in my experience if you have a bad spot with thin it usually only shows up as a pin hole, thick....your picture.I have cleaned bad spots with acetone and mixed up a reqular mixture of epoxy and repaired bad spots but rather tricky, I did not add diamond to repair. Works 50% of the time, really have nothing to lose.Good luck and there never seems to be a perfect way as each wheel reacts different. This makes JBros method impressive as I have not had a bad wheel from them.
milto
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zarguy
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Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
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Post by zarguy on Mar 18, 2014 0:34:04 GMT -5
Tommy, If that wheel that's peeling was done by a commercial service, let them know & perhaps they'll redo it for free. It shouldn't de-laminate if it is cleaned well.
Lynn
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Post by phil on May 12, 2014 21:47:39 GMT -5
Has anyone had one of their refurbished wheels come apart on them like this? For some reason the epoxy didn't bite into the surface well enough. While it was working it worked incredibly well - produced about seven awesome cabs and had me so happy I was planning which wheel to refurbish next. How well did you clean the wheel before refurbing? The slightest dirt, oil, etc will cause exactly what you've posted. Scrape off all that will come off, clean with acetone, then either store in plastic baggie or re-surface as soon as totally dry..... Totally! |
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mossyrockhound
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Post by mossyrockhound on Nov 18, 2015 18:05:08 GMT -5
Just reporting in. I resurfaced my Genie (Nova) wheels back in January 2009. They finally "wore out" (after about 6 3/4 years) so I resurfaced them using the same method. The only difference is this time I left the wheels on the arbors. They are working great - again!
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hh5
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Member since January 2012
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Post by hh5 on Sept 1, 2016 0:35:40 GMT -5
Wow, I forgot all about this thread.
Great to read that many have had success with recoating
(at least soft wheels and belts) their wheels.
I just ruined 4 belts and had to go to my backup belts while I waited to get new diamond belts
from Johnson Bros. My backup belts are the belts I resurfaced back in 2012, I had forgotten how well
they cut. I received my new belts 3 weeks ago but still haven't put them on because my resurfaced belts are cutting so well.
I am thinking of doing a 220 grit with several thin layers and putting on 25ct.
Has anyone tried really loading these wheels with grit and if so what were your results?
Thanks
Harold
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zarguy
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Post by zarguy on Sept 1, 2016 9:52:57 GMT -5
hh5 When I first started, I put 15 cts on a 3" wide, 8" diameter belt. I've backed off to 10 cts. It seems there needs to be some space between grit particles. I'm not sure what size wheels you're going to re-coat, but 25 may be excessive. Lynn
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hh5
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since January 2012
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Post by hh5 on Sept 1, 2016 20:12:36 GMT -5
Hi Zarguy, good to see you.
I will be doing 3x8 belts.
How did your 15 ct. belt cut and what grit were you using?
Did you do several coats?
How have your newer recoats worked?
Harold
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zarguy
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Post by zarguy on Sept 2, 2016 21:58:57 GMT -5
I've been re-coating diamond belts for about 6 years now. I do 300, 600, 1200, & 3,000 grit. It all goes on in one coat. I mix the epoxy with a putty knife on a sheet of glass, add the diamond powder, continue mixing & then spread it on the belt while its mounted on the drum. I use 30 min epoxy. I've been using Bob Smith Industries 30-Min Slow Cure epoxy. About $16 for a 9 oz mix. I made the switch from 15 to 10 carats long ago. From what I remember, 10 carats seems to cut better than 15. Diamond is pretty cheap, so do some experimenting to see what works best for you. I've been paying $28 for 100 carats of diamond powder on ebay. Lynn edit 11.09.17 I found the BSI 30 min 9oz. epoxy for $13.39 here: modelmerchants.com/shop/bob-smith-slow-cure-30-minute-epoxy/?attribute_pa_size=9-oz&gclid=Cj0KCQiAlpDQBRDmARIsAAW6-DNEzK5r0r-jDcP-nwiO88Br9mHyucYE1sJsmWWclPVEp7rS1A0zG5oaAkzfEALw_wcBEDIT 10/2021: The above link is dead, but I'm sure you can find this epoxy or similar other places.  |
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zapins
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Post by zapins on Nov 3, 2017 23:34:33 GMT -5
So re-coating will last... years???
Hmm... I think I'll be machining myself some wheels and building myself a cabber over Christmas time then. I won't need to buy a pre-made diamond wheel if coating does the job just as well.
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lapchuck22
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Post by lapchuck22 on Nov 5, 2017 19:24:24 GMT -5
I like this idea. I think I'm going to try it on my 400 grit belt. Its pretty worn out and a new one would be at least $85. This would be much cheaper, Thanks for posting this. The Nova wheel is Plastic Center normally 1 inch dia, Hole. Than Foam Rubber for softness and than Standing Belt with Diamonds or Silica clothe roll. This Clothe is removeable and can be replaced with standard Clothe backed grits of your choice with out all the chemicals. You may have to ad a little extra such as DUCK tap to the wheel before slidding New paper roll on OR you can make your own NEW by buying Rolls of needed grit paper and cut to length and glue together using Hot Seal iron on LIKE used to repair Bluejeans . Heat the paper back with iron than apply new paper and than under side get the Patch ,slide over or mount before , Simple fix. Cost soooo cheap
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ampeg
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Post by ampeg on Sept 9, 2018 0:36:32 GMT -5
Lynn gave me the idea that a flat lap disc could be recoated, and having read this thread,
I think I'm going to try it------8" 220 grit (purple) Ameritool disc.
What I'm trying to figure out is how many carats of diamond 220 grit should be mixed with the epoxy
for an 8" diameter disc-----most of the info in this most excellent thread is for wheels or belts,
so I've got to try to figure out a way to calculate this correctly.
Any ideas?
ampeg
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Post by opalpyrexia on Sept 12, 2018 9:41:12 GMT -5
What I'm trying to figure out is how many carats of diamond 220 grit should be mixed with the epoxy for an 8" diameter disc-----most of the info in this most excellent thread is for wheels or belts, so I've got to try to figure out a way to calculate this correctly. The surface area of a 6" Genie Nova wheel can be calculated by pi times the diameter times the width: Area = 3.1416 x 6 x 1.5 So the area of the wheel is approximately 28 square inches. The area of an 8" disk is pi times the radius squared, or:
Area = 3.1416 x 16 which yields a disk area of approximately 50 square inches, or about 1.8 times as much surface area as a Genie Nova wheel. Assuming 5-10 carats of diamond for a 6" Genie wheel, 1.8 times as much diamond would be 9-18 carats. But the center region of a disk doesn't really get any use, so why coat it? You could cut that amount a bit if you don't coat the very center of the disk. |
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willie
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Post by willie on Apr 17, 2019 20:39:43 GMT -5
Might try UV cure epoxy, neat thing about it is you can mix your grits and store left over for next layer without it firing off. It will not set until U.V light is applied.
One poster asked if all epoxy was the same, No in fact there is a very wide scale of hardness and flexibility.
Also in it's reaction to heat, cold, and water.
My dad worked for a fiberglass pipe company for years.
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zarguy
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Post by zarguy on Nov 12, 2021 15:47:56 GMT -5
I've been re-coating diamond belts for about 10 years now.
I'm mostly pleased with the results, but the epoxy makes a slick, hard surface compared to the slightly rubbery coating of commercial wheels.
Has anyone tried adding pulverized rubber to the mix? Or something other than epoxy? Something with more flexibility?
If so, I'd love to hear about your experience.
Lynn
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